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AJ Dual

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About AJ Dual

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/27/1973

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    Male
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    Milwaukee Metro
  1. This. With a nice clean and lubed G2 trigger group most everyone is running already as compliance parts, there's not really any call for this product. The G2 has a lighter pull, and a cleaner brake than most any factory AR15 trigger group as it is already.
  2. He means Obummer. And thanks for the ideas. I'll try the washer thing, since I never seem to have much luck with trying to re-contour or bending springs.
  3. I've searched the forum, but there's so much on just removing the BHO, or the dental floss string trick to get the spring to seat, or improving the spring notch in the BHO lever, I couldn't find more info. I've seen the Carolina Shooter's Supply BHO, and I know it's easier to install into the FCG, and doesn't need three hands to put in, what I'm looking for is to find if anyone knows if it or some other BHO is more reliable. Does anyone make a reliability enhanced BHO, or can confirm the CSS BHO won't slip out? I found the BHO convenient for seating full mags and drums, and would just rather use the BHO... if it worked, than going through the hassle to re-profile my bolt. I've done the mod with the deeper spring retaining notch, but I've still had the BHO slip it's spring, and also had it fall all the way up into the receiver and lock the bolt and FCG up on more than one occasion and have had to ditch it entirely for now.
  4. That means it will SHOOT THROUGH SCHOOLS, JUST LIKE THE .88 MAGNUM!
  5. AJ Dual

    Slugs For Cheap

    That's an excellent video. Thanks for posting it! It's my own ass on the line and I won't advocate anything to anyone else, but I feel pretty safe testing stuff out in my Saiga and making substitutions that at least seem somewhat equivalent, or combinations that should reduce pressures. Like taking an oz and 1/8th load data and substituting a 1oz Lee slug, which is less weight, and less bore obduration because slugs resist swelling to the side under their own inertial like shot does etc. Add to that, the Saiga has a much thicker barrel profile than many common western sporting shotguns, it has a permanent barrel attachment through the trunnion interface etc, and a rotary locking bolt, as opposed to single tilting lug like Remington or Mossberg.
  6. AJ Dual

    Poly Chokes

    I have the flash hider version. So far it's been fine. Scrubbed some plastic and carbon out of it now and again. Next time I shoot my cheap reloaded Fed bulk-pack "birdslugs" I need to remember to crank down on it from cylinder/slug to IC and see if it strips off the wad a bit sooner and improves the accuracy of them any.
  7. AJ Dual

    Slugs For Cheap

    I got the PK-A red-dot on my Saiga out at the range last week so I could take a stab at some actual groups and see what I'd get. The spread seems to be about 4-5" from my 1oz Lee birdslugs at 25yards. These were re-stuffed into virgin Federal bulk pack #8 hulls powder and wads from my original round of converted shells. I didn't really try super hard with my Caldwell rest, just the sandbags my club provides, but any other long-gun I shoot at 25 yards from a rest is practically one-hole, so I can tell I'm getting some extreme spread here. It's not me. I'm not very surprised. Seating depth of the slugs in the wads is inconsistent, I've been too lazy to use a cardboard wad/riser card to fill the gaps for a more consistent depth like some in this thread have. And even if I pushed them all down, the slight taper of the Lee slug and that of the shot-cup probably makes the slug ride up a few millimeters under jostling/handling towards the front crimp of the shell anyway. I think the problem is mainly the cheap two-piece Federal bulk-pack wads, it has a very thin cup, and then the plug and cylindrical spacer post that sits above the powder. For the first time, since I wasn't just shooting these for fun and to turn "money into noise", I picked some of the wads/cups up from the ground between the firing line and the target stands. They're always half-cut through on one edge and not the other, and the cylinder plug pieces don't really seem to petal out or bend or crush in any sort of a consistent manner either. I also noticed that the bottom of the shot cup is driven somewhat into the drive-key bar that bisects the middle of the slug. As you can see here, the wad is seriously bent to one side. Not that they're ever in "good shape" after being fired, but it's got a definite lean to it. Here you can see how the bottom of the Fed. Bulk shot cup gets cut and blown open along the line of the bar of lead that makes up the Lee drive-key. And here's the damage from the inside. Some other issues: Since these are smoothbore drag-stabilized Foster-style slugs, 25 yards may not really allow them to "settle in". So I'll try my luck at 100 yards next time to see if they do any better, or don't actually spread 4x more at 4x the distance. At least none of them were keyholing or tumbling. These Lee slugs are seriously undersized to be load-able in a wide range of wad-types, and to be safe with a reasonable amount of choke. I was shooting these with my Polychoke flash-hider dialed to "Cylinder/Slug". I think I'll crank it down to IC/Improved Cylinder next time to see if that maybe strips the shot cup & wad off the slug a bit quicker and maybe improving accuracy as well. I'm not upset if the groups don't get any better, this was always just cheap plinking/blasting ammo anyway. And my reloads will be using a more substantial one-piece shot cup & wad. Now that I've got a supply of a few thousand once-fired Federal bulk hulls built up, I wont be converting bulk-pack anymore.
  8. AJ Dual

    Slugs For Cheap

    Solid slugs also reduce pressure over a shot load because the shot load tends to squeeze and grow sideways under it's own inertia as the gunpowder gasses begins to move it. This tends to grab and obdurate the bore more, and raises pressures as well. Although the larger the shot the less this happens. A solid slug won't do it at all, and it resists the pressure behind it less.
  9. AJ Dual

    Slugs For Cheap

    I haven't done any testing beyond 25 yards. And I only have the stock bead and buckhorn sights with it's short radius etc. I've got a PK-A on order and when it comes I intend to see what my "birdslugs" will do at 100 yards.
  10. The Lacquer Sticks at Brownell's are the proper item to use to fill in engravings like this. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/engraving-tools-supplies/inlay-color-fill-sticks/lacquer-stik--prod7778.aspx
  11. The best thing to polish it with is... ammo. That said, I just sat there in my workshop, put the buttstock down on a stool, and wailed on the bolt charging handle wearing a work glove, and would cycle it 100 times and take a break. After about 500 repetitions of that, I took it down, sprayed everything with carb cleaner, re-lubed with a spray of Rem-oil, and a drop of Mobil 1 on a few strategic places, then did it again a day or two later when I was passing through the basement to flip over laundry etc. I definitely see the benefit of a bolt profiling job, any time I forget myself and try to seat a magazine on a closed bolt, I'm reminded of why it's a useful mod. I don't know. Maybe I'm lucky. My Saiga ran about 90% with Federal bulk-pack 12ga out of the box after the hand-cycling and cleaning/relubing treatment for about 40 rounds, and then has been 100% ever since. I've actually fed it nothing else, except some Fiocchi high-brass buckshot at a bowling pin shoot. It's a 2008 3 port model. Ports are unobstructed, and well centered. All it ever shoots otherwise is 1oz Lee molded cast lead slugs, a cheap trap wad, whatever cheap 209 shotgun primers were around, Centurion/Rio/Wolf, and 17gr of clays. A rather mild "plinking slug" load.
  12. They're certainly not any sort of danger from a pressure standpoint. The risk comes in if the flare that's intended to exit just an inch or two of plastic barrel gets stuck in your long-barreled shotgun, or perhaps at the choke, and the incandescent flare keeps on burning away there, and the heat ruins the temper of the metal. The risk of that happening is low, and it's hard to say if such a thing happening would really ruin a shotgun barrel for sure, or just cause some cosmetic damage to the color of the finish where the flare got stuck.
  13. IS IZHMASH VODKA TOKEN. ONE TOKEN, ONE WORKER, ONE DAY, ONE BOTTLE. IS GOOD SOUVENIR OF RUSSIA. HOPE THAT WORKER GOT HIS BOTTLE.
  14. AJ Dual

    Slugs For Cheap

    Yes. My club is pretty "suburb locked" these days, and we shoot from 10am to local sunset. So I just go in at 9am and pick at the backstop berms. I don't dig into them beyond an inch or two so I'm not disturbing them or eroding them. I just do the short range 15-25 yard pistol berms because the farther rifle berms, most all of the bullets are traveling too fast and disintegrate, or bury themselves too deeply. The larger diameter and slower pistol bullets don't go as deep and continued shooting and rain etc. will turn them up. If the club's popular, they're just everywhere. Also, if there's any steel plate backstop around, there's usually a line of lead flake underneath that you can scrape up too. You just sort of get an eye for what's a bullet, and what's dirt/gravel/junk after a little while. I take it home in the bucket and I wash it. Shake it around so it rubs against itself and the dirt/mud/dust comes loose, dump the dirty water out, repeat until it's mostly clear. Then you want to let the lead dry. NEVER throw washed lead into a hot molten pot. The steam explosion blasting hot lead everywhere will not be fun. And could possibly maim you for life. If the moisture is really trapped, it's like a firecracker or a popcorn kernel going off at the bottom of your melting pot. You want to let the lead dry for a day or more, and then start the lead out in a COLD pot so any remaining trapped moisture is coming out at 200 degrees when the lead is still hard while your pot warms up, and not at 600 degrees or more when the lead is molten. Then all the copper jackets, any remaining junk and crud or oxide will float to the top. Skim it off with your casting ladle. I use a stainless steel tablespoon. I drilled a bunch of 1/32" holes in mine so the good lead can drip out, and the flaky crud or copper bullet jackets stays in the spoon to be dumped out. If you smoke the spoon with carbon black from a candle or a Bic lighter flame, the lead won't stick to the spoon at all. One thing to watch for is FMJ bullets that are 100% jacketed, even on the base, so the lead can't escape. Many of the bullets will break open on impact with the berm, or as they hit old bullets already in the berm or gravel in the dirt. However, some will be almost pristine, and before they go in the pot, you want to smash them with a hammer on a hard surface to crack/stretch open the copper jacket so the lead can drip out as it's melting. If you find one you missed in the pot, pull it out, set it aside and let it cool. Don't be tempted to smash it while it's hot. The copper is still hard, but the lead inside is molten. Pop... that would be bad. When picking up the bullets, you'll sometimes find many of the same kind from someone's shooting session. If you're lucky, you'll find a spot where someone who is a good shot was shooting lead-cast .45ACP's. They'll all be in one spot, and a nice 200-300 grains for every one you find. And being big, fat, and slow, not always flattened out or blown apart. I suppose the only thing better than that would be the folks who find these big 700gr slugs we're throwing back into the berms... As you stir and scrape the melt pot, anything that's not lead will/should float to the top. If it's heavier than lead... get your Geiger counter out... Or it's Tungsten, Platinum, or Gold... Kind of unlikely to find those in a gun range's berms. Once the pot is full, I use sawdust to flux it the first time, stirring it in and it'll smoke, until just carbon ash is on the top. Then after it's scraped up, I do it a second time with a pea sized chunk of candle wax, stirring it in, and being watchful for when the wax fumes combust. What I'm using for ingot molds right now are some old muffin pans that were getting too beat up and rusty. One word of advice, new muffin pans usually have polyester or teflon coatings for the non-stick properties. Old muffin pans have lots of rust, and hard polymerized sugar and grease on them. Either way, I recommend taking the pan outside, and burning it cherry red on the inside of the cups with a propane torch to burn these things off. Otherwise, the hot lead when you cast an ingot will do it, and with nowhere for the burning plastic or old oven grunge to go, that ingot will stick... badly. Ask me how I know... If you burn the cups clean, the ingots will fall right out. The downside to using a muffin pan for your ingots is that the ingots are almost too big for most 10lb electric pots. Especially if there's not already some lead in there high enough to contact the ingot and start it melting. The spout rod etc. gets in the way and it takes a long time to melt. If you can find one, a mini-muffin pan is better, or if you can find a "cornbread finger" pan, that actually has skinny corncob shapes in it, about the size of a big finger, the "corncob" ingots you'll make will slip into your melting pot much easier. Hmm... that's iffy. There's just not that much meat there in the aluminum center pin for the Lee slug mold. And further, it seems to be a pretty soft aluminum alloy they're using too. So I don't know that you're really saving anything by moving the steel up into the pin, rather than the tab on the mold arms that holds it. I think it would just fail there too. I just worked the little post of aluminum that holds the pin back into the steel flange, then I carefully closed the mold so the center pin was properly aligned in the left and right mold halves. I poured some lead in so everything inside would be as supported as possible. Knocked off the sprue the usual way then pushed the sprue plate back into place. I let the mold cool so the lead inside would be as hard as possible. Then keeping the mold closed with the lead slug inside it, I turned it upside down, and rested the steel sprue plate on the little anvil flat space of my bench vise. I took a hammer and carefully pounded the steel flange down further onto the aluminum pin, then peened the bit of the aluminum sticking up through the hole out. Then to further secure it, I used a spring loaded automatic center-punch pen ($2 Harbor Freight...) to put a dimple in the center and spread the aluminum a bit wider for more "grab" into the steel flange's hole. Then I opened the mold, and just turned it upside down over my melt pot, and melted the slug off the center pin with a propane torch. The Lee instructions are very clear to ONLY tap the large hinge bolt with your tapping rod or hardwood dowel when casting to get a slug to release. However, I don't think they really say what to do if you've got a slug stuck on the center pin/key really tight. Now that I've learned how much damage trying to tap stuck slugs directly off the pin, or pulling them off with pliers does to that pin, I'll only ever melt them off with the propane torch, and hopefully it'll never fail again. However, the mold is only what? $20, so if it's totally FUBAR, not too much out of pocket, and I bet Lee would fix it for you for a few dollars, or for free if you sent it in. I think they offer a service of honing those fine lines in the mold halves that let the air escape if they get worn. So they probably see abused molds all the time. However, if you're like me, you're casting up a bunch of slugs for a range day just 24-48 hours in advance, and you can't wait for Lee to fix it.
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