tialloydragon

I cut and rethreaded my barrel from 21 or 22 (whichever one is standard) inches down to 19" (because I wanted a margin of error if I fu@&ed up the threading.). My gas system works fine the way it is.

Tromix Monster break, or the Poly-choke with the Breacher/Vented end are probably two of the longest.

I shoot trap with my S12, and this is exactly how I load my Saiga (much less tedious to load a single shell from the bottom as opposed to loading one round into a magazine.) Been going it that way for about 3 years since I bought it, and I haven't had a single issue.

I rarely use the safety, so i am planning on drilling a shallow detent into the receiver for the dimple to rest in and keep the safety from moving, and then spray paint the receiver to get rid of the scratch mark. Or maybe i will just leave it as-is.

Most "field grade" shotguns require you cover the target with the barrel when shooting. I would imagine the S12 would be similar. You could grind down the bead and add a clamp on front sight that has an elevation adjustment

mine functioned well to get in the way of my folding stock setup (M4 tube and GL-Shock Stock,) so now I use it as a novelty paperweight.

If all the time I have spent on the internet has taught me anything, it is that people will spend more time complaining about issues than they do professing that things work correctly. My S12 worked fine out of the box, and I 'fixed' it anyway.

7/8oz is about 24g. What is the length of the barrel at the Saiga? You're in luck My S12 came with, I think, a 22 or 24 inch barrel. I have since cut and rethreaded it down to 19.5 inches.

The buffer tube on my S12 is made by Vltor, and it is made of thick aluminum.

Mako GL Shock. It's an AR15 stock with a built-in shock absorber. I use it with a Vltor buffer tube, and a pignose adapter connected to an internal receiver block. I used to have a polymer CAA AR15 Stock adapter, but I never liked the looks of it with the extra block of material behind the receiver. My S12 has practically no recoil shooting target loads. It actually recoils less than my 1100 and AL391. Just make sure you can adjust the gas system according to avoid any failures to eject.

My S12 ran fine out of the box. I had to add a few things to help it cycle my reloads (7/8oz of 7.5 shot with 19.6 grains of Clays powder) like a V-plug and a booster puck, but I didn't have to tear it apart and drill out the gas ports.

I tapped (sort of) a fiber optic sight bead where the old front sight used to be, knocked out the rear dovetail sight, and attached a CSS bolt on front sight with a Hi-Viz sight post. That way now I have a front and a midbead sight picture, and my S12 points like my 1100 and my AL391.

I think a dwarf hamster would load nicely into a 12ga shell. I shoot clays primarily (trap and sporting clays) so my S12 is currently set up to cycle 7/8oz, 7.5 shot with 19 grains of Hodgdon Clays. I am running a V-Plug with a Booster puck and the factory recoil spring. My S12 cycles them just fine.

I keep my S12 with a five rounder of Winchester PDX; Open bolt, mag in. Five should do it. If it doesn't, I have a loaded handgun and two 30 round mags loaded for my FS2000. I would preferably like to be prepared, but limit my shotgun use so I don't have to do as much spackle and plaster work afterwards.

I shoot trap and sporting clays with my S12. My best round so far is a 22 out of 25. I have a poly-choke on mine, which does help. The only issue I have had shooting my S12 is that some seasoned trap shooters don't like ejected hulls bouncing off their heads and guns. I just apologize in advance to whomever has to shoot next to me and remind them nobody makes a shell catcher yet.

I have used the drum with the AFG and it's comfortable, but never sitting down. My club is the opposite, in that I can't shoot my shotguns anywhere but the trap field. If you need to use the drum while sitting, think about getting a Grip Pod. It is a vertical grip with a deployable bipod. I shoot trap and sporting clays with my Saiga, and I think the AFG gives me a more comfortable angle for my supporting hand and more control than the OEM handguard or a VFG. YMMV, because the angle is closer to what I am used to shooting (Remington 1100 and Beretta 391.)

The only issue I have on rare occasions with what I would call a "cartridge failure" in shotgun shells is the plastic part of the shell can separate from the metal base and either fire completely out of the barrel with the rest of the payload, or it needs to be pushed out with a cleaning rod. This typically happens when a hull is reloaded way too many times. I have never seen this happen in a semi-auto shotgun. You could also have an instance where a shell has no powder in it, and the primer propels the wad half way down the barrel, and the shot spills out the end of the barrel. Usually

Needs front and rear-facing bayonets.

They already make 30 round mags. They're called Wraithmakers, and they are ungodly expensive.

I slathered my threads with Brian Enos Slide Glide, and it seems to help when I need to change the setting. Just keep them greased and you should be ok.

Clamp it in a bench vise. They'll move.

I'd buy one and use it for sporting clays as a "Diffusion Choke."

I would like to see how this performs on a patterning board before I would invest anything in it. If you want a shot spreader, buy a Diffusion Choke. It's rifled, so it spins the wad and shot before it leaves the barrel with a very large circular pattern.

Hello, I bought my Saiga 12 on gunbroker ($395; wow, those were the days) from a guy who claimed the barrel was 22". Now I want to do a cut/rethread down to 18 or 19 inches. At what spot is the barrel length measured officially? From the muzzle to where precisely? From the end of the "prongs" that interlock with the bolt? or from where the end of the shotshell sits if you drop it into the chamber? I measured the barrel from the muzzle to the end of the "prongs" and it came out to 24". I don't want any legal trouble, or have to pay for a tax stamp for a SBS. Then agai

With my stock assembly off the gun and the BHO out of the gun I installed the trigger group axis pin that holds the BHO spring in place completely and locked it in place (I use the shepherd's crook.) With the BHO spring sitting next to the BHO hole, I slip a slotted screwdriver through the back of the receiver and under the part of the spring that has to be raised over the BHO. Then I put the BHO in position and lift the spring over the BHO. Probably easier said than done, but it almost took me longer to write this post than actually get it back in place after installing my performanc