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lunker

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About lunker

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  • Birthday 07/18/1969

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    Jersey Shore
  1. I have the Ultimak rail and have found that it really only works well with the standard KVAR style handguard. Unfortunately this puts my support hand too close to the receiver for comfort. My support hand elbow is cramped. Is there any other lower handguard mount that works with the Ultimak rail? Alternatively, if I were to sell the Ultimak, is there another rail system that would allow cowitness with my Aimpoint micro the way the Ultimak does? The Midwest industries rail with aimpoint top cover looks intriguing.
  2. A muzzle brake on a 223 is not a "must have", like it is on a 308. But it does make a substantial difference. I used to have straight barrel target ARs. I picked up a Colt M4-gery and realized there was definitely some muzzle rise in a lightweight (~5lb) ar. The Surefire muzzle brake made a big difference getting back on target fast.
  3. I have a SureFire MB556K on my Colt 6940. While it may be obnoxious to those unfortunate enough to be standing to the side of me, it does an excellent job of nearly eliminating muzzle rise. Followup shots are super fast. I want to put the same brake on my Saiga 223 but have some questions about my options. At first I was thinking large. Since the muzzle would need to be threaded anyway, I was considering having the FSB moved closer to the gas block, and shortening and recrowning the barrel to 14.5", so it would be just over 16" with the comp. I don't know anyone who does that kind of work, except maybe over at Tromix (and they are not accepting work orders until 2015 according to their website!). Are there smiths that would do a good job and wouldn't break the bank for this? My second, somewhat less appealing option, is to just have the barrel threaded and have a SureFire break mounted to the existing barrel setup. I could live with a ~18" barrel. This could be done locally for me fairly inexpensively. Any thoughts, pro or con? Any reason I should NOT go ahead with this? Thanks in advance.
  4. I have been Googling and scouring through the forum and it seems that most of the info I see is a few years old. I would like to have a Scout setup on my Saiaga 308, and throw an Aimpoint T1/H1 on an Ultimak gas tube rail. The question I have is about the Ultimak rail. I have read about people using the standard tube/rail and just dremeling out the inside of the U-bolt to account for the thicker barrel profile. I see that Ultimak has VEPR tubes though. I owned a Robarms VEPR and know the barrel had a thicker profile. Can I use one of them? I would think the U-bolt would be bigger to accomodate the bigger barrel. It seems like if it fits, I have to modify the lower handguard. If I use the standard one, I have to modify the U bolts. Also, if I do get this tube mounted, will the Aimpoint H1 or T1 cowitness? I am OK with a lower 1/3 Cowitness (although I prefer absolute) if it works out that way. Does anyone have the latest scoop? Thanks.
  5. I was looking at BudsGunShop and saw they had two different Saiga 308s on their site. One was listed as the standard IZ-137. That one wasn't a mystery to me. http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/81154/RWC+IZ137+SAIGA+308W+16%22BBL+BLKSYN+8RD The other one though was listed as 170290. http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/78696/SAIGA+170290+308+16IN The descriptions are the same (i.e. plastic furniture, barrel length, etc). The only difference i saw was that the second one cost more and had a 10 round mag instead of 8 round. Does anyone know what the difference is? Thanks in advance.
  6. I bought this Saiga-12 back in January and have put about 200 rounds through it. It is the IZ-109 model with 19" threaded barrel with beaded rib. The gun is unconverted because of New Jersey's retarded gun laws (i.e. pistol gripped semi-auto shotguns are considered assault weapons). I sent the bolt and trigger group off to Pauly's Custom Fabrication for his glassbolt special (http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/61900-paulys-glass-bolt-special/). The gun is now much, much smoother than it ever was. It will cycle with light target loads and the trigger pull is night-and-day better than it was before the custom work. The gun will now also close the bolt on a loaded magazine, something stock Saiga 12's cannot do (meaning the total capacity now is 6 instead of 5). I have also purchased the MD Arms V-Plug (https://www.mdarms.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_11&products_id=16) which allows you to dial in the gas system much more than the stock Saiaga plug (5 settings versus 2). I still have the original plug. I also bought the Polychoke-2 (http://www.poly-choke.com/choke2.htm), which helps a lot when you want to take this gun out for clays or hunting. It is a twist choke with nine different settings (from X-tra full, slug, to wide open) and I have the stock Saiga thread cap. The Polychoke comes with instructions and an adjustment spanner tool. The Saiga-12 came with one Saiga 5 round mag, a box, a user manual, oil bottle, cleaning rod, bore brush, and cleaning rod handle with tools inside. I have also bought an additional OEM Saiga 5 round mag (http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-187/Russian-OEM-5rd-Saiga/Detail). The Russian mags are miles better than most of the aftermarket hi-cap mags (most of which we can't own in Jersey anyway). I also bought a 2 round SureFire magazine so that this gun could legally be taken out for bird hunting (http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-199/SAIGA-12-SUREFIRE-2RD/Detail). All this is about $300 in custom work and accessories. I am asking $800 for the package.
  7. He may have patented his own method of creating a doublestack magazine, but I can't imagine the patent covers ALL doublestack mag designs. That would be like Ford being the only company that could make a convertible because they made the first one. MD Arms makes great stuff, but I hope others try their hand at doublestacks too. Competition is never a bad thing.
  8. Sorry about the bad info. I have HK sights on my PTR32 and I assumed Chaos worked the same way.
  9. The three holes are for different distances. The notch is for 100 meters. The other holes should be numbered. I prefer the 200 meter peep to the 100 meter notch. Also, you need a special tool to adjust elevation. I am not sure how much it matters on a shotgun though.
  10. That is my big question. Their peep sight for the AK sits really low on the rail. All the other rail mounted peep sights I have ever seen are for ARs. I would think that they could not be adjusted low enough (many don't even adjust for height), even with raising the front sight post as high as it will go. I am waiting for a call back from TWS to see what the max rear sight height is.
  11. One of the things I always had problems with on AKs is the mid rifle rear sights. I was thinking about going with the replacement peeps, but decided to buy the Texas Weapons Systems railed top cover for my Saiga 223 because I am dying for a true rear sight at the back of the rifle. From what I have seen and read, it stays on there nice and tight. At half the cost of the Krebs cover, I am willing to take the chance. Also, I am planning on using the AR stock adaptor and it requires grinding the rear trunion tang off. The Krebs top cover uses the rear tang to lock into place. The Tech Sights product looks like an abortion, but I would be willing to try it if I knew it was solid and reliable. I have two questions: 1) Did I make a mistake? Does anyone have the TWS cover and hate it/love it? Does it stay on pretty well. 2) At the moment, TWS only makes a fixed rear peep sight. It is really low and non-adjustable for windage and elevation. Does anyone know if any AR flip-up sights can be used in its place. They would have to be really low, and I'd want them to be adjustable. Thanks in advance.
  12. Saiga as a good first gun? Depends on how handy you are. Some of us get lucky and have a great running shotgun right out of the box. Others don't. You could send it back for warranty (assuming you haven't converted it), or try to fix the problems yourself. There are a lot of sticky thread to show you how to smooth out the operation. If you want a plug-and-play gun, a Mossy or Remmy pump might be a better bet.
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