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DFM56

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About DFM56

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  1. I use a midwest lower handguard with no upper rail. You need to take a little bit of the heatshield off of the stock saiga gas tube, but it really isn't a big deal.
  2. I have one as a placeholder on mine. It's better than nothing but nothing special. If you're going to go through the trouble to thread it I would get something more effective.
  3. Thanks again! Someone has one up for sale on ar15.com and they removed the spacer. I might have to pick it up if some paypal money clears before it sells. I think I'm sold on this mount over the TWS cover. Also, since you're looking for a brake, Spike's Tactical is making their dynacomp in 14mm soon. The reviews for the AR15 unit have been pretty positive from what I've seen and the price is reasonable so I've been waiting on those.
  4. I don't need the length of the green section, I was just wondering if you can take it out and if the mount will work without it. It looks like a spacer, but I've been wrong about things like that before.
  5. Thanks for the info! Just to be clear, I was referring to the section highlighted in green in this picture; It looks like the mount pictured on the PA site already has this removed. Good news on the stock length, though. I run a nato length K-var stock right now (10.75" iirc) and the lop is comfortable for me. For some reason the stock looked very long in your pictures, must be the buffer tube playing tricks on me. Also, based on 9000 hours in MS paint, it looks like you can fit the optic farther forward in the mount if for some reason you needed to. Might be something to pla
  6. opps, forgot to update this! We took it in a few weeks ago, made a fixture for the bridgeport and circle-interpolated around the bore. The normal 14mm die worked fine after that, so it's threaded now. It shot very well with just a slant brake I had kicking around, can't wait to get something a bit better. I find it funny that we have a lathe big enough to make drive shafts for industrial mixers (I can't even carry one of those things without help!) and we had to 'turn' the barrel down on a mill.. Should be concentric enough for a 7.62 brake and thats all I care about.
  7. Can you remove that piece with the holes in it to lower the scope? How centered is it? Any complaints with the optic/rifle overall? Looks like you have to extend the stock pretty far, or is that how you normally run it anyway without optics? It looks like the mount could benefit from something thats a bit shorter than the primary arms optic, but it's hard to tell without handling the rifle. I'm also not sure what you can even fit in there since it seems like the clearance between the rings is an issue. Also, if you wouldn't mind, could you get the following dimensions for the mount/rifle?
  8. My .223 has no dimples, pinned gas block and front sight block, and a .591" barrel.
  9. The lathe is more than big enough to fit the barrel, but I don't have the equipment necessary to pull it or press it back in.
  10. We might be able to rig to the tool you linked to the spindle of a lathe and clamp the barrel to the tailstock. I would be much more comfortable using it that way than doing it with a cordless drill.. Right now we're going to try to stand the rifle up off of the bed of a mill and circle interpolate around the bore. Hopefully that works, but the dinzag tool is second on my list if it doesn't.
  11. Bit of an update. It won't fit in the lathe. I mean, it kind of did, but we didn't want to start it because it probably would have come loose and killed someone. So I guess it didn't really fit... Anyway, I'll be calling around in the next few days to find a place that can do this. If anyone has any suggestions I would love to hear them.
  12. Well, I cut the shroud off of my Saiga yesterday. I tried to thread it with a 14mm die but it wouldn't cut. My father (30 years experience as a machinist) had the brilliant idea of taking some calipers to the barrel. Looks like I have a .591" barrel, unlike the .571" barrels most of them have... We're going to try to set it up in our biggest lathe at work, but neither of us are sure if it will actually fit. So, I really have two questions; 1. Since it needs to be turned down for whatever thread I want to put on it, is there any reason to use 14mm instead of 1/2x28? The brake I'm intere
  13. I was "lucky" enough to get a .591" barrel on my .223. I only found out when I cut the shroud off the front sight to thread it. Normal 14mm die won't work so I need to have it turned down..
  14. Thanks again. That mount looks interesting, looking forward to your report..
  15. Thanks for the info! I'm going to do something similar with my .223, just can't decide between the fuglystick and the modular rail Midwest is releasing soon. I agree that the ultimak isn't ideal but I might be trying something completely stupid as far as irons go and I'll need the ultimak if I end up doing that.. One more question, is this the internal block that you're using, and if so, is there anything preventing you from mounting the folding mech higher on the receiver? http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-372/Saiga-AK47-Internal-Stock/Detail
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