vshelnutt

okay so I just went to the range yesterday and fired off another 100 rounds. I was able to get the bullet holes close enough to where they were basicly touching eachother at 25 yards on a few of my groups. so I decide to put my rifle into the case so I can move over to the 100yd bench and as im doing this, the scope bumps into the case and falls off because the screws had come loose after shooting 60 rounds. I really cant reccomend the BSA RGB dot scope to anyone at any price. also, something seems to have shaken loose(or who knows what) inside of the scope and the dot will only stay on if

so i just converted my saiga 7.62x39 and now that the rear sight i closer to my eyes, i notice how crappy it is. the spcae between the front post and the two sides on the rear leaf is huge. what are some options for replacing the sight to fix this problem? information on this subject seems a little scarce compared to most other topics.

I don't have the targets anymore but I have 1000 rounds of ammo coming in tomorrow or the next day. I will go to the range and post targets shot with both the utg and the saiga foregrip. I do notice that the saiga factory foregrip gently slides on and the only part that screws on is screwed into the receiver, never coming into contact with the barrel. the utg is more of a clamp on design and I've actually noted a mark on the bottom of the barrel where it comes into contact with it near the receiver. to me this indicates a stress point that wasn't there before...we'll see once i get to the rang

thanks buzz that is some useful information that I had never come across before. So based on what you're telling me I have narrowed it down to the firing pin hole, which has a shit load of oil in it due to how I was "cleaning" it before. I'm going to try to remove the pin a clean all that out of there with a pipe cleaner and a q-tip. I could also be my quadrail. it is a UTG and it mounts onto the rifle using a top and bottom piece that screws together in 4 places using allen screws. the mounting system seems to have rails that prevent the screws from being overtightened, but I'm not sure h

yes there is oil in the firing pin hole as I oiled it the first and second time after cleaning it. I actually oiled the shit out of it with CLP because i figured the spray would be the only way to blast out any fouling that may have gotten inside. I wasn't aware that this couild affect accuracy?...should I take it to the shop I work at and blow it out with an airhose? I am shooting corrosive yugo ammo so I was afraid that if I didn't get every nook and cranny that rust would develop. how do you normally clean inside the firing pin hole? the handguard is a quadrail and I am using a ver

I just got back from testing out my rifle for the first time after i did the conversion and installed my red dot. my groups were HORRIBLE. out of 150 rounds I was barely managing to even hit the target. Im not really sure what the problem is. Back when I first got the gun I shot it at my buddies house in the "sporter" configuration and I was having no problem hitting football helmets with iron sights at about 50-100yards. even after getting frustrated with the scope, I tried iron sights and they didn't work much better. I'm not really sure what is wrong, but I am very disappointed. at this

okay after exploring various options the best thing i could come up with was to take the dremel to the hex screw, which is what it did. cycles like a swiss clock now. its amazing what grinding off a few millimeters will do. this must be something really rare because i looked all over the internet and couldnt find anything about the bullet guide screw sitting too high.

yes the screw is slightly off to the right, but I checked it is definately seated all the way into the part where the circle is cut out for the screw to sit. I put the factory clip into the reciever and when i looked, i noticed that the bullet guide sits about 1/32nd-1/16th of an inch higher than the plastic bullet guide inside the factory mag. I DID also notice that the guide is cut a little differently than others i have seen. im going to try and find a picture of a guide like mine...I'm starting to wonder if maybe removing the guide and using just the screw would feed reliably... t

okay I've been looking at it for a while now and I'm almost positive the problem is that when the bolt turns to lock up, it is coming into contact with the bullet guide/hex screw. so now I'm guessing that I need to file/grind this bullet guide down so that it sits low enough to clear the bolt when it is locking up...has anyone had this problem before? would you reccomend either grinding the part that the bolt is hitting, or the entire backside of the guide so that the rough side that I grind doesnt come into contact with the bullets?

i got it from carolina shoothers supply. everything looks good to me as far as installation. the hole is just slightly off center, but its close enough so that the hex screw seats al the way down into the guide like its supposed to. i did notice quite a bit of wear on the top of the hex screw for having only cycled a bullet through it twice. could it have been cause by the fact that i reused a bullet that had already been extracted? the bullet did have a few scratched on it. im scared to try it again because i dont want it to get stuck in there again or possibly cause damage. is it possib

phew! okay i was able to get the bolt to open by pressing the bolt lever against the table and pushing on the stock. now that THAT problem is solved, i have to figure out what is causing this. has anyone ever heard of the bullet guide causing the bolt to stick. the only damage i can see on the bullet is on the very end where its pointed, its a little smashed/marred up on the tip...kinda weird im not sure what couldve caused this.

yeah the problem is that the bolt is stuck. im not sure if the bullet itself is stuck but the bolt is jammed in there too hard for me to pull it out by hand in order to exract the bullet. with the hammer decocked, would it be safe to hit the bold lever with a rubber mallet to try and dislodge it? damn it this sucks I didn't think this problem was possible witht he bulet guide installation.

Hello, I'm in the process of converting my saiga 7.62 rifle. I just finished instralling the bullet guide and after testing it once to see if it would feed, I ejected the live round, then, when i tried it again, the bolt was stuck and now the round will not eject. it appears as if the bolt is making contact with the bullet guide screw, but im not sure. there is a very small amount of play in it before it sticks. I thought about hitting it with a mallet, but i don't want the round to go off accidentally. should i try to fire the gun or is this a bad idea? any suggestuons?

excellent, that should be all i need then. i was comparing the link that plastik posted with diznags modified g2 for 39 dollars here. my gun wasn't equipped with a bho lever, so i should be good there. Is there any difference in these two other than the BHO mod and the saiga 12 gauge mod(neither apply to me)? so since this trigger "drops" in, is the only other part i need going to be a retainer plate and mounting hardware for the trigger guard in order to move the trigger? or do i also need the disconnect spring that you mention? either way, it doesn't look like either of the kits c

why are CSS's saiga g2 "conversion" triggers so much cheaper than diznagarms.com? does the CSS require any modification or is it drop-in like the ones diznag has? are their prices just plain lower? I was about to order the trigger along with other conversioin parts, but I want to be sure I wont have any probles installing it into my saiga.