Centauro97

As noted earlier, 922r regulates how many imported parts can be used. If your imported firearm only has 10 parts total then it's in compliance. So if you remove the handguards and buttstock and "do not have them readily available" for installation (which would constitute constuctive intent) then sure you can remove an imported part from the equation. You'd be hard pressed to be sure you don't have the parts anywhere that could be construed as "possession". Not anywhere in or on property that you own or control. So from a purely academic question if you meet at least these criteri

Ironwood Designs has pistol grips. I just installed one of their Yugo pistol grips to match my beechwood forearm. It required ingenuity (and almost vodka) and some minor surgery but it now fits. Would have been a simple bolt-on with a standard AK grip. I've got the Saige beechwood forearm from CSS. They were out of stock last I checked. No mods to install. C97

Do you have any other AK's? If so, you understand how to insert the magazines. It does take a little technique, and don't be afraid to apply liberal force. Getting to "know" you Saiga will help you appreciate it. Some magazines have a little flashing around the tab the magazine catch clips into. Try inserting the magazine and pull back on the magazine catch to force it into the notch. IF that works, then either do that for a while and it'll smooth out or get after the area on the magazine where the catch engages with an emery board or small file to smooth out the edge. ARs are fin

Or skip this adapter and use this This is a nice billet aluminum part that has worked well for me.

Cut the original safety stop off of the trigger guard "assembly". The hole should now align with the front grip screw's hole. I filed the front mating surface to allow for the extra thickness of the safety stop. If you want to be really high-tech you can try and file a notch so it's flush (I'll drag mine out an take some photos so you can figure out what I'm talking about). Works well, it's very solid, and the selection of AR grips is good. I used a Magpul MOE grip so I had to cut off the rear projection with the WECSOG special tool (Dremel). C97

Gonna have to pile on this love fest. Website shows stocking status (+1), email confirmation of order (+1), shipping email (+1), package received before you get home (+1). Starting my 2nd S-12 conversion thanks to CSS's perfect record. C97

http://forum.saiga-1...showtopic=59286 K-var just got a shipment in... What are folks doing about the importation marks on the receiver where you have to cut out the hole for this folding stock? At least that's where mine is marked, right rear of the receiver. Sheesh.

Tried for a littler different look. Plan on adding an Ironwood beech Yugo grip when it comes in.

1st Gen Glock 21 vs M&P 45, biggest difference I notice is grip size and light rail. No "problems" with either.

Let us know how it goes shooting prone with a 10 round straight magazine. At least you'll have a magazine-monpod so "unsupported" won't be a problem. Seriously, the 12 round ProMags are much shorter and have worked well so far, at least for me. For the scope mount, what will you use to anchor the front since the Saiga shotgun doesn't have a standard AK rear sight? Since it DOES have the side rail, I'd recommend using that which will give you quick detach capability, and more "head up" posture with the red dot I assume you plan to mount, and access to the iron sights if needed.

Well this does bring up classic past threads by Gecko45 (http://lonelymachines.org/mall-ninjas/) it also brings up, what I think, is a good point. Dedicated home-defense weapons. Depending on where you live, if you shoot at someone you can expect scrutiny of your actions. Any modification to your weapon that "increases its lethality" may be used against you in both a criminal and civil trial. Just something to consider and a good argument for keeping any weapon bone-stock that you use for home defense.

The battery tray on the C-more was a major factor for me. Taking out tiny screws to change batteries...yep, eventually you'll lose one. Unlike an Aimpoint that will last 5-years with the dot turned on, these little guys are lucky to have the battery last 5-year turned off (hood on the darken dot as much as possible). So the difference for me, assuming equal durability and optical quality, was the battery compartment configuration since I change the batteries out about once every 6 months. Hope this helps, C97

You're allowed to expect the repair to look as good as the other side that didn't get damaged. If you can't tell any difference in whether they used aftermarket or used, then what's the problem? If you can tell the difference (poor fit or alignment or rust on the underside) then you refuse to accept the repair. That's the gamble for the repair company and that's your leverage with the quality of repair. Sounds like you've picked a good shop. Inspect some of the vehicles with finished repairs. If you can't figure out where the work was done, that's what you want, right? Regarding t

I've got the Lasermax recoil-rod laser in one Glock and the GTL on another. The Lasermax is major cool technology and amazingly works. I've only shot a few hundred rounds but so far so good. The switch, at least on mine, is quite stiff so accidental activation isn't an issue. The GTL seems as well made as some Insight lights that I have on other guns. Not all metal like the Surefire but not as expensive either. I'm not going to pound nails with the GTL but short of that I don't anticipate it breaking. But I've seen guys break wrenches so what do I know. C97

Been looking to bite the bullet on this for a while. Some points I've considered: 1) Fuel source: gasoline is my least favored due to risk of storing quantities of this flammable liquid. NG is my first choice since it's available for me. Propane if that's available or diesel. Propane or NG are good because the fuel won't go "bad" sitting between outages. 2) Cooling system: liquid cooling is best but that's only above $10K. Air cooling and venting of the containment box is important. 3) Automatic systems: the better ones have automatic "exercise" cycles that run the unit eve