TARE

I would stick to lighter loads for home defense and heavier for woods. I would think the 158 would be too much penetration for us soft skinned mammals, but thats just me speculating, however the 125 is what 357mag built its reputation on.

I think I've had 4-5 orders go through them, I always check them first for AK parts, and they are almost always the best price and shipping is great. Nothing I have ever gotten from them has been damaged or defective, and they've always had the answers I needed when I called. If they stocked surplus parts like magazines and the like I wouldn't be buying stuff elsewhere, but if they have what I need which they typically do they get my business; I have recommended them to anyone asking me about Saigas they're #1 for Saiga supplies followed by M.A.A.

If you want to be perfect as far as lubrication is concerned you should use gun grease on areas where lubrication migration isn't needed (rails, trigger face, bottom of bolt carrier, etc.) use oil on parts like the trigger assembly or other areas where you want the oil to get in beyond the application site. Of course many have run Aks dry or with plain motor oil or gun oils like ballistol with sucess. I have frog lube on mine right now and I find the gun come clean easier as a result, I am not using a grease, but it is often recommended

To help put things in perspective for you; have you any idea how many people have given harsh criticism to your AR? and Yet you have not had a single problem. Similarly you'll see that with Saiga 12's. Myself, I'm a statistic and had a problem gun (with light loads); covered port, undersized and given up on by the guy I bought it from. Honestly I would be less knowledgeable had I gotten a prime example of a quality shotgun, but I have had my fair share of hands on learning experiences and it has almost all served to educate me and most of the knowledge I gained was tapped later by others w

ChaosTrigger, are you seeking some sort of reimbursement for the cost you dumped into the hack job, you seem to have a lot that would back you in seeking your money back, this is the type of stuff that shouldn't be happening and by not seeing the unprofessional garage hack gets his just deserts you in a way help keep him in operation. Hope you get this straitened out, sorry if I missed a post where you may have answered this, but from my reading it seems like your excepting the loss here although you shouldn't have to. Plain and simple you where sold a gun not the the specs which are

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/72132-mako-recoil-reducing-stock-on-saiga-12/page__fromsearch__1

I just tried my Saiga 12 last night with the new Mako recoil absorbing stock on it, and I do think it did provide noticeable felt recoil reduction, more noticeable with heavier loadings like the 3" #4 turkey loads I shot. My setup was formerly the ace stock mounted to their folding mechanism and that bolted to a receiver block. My tang was removed to do that setup. I run a competition brake so already have some recoil reduction going on, but I wanted to reduce recoil on heavy loads like 3" hunting and self defense loadings, so I ordered the pig-nose adapter and a mil-spec AR-Buffer tube. R

I agree, just because you're seeing the possible benefits of eating the chuck steak sold to you as tenderloin doesn't mean you should settle with what you've gotten there. As a rook when it comes to short barreled saigas, I can only say that It was my understanding that one large gas port is not as desireable as a number of correct sized, or slightly oversized holes. It was my understanding that the one port system get fouled faster and sometimes shot could get into the gas block (this I haven't heard of actually happening,but I though thats why they are angled and why they use multiple po

The Tapco trigger is what I have in two of three AKMs; profiled and polished its a good trigger. The only others I hear people using and liking are the RSA adjustable triggers. The trigger unit on my SGL-31 isn't a tapco, don't know what it is, but it has a raised portion on the hammer area that reciprocates with the trigger, this gives it a defined 2nd stage, I don't really find it better personally, but some might, seems like one could easily modify a tapco to have the step for the 2nd stage

Maybe he thinks it might function like a Mercury Recoil Reducer or some such product? Yeah, I thought the buffer piece itself had some reduction charatoristics, and the spring would just hold it in place. Glad the conclusion seems to be leave it out, cause last night I put everything on and left the spring and buffer out. After I take it to the range, I'll have give it a review. Thanks everyone for input

Not so sure this is the right place to post this but seemed appropriate. First off, I don't own an AR and might not in my lifetime, so don't hang me for a dumb question. I'm planning on trying the GL-Shock stock by MAKO Group on My SG-12; I have the tang cut off, with the block and pignose all ready. I have a ATI mil-version buffer tube and assembly ( Springs and buffer thingy). Since I don't have any place for the spring to go like a typical AR has in the back is there any real advantage for me to instal the tube with the spring and buffer in it, or should I just install the empty b

It makes me laugh a little when I hear people saying how much better their Century Builds are than a Saiga, makes me think you either haven't converted it, or should've had someone else do it for you.

Yes, they all suck and are just a step in the wrong direction, as you'll likely do the real conversion and turn that rifle into what it should be. Running a Saiga in sporter configuration is to a converted Saiga as just the tip is to balls deep; sure the fundamentals are the same, but really you're shorting yourself...

I'm going to try the Mako recoil reducing stock and see if that makes a difference. I'll let you know once I get the parts on

I try to stay away from them and encourage you to do the same. This is contrary to most people's experience with these makes. What caliber Saiga, who did the conversion, does it have the Bullet guide if applicable.

Take that puck out of your MKA-1919 it is for the Saigas only.... I know you meant to post this elsewhere, so to answer your intended question, the twister puck should be swapped out for a MD, Tapco, KA puck, which are far better in thier function and materials. The Twister puck has been known to deform and rust and looks like it could eventually wear on your gas block more than other pucks that aren't so drill like. You pay shipping and I'll send you another one if you want to keep running it. Can I ask why not run the factory puck?

Some will some won't. I believe that most will come without if they are imports. K-var makes polymer stocks that have the trap door. Other woods stocks can add: http://aa-ok.com/ak-ak47-akm-ak74-parts/ak-stocks-fixed.html and the spring to make the door if they don't already have one.

Like it has been said, the gun that is marketed as the Springfield XD was not made by SA but made in coratia and rotted on the shelves until the springfield name was adorn to it, so Glock still has that gun beat with its many years of plastic shovel production, followed by many more years of producing excellent side arms. Onto the question at hand; 9 will seemingly recoil the least and 40 seemingly the most. What are you doing with this gun, will it have to be concealed, in which case the 45 takes a hit in that department. How much will you shoot this gun if a lot the 9mm will

That seems questionable, to me, I use the G2 in a couple guns and think its nice, thats what I thought was the base trigger group to use. Wait though to hear from someone who might have used the group in question.

looks to be compliant http://thegunwiki.com/Gunwiki/BuildSaigaVerifyCompliance I hate using the mag parts for compliance since I have 7.62 drums that I'd like to use. Stick to the mags you've changed the floorplates out on and you'll be cool should you be the first person ever for me to hear get check for compliance.

The hammer hits the firing pin, Tapco sells trigger groups, otherwise maybe you're referring to the pin that retains the firing pin in the bolt, both are something you should be able to locate, I've heard quality good nails can be used as the pin if you cut them to the right size.

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Arsenal will have better resale than a home conversion. They come with a threaded barrel which can be prohibitive if you wanted to thread a sporter configuration saiga. Warranty vs. some companies like I.O or century arms is much better. The time invested to do the modifications needed to get the rifle as they come from arsenal, myself found it enjoyable, but others might value their time more. Arsenals often outshoot WASR rifles or other century and I.O rifles. Most century rifles have non-chrome lined barrels Most century rifles have poorer magazine fit some have unmatching serials.

Interested in trading

Not bad, but I prefer the looks of the Tromix and ACE