hutchsaiga

. Does The brake still thread on? Weld up the cut in the sight tower( or solder) then paint it if it does

Get a decent red dot and mount it on an ultimak or kalinka bp02 Then you'll love the red dot Part of the beauty of the ak is how easy it Breaks down, tech sights ruin that

I'd contact legion or whomever you purchased it from, return it, and get a kalinka bp02

Bushnell trs 25 or primary arms micro are the best onthe under $100 category

Check out the thread you started, I just posted the answer in there;)

No problemo About the quality Of the utg rail; I hear it is a surprisingly solid piece, the only thing that blows(like most other inexpensive rails for other rifles) is the wieght. They tend to Make your rifle unwieldly, and take away from the pointing speed combat rifles are supposed to benefit from

Like madhatter said. Why on earth would you take off a 24mm fsb???

"converted to 5.56x45" Lol!!!!!

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/32194-922-r-compliance-automatic-checklist/page__pid__287503#entry287503

As far as the Cherokee goes, Chrysler did virtually nothing to the base design. 98-01 XJ was still mostly a rock-solid AMC design, with some styling improvements from Chrysler, and a very reliable EFI system for the 4.0. Unlike the rest of their product lineups at the time, the Cherokee was rarely plagued by gremlins because it was mechanically and electrically simple. It also has one of the most durable and reliable automatic transmissions in an SUV, the AW4. This is the same auto used in most Toyota trucks/SUVs. Unlike Explorers, Durangos, Blazers, etc. the Cherokee's transmission is general

helmforge.blogspot.com Awesome zombie killers Hammer forged by hand in the good ol US OF A!!

Wow totally forgot about this thread. She's all gorgeous now:)

I recently did mine minus a few items on your(wood finishing,riveting bullet guide etc) Like I said in other threads. Just Make sure you have your fsb and gasblock straight and aligned, drill one Hole, pin, zero the rifle to confirm then do Your second pin. I actually had to drive out my first pin after I zeroed becuase the fsp was pushed to far one side for my liking. You can see my thread here http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/75449-changing-a-welded-on-fsb/page__pid__750826__st__30#entry750826

Jeep. With a 4.0l. Well cared for gets you 300k mi easy Also very affordable

There is that handguard locator pin that you need to remove. Are you sure you gb isn't dimpled like on most Also +1 on soaking in penetrating oil

Locktite is a good idea. You never plan on removing it, so red is fine As for all these folks breaking taps: it's clear the ones that come in kits are junk. I've tapped thousands of holes in all kinds of steels and never broken a tap from the kit my dad bought 35years ago

Leaving switches on isn't really an argument against red dots. That switch creates illumination which is more than very valuable In low light situations and leaving them on is a non issue with optics like the t1/h1 which last more than five years on full brightness

please stop with the name calling, youre gunna hurt my feelings but in all seriousness, it woud be plenting easy enough for you to put on a bolt on handguard retainer like the one from www.saiga-ak.co(link not completed due to forum rules) and throw on some AK handguards boom theres one step done. now go buy a bullet guide from www.carolinashooterssupplys.com take it and the screw to a local machine shop. id be willing to bet that you can find one in your area, or heck i bet even a mechanic would do it, be desreet(dont just walk in with a gun) call ahead, and take time to carefully

They are Batch tested. Not every rifle is thoroughly inspected. They are all test fired quickly and looked over but only one rifle per batch is examined with a fine tooth comb

Here's a few of me. All bearded now, but not nearly as scary as chile;) haha

Pictures of a stepped chamber can be found here http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/7303-case-neck-swelling-pics/page__pid__710127__st__60#entry710127 And this what the handguard notch looks like(this is the one I made becuase my rifle didn't have one)closest to the camera is the gas block, and the notch is on the top of the barrell with th slots running down the sides But remember this two things are not a guarantee they just increase your chances(especially on an 09 manufacture)

Too attached to sell?? Yet your worst case scenario is destroying your $350 rifle that you seem to be so attached too?? Maybe it's time to rethink your plans here and get a better worst case scenario? As for dickish comments to me I have one reply and only one; don't be all butthurt towards me becuase you cant follow instructions or use tools:) For your exact situation, the best advice bar none, has already been given. sell the saiga, buy an arsenal or iz332 from atlantic(and do the FCG) and be done

Sure, if you want a fishing weight. That muzzle device is not a faithful reproduction of the 74-type brake, so it's not very effective. A slant brake would be far more effective at combating muzzle rise than those crappy repops. My actual 74 brakes have the wider bottom portion than the top, holes in the top and the zig zag cuts. That thing lacks all those features.

Nice rifle. Shoot the shit out of it!!

Yeah, but when you live in an apartment, buying tools like a drill press can be hard. ;p I also don't have a dremel or pipe threader. To be honest threading the barrel scares the piss out of me, so does tapping and drilling the bullet guide. I'm thinking if the work is "so easy" SOME gunsmith should be willing to do it without charging $700 bucks. Don't get all snide with me. The work is "so easy" and I didn't Say a gunsmith would charge $700 bucks. What I said was; between parts, shipping, FFL transfers, time and hassle you'd be better off selling the saiga and buying an arsenal if