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AJ Dual

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Everything posted by AJ Dual

  1. This. With a nice clean and lubed G2 trigger group most everyone is running already as compliance parts, there's not really any call for this product. The G2 has a lighter pull, and a cleaner brake than most any factory AR15 trigger group as it is already.
  2. He means Obummer. And thanks for the ideas. I'll try the washer thing, since I never seem to have much luck with trying to re-contour or bending springs.
  3. I've searched the forum, but there's so much on just removing the BHO, or the dental floss string trick to get the spring to seat, or improving the spring notch in the BHO lever, I couldn't find more info. I've seen the Carolina Shooter's Supply BHO, and I know it's easier to install into the FCG, and doesn't need three hands to put in, what I'm looking for is to find if anyone knows if it or some other BHO is more reliable. Does anyone make a reliability enhanced BHO, or can confirm the CSS BHO won't slip out? I found the BHO convenient for seating full mags and drums, and would jus
  4. That means it will SHOOT THROUGH SCHOOLS, JUST LIKE THE .88 MAGNUM!
  5. That's an excellent video. Thanks for posting it! It's my own ass on the line and I won't advocate anything to anyone else, but I feel pretty safe testing stuff out in my Saiga and making substitutions that at least seem somewhat equivalent, or combinations that should reduce pressures. Like taking an oz and 1/8th load data and substituting a 1oz Lee slug, which is less weight, and less bore obduration because slugs resist swelling to the side under their own inertial like shot does etc. Add to that, the Saiga has a much thicker barrel profile than many common western sporting shotguns,
  6. AJ Dual

    Poly Chokes

    I have the flash hider version. So far it's been fine. Scrubbed some plastic and carbon out of it now and again. Next time I shoot my cheap reloaded Fed bulk-pack "birdslugs" I need to remember to crank down on it from cylinder/slug to IC and see if it strips off the wad a bit sooner and improves the accuracy of them any.
  7. I got the PK-A red-dot on my Saiga out at the range last week so I could take a stab at some actual groups and see what I'd get. The spread seems to be about 4-5" from my 1oz Lee birdslugs at 25yards. These were re-stuffed into virgin Federal bulk pack #8 hulls powder and wads from my original round of converted shells. I didn't really try super hard with my Caldwell rest, just the sandbags my club provides, but any other long-gun I shoot at 25 yards from a rest is practically one-hole, so I can tell I'm getting some extreme spread here. It's not me. I'm not very surprised. Seating dept
  8. Solid slugs also reduce pressure over a shot load because the shot load tends to squeeze and grow sideways under it's own inertia as the gunpowder gasses begins to move it. This tends to grab and obdurate the bore more, and raises pressures as well. Although the larger the shot the less this happens. A solid slug won't do it at all, and it resists the pressure behind it less.
  9. I haven't done any testing beyond 25 yards. And I only have the stock bead and buckhorn sights with it's short radius etc. I've got a PK-A on order and when it comes I intend to see what my "birdslugs" will do at 100 yards.
  10. The Lacquer Sticks at Brownell's are the proper item to use to fill in engravings like this. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/engraving-tools-supplies/inlay-color-fill-sticks/lacquer-stik--prod7778.aspx
  11. The best thing to polish it with is... ammo. That said, I just sat there in my workshop, put the buttstock down on a stool, and wailed on the bolt charging handle wearing a work glove, and would cycle it 100 times and take a break. After about 500 repetitions of that, I took it down, sprayed everything with carb cleaner, re-lubed with a spray of Rem-oil, and a drop of Mobil 1 on a few strategic places, then did it again a day or two later when I was passing through the basement to flip over laundry etc. I definitely see the benefit of a bolt profiling job, any time I forget myself a
  12. They're certainly not any sort of danger from a pressure standpoint. The risk comes in if the flare that's intended to exit just an inch or two of plastic barrel gets stuck in your long-barreled shotgun, or perhaps at the choke, and the incandescent flare keeps on burning away there, and the heat ruins the temper of the metal. The risk of that happening is low, and it's hard to say if such a thing happening would really ruin a shotgun barrel for sure, or just cause some cosmetic damage to the color of the finish where the flare got stuck.
  13. IS IZHMASH VODKA TOKEN. ONE TOKEN, ONE WORKER, ONE DAY, ONE BOTTLE. IS GOOD SOUVENIR OF RUSSIA. HOPE THAT WORKER GOT HIS BOTTLE.
  14. Yes. My club is pretty "suburb locked" these days, and we shoot from 10am to local sunset. So I just go in at 9am and pick at the backstop berms. I don't dig into them beyond an inch or two so I'm not disturbing them or eroding them. I just do the short range 15-25 yard pistol berms because the farther rifle berms, most all of the bullets are traveling too fast and disintegrate, or bury themselves too deeply. The larger diameter and slower pistol bullets don't go as deep and continued shooting and rain etc. will turn them up. If the club's popular, they're just everywhere. Also, if there's any
  15. Nothing that informative, but here's some pics... I went out early one morning and picked up some range lead at my club. I netted about 20lbs with 40 minutes of work. After separating out dirt, gravel, copper and brass jackets, I got about 17lbs of actual lead, and put it into ingots in an old muffin tin pan. Last night, I cast 200 1oz Lee slugs from that lead for a range outing this coming weekend. There's about 2-3lbs of lead left in my Lee melter. (You normally never want to let the lead all out, or down to the dross/crust, unless you're trying to clean the cup out.)
  16. I'd probably go for Remington Copper Solid sabot slugs. Although this would require a rifled Saiga 12 or Vepr, which is a rather rare bird, or more likely, just some other rifled slug shotgun. I'd probably want a gas operated autoloader and not a pump, and not an inertia locked Benelli either to avoid any chance of short-stroking, or if I have to fire it pinned up somewhere where I don't get enough recoil travel for it to cycle reliably. And an auto has an advantage, if God forbid, I had to use it one handed for some reason, like the 1% chance I could get another shot off mid-mauling. I wo
  17. No good for slugs, way to hard, you want a as soft a lead as you can get, pure is best.Boolit casters use a small bit of "type" lead in there lead mix to get a harder boolit. If you're doing the Lee 1oz mold or 7/8th oz mold, they're designed to ride in many shotcups as GunFun notes. And if you're shooting the slugs in a cylinder bore, or a Saiga 12 with at least a polychoke dialed out to cylinder, it doesn't matter at all. The slug will never contact anything in the bore. However, as noted, linotype is much harder, (makes sense, it has to be, when used as type/printing plates, if i
  18. You can compensate somewhat for buckshot made from an unknown or too soft alloy softness with buffer materials you fill the shot cup with. It supports the shot and keeps it from compressing/deforming while firing, and then disperses quickly leaving just the shot flying in the air. Usually it's plastic powder or tiny beads. I know reloaders also use Cream of Wheat cereal Farina, although it has a chance of swelling, or gluing together if left for long periods of time (years), or exposed to moisture before it's fired. http://www.ballisticproducts.com/BP-Original-Design-Buffer-500cc/prod
  19. UTG rail covers are always a nice touch.
  20. A sabot round generally has to be used in a rifled barrel. The sabot itself won't make the slug unstable, the lack of spin will. A smoothbore needs the Foster type slugs like your Lee molds provide so that they have a weight-forward distribution in the tip so that they're aerodynamically stable with drag like a badminton bird or a dart etc. One option for another weight forward design is the Lyman slug molds which are essentially an enormous airgun pellet in shape.
  21. I just want to say thanks to BLK-HWK-VET. His video on putting a Magpul 870 fore end on the Saiga got me going on this great mod! Mine was just a Dremel job, but the fit is great, and incredibly solid and tight. It fits so well, I'm going to have to test it with a range outing first to see if it actually moves on me at all. Pulling on it as hard as I can, it doesn't budge a bit, and I haven't felt the need to put the aluminum bar in for the receiver gap yet. Total time invested so far is just under an hour. I used coarse grit Dremel sanding drums to make the initial cut. I only ha
  22. That IS interesting. But only because of my other shotguns like my Mossberg 590 and Rem 870 I have as well... "Rifled" slugs don't get significant spin to them, and they still have to be weight-forward Foster style shuttlecocks to stabilize. The grooves allow them to swage with less velocity loss through tight forcing cones in some bores, and also pass through chokes easier. So possibly not much benefit for a Saiga which is usually cylinder bore, unless you've got a muzzle device choke on it, and I imagine most of us use adjustable polychoke style ones you can just crank out to cylin
  23. Oh well, just a thought. I had seen the PVC pipe cutter being used on other shotshell reloading threads in other forums, however it was to "reclaim the components" when the hull got FUBAR'ed and was deformed during reloading/crimping etc. And in that case, they were cutting just above the brass where the shotshell was much more supported, and were only interested in recovering the powder, primer, wad, and shot because the hull was already a loss. I thought it might work for snipping the end off cleanly, since others had already been dumping shot by plier-crusing the shot & wad area alr
  24. Good info there on the shot wad being slug incompatible. The Federal multipurpose 100 round Value-packs has a much more rudimentary two-piece shot cup and wad, The cup is completely smooth with four petals. The bottom is a bit tight for the slug and it wants to spring back up a bit, but it can be pushed down in there okay. The second part of the wad is just a straight cylindrical piston that kind of turns inside-out like a sock as it presses on the wad. Also, for you guys cutting the ends off your bulk-pack shells to dump the shot, rather than picking open the crimp, or the new (
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