AJ Dual
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Posts posted by AJ Dual
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He means Obummer.
And thanks for the ideas. I'll try the washer thing, since I never seem to have much luck with trying to re-contour or bending springs.
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I've searched the forum, but there's so much on just removing the BHO, or the dental floss string trick to get the spring to seat, or improving the spring notch in the BHO lever, I couldn't find more info.
I've seen the Carolina Shooter's Supply BHO, and I know it's easier to install into the FCG, and doesn't need three hands to put in, what I'm looking for is to find if anyone knows if it or some other BHO is more reliable.
Does anyone make a reliability enhanced BHO, or can confirm the CSS BHO won't slip out? I found the BHO convenient for seating full mags and drums, and would just rather use the BHO... if it worked, than going through the hassle to re-profile my bolt. I've done the mod with the deeper spring retaining notch, but I've still had the BHO slip it's spring, and also had it fall all the way up into the receiver and lock the bolt and FCG up on more than one occasion and have had to ditch it entirely for now.
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when I googled k12 it came up with kindergarten classes lol
That means it will SHOOT THROUGH SCHOOLS, JUST LIKE THE .88 MAGNUM!
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That's an excellent video. Thanks for posting it!
It's my own ass on the line and I won't advocate anything to anyone else, but I feel pretty safe testing stuff out in my Saiga and making substitutions that at least seem somewhat equivalent, or combinations that should reduce pressures. Like taking an oz and 1/8th load data and substituting a 1oz Lee slug, which is less weight, and less bore obduration because slugs resist swelling to the side under their own inertial like shot does etc.Add to that, the Saiga has a much thicker barrel profile than many common western sporting shotguns, it has a permanent barrel attachment through the trunnion interface etc, and a rotary locking bolt, as opposed to single tilting lug like Remington or Mossberg.
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I have the flash hider version. So far it's been fine. Scrubbed some plastic and carbon out of it now and again.
Next time I shoot my cheap reloaded Fed bulk-pack "birdslugs" I need to remember to crank down on it from cylinder/slug to IC and see if it strips off the wad a bit sooner and improves the accuracy of them any.
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I got the PK-A red-dot on my Saiga out at the range last week so I could take a stab at some actual groups and see what I'd get. The spread seems to be about 4-5" from my 1oz Lee birdslugs at 25yards. These were re-stuffed into virgin Federal bulk pack #8 hulls powder and wads from my original round of converted shells. I didn't really try super hard with my Caldwell rest, just the sandbags my club provides, but any other long-gun I shoot at 25 yards from a rest is practically one-hole, so I can tell I'm getting some extreme spread here. It's not me.
I'm not very surprised. Seating depth of the slugs in the wads is inconsistent, I've been too lazy to use a cardboard wad/riser card to fill the gaps for a more consistent depth like some in this thread have. And even if I pushed them all down, the slight taper of the Lee slug and that of the shot-cup probably makes the slug ride up a few millimeters under jostling/handling towards the front crimp of the shell anyway.
I think the problem is mainly the cheap two-piece Federal bulk-pack wads, it has a very thin cup, and then the plug and cylindrical spacer post that sits above the powder. For the first time, since I wasn't just shooting these for fun and to turn "money into noise", I picked some of the wads/cups up from the ground between the firing line and the target stands. They're always half-cut through on one edge and not the other, and the cylinder plug pieces don't really seem to petal out or bend or crush in any sort of a consistent manner either. I also noticed that the bottom of the shot cup is driven somewhat into the drive-key bar that bisects the middle of the slug.
As you can see here, the wad is seriously bent to one side. Not that they're ever in "good shape" after being fired, but it's got a definite lean to it.
Here you can see how the bottom of the Fed. Bulk shot cup gets cut and blown open along the line of the bar of lead that makes up the Lee drive-key.
And here's the damage from the inside.
Some other issues:
Since these are smoothbore drag-stabilized Foster-style slugs, 25 yards may not really allow them to "settle in". So I'll try my luck at 100 yards next time to see if they do any better, or don't actually spread 4x more at 4x the distance. At least none of them were keyholing or tumbling.These Lee slugs are seriously undersized to be load-able in a wide range of wad-types, and to be safe with a reasonable amount of choke. I was shooting these with my Polychoke flash-hider dialed to "Cylinder/Slug". I think I'll crank it down to IC/Improved Cylinder next time to see if that maybe strips the shot cup & wad off the slug a bit quicker and maybe improving accuracy as well.
I'm not upset if the groups don't get any better, this was always just cheap plinking/blasting ammo anyway. And my reloads will be using a more substantial one-piece shot cup & wad. Now that I've got a supply of a few thousand once-fired Federal bulk hulls built up, I wont be converting bulk-pack anymore.
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Opinion not needed. that is pretty much fact. Reducing payload reduces pressure, but not necessarily on a linear or predictable curve basis. Putting one oz in a recipe for 1 1/8 seems to be OK though. for 7/8 oz, you might look to higher velocity 1 oz load data.
There is some danger in reducing too much, as there might not be enough pressure to guarantee reliable ignition that will push the payload out the barrel every time.
Solid slugs also reduce pressure over a shot load because the shot load tends to squeeze and grow sideways under it's own inertia as the gunpowder gasses begins to move it. This tends to grab and obdurate the bore more, and raises pressures as well. Although the larger the shot the less this happens.
A solid slug won't do it at all, and it resists the pressure behind it less.
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I haven't done any testing beyond 25 yards. And I only have the stock bead and buckhorn sights with it's short radius etc. I've got a PK-A on order and when it comes I intend to see what my "birdslugs" will do at 100 yards.
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The OP still gets one point for not using Comic Sans...
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The Lacquer Sticks at Brownell's are the proper item to use to fill in engravings like this.
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The best thing to polish it with is... ammo.
That said, I just sat there in my workshop, put the buttstock down on a stool, and wailed on the bolt charging handle wearing a work glove, and would cycle it 100 times and take a break. After about 500 repetitions of that, I took it down, sprayed everything with carb cleaner, re-lubed with a spray of Rem-oil, and a drop of Mobil 1 on a few strategic places, then did it again a day or two later when I was passing through the basement to flip over laundry etc.
I definitely see the benefit of a bolt profiling job, any time I forget myself and try to seat a magazine on a closed bolt, I'm reminded of why it's a useful mod.
I don't know. Maybe I'm lucky. My Saiga ran about 90% with Federal bulk-pack 12ga out of the box after the hand-cycling and cleaning/relubing treatment for about 40 rounds, and then has been 100% ever since. I've actually fed it nothing else, except some Fiocchi high-brass buckshot at a bowling pin shoot. It's a 2008 3 port model. Ports are unobstructed, and well centered.
All it ever shoots otherwise is 1oz Lee molded cast lead slugs, a cheap trap wad, whatever cheap 209 shotgun primers were around, Centurion/Rio/Wolf, and 17gr of clays. A rather mild "plinking slug" load. -
They're certainly not any sort of danger from a pressure standpoint.
The risk comes in if the flare that's intended to exit just an inch or two of plastic barrel gets stuck in your long-barreled shotgun, or perhaps at the choke, and the incandescent flare keeps on burning away there, and the heat ruins the temper of the metal.
The risk of that happening is low, and it's hard to say if such a thing happening would really ruin a shotgun barrel for sure, or just cause some cosmetic damage to the color of the finish where the flare got stuck.
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IS IZHMASH VODKA TOKEN.
ONE TOKEN, ONE WORKER, ONE DAY, ONE BOTTLE.
IS GOOD SOUVENIR OF RUSSIA.
HOPE THAT WORKER GOT HIS BOTTLE.
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Great job AJ, thanks for the post. I want to ask, how are you able to gather the range lead, I mean the range has to be cold of course, do you just do it when no one is around?
Yes. My club is pretty "suburb locked" these days, and we shoot from 10am to local sunset. So I just go in at 9am and pick at the backstop berms. I don't dig into them beyond an inch or two so I'm not disturbing them or eroding them. I just do the short range 15-25 yard pistol berms because the farther rifle berms, most all of the bullets are traveling too fast and disintegrate, or bury themselves too deeply. The larger diameter and slower pistol bullets don't go as deep and continued shooting and rain etc. will turn them up. If the club's popular, they're just everywhere. Also, if there's any steel plate backstop around, there's usually a line of lead flake underneath that you can scrape up too.
You just sort of get an eye for what's a bullet, and what's dirt/gravel/junk after a little while.
I take it home in the bucket and I wash it. Shake it around so it rubs against itself and the dirt/mud/dust comes loose, dump the dirty water out, repeat until it's mostly clear. Then you want to let the lead dry. NEVER throw washed lead into a hot molten pot. The steam explosion blasting hot lead everywhere will not be fun. And could possibly maim you for life. If the moisture is really trapped, it's like a firecracker or a popcorn kernel going off at the bottom of your melting pot.
You want to let the lead dry for a day or more, and then start the lead out in a COLD pot so any remaining trapped moisture is coming out at 200 degrees when the lead is still hard while your pot warms up, and not at 600 degrees or more when the lead is molten.
Then all the copper jackets, any remaining junk and crud or oxide will float to the top. Skim it off with your casting ladle. I use a stainless steel tablespoon. I drilled a bunch of 1/32" holes in mine so the good lead can drip out, and the flaky crud or copper bullet jackets stays in the spoon to be dumped out. If you smoke the spoon with carbon black from a candle or a Bic lighter flame, the lead won't stick to the spoon at all.
One thing to watch for is FMJ bullets that are 100% jacketed, even on the base, so the lead can't escape. Many of the bullets will break open on impact with the berm, or as they hit old bullets already in the berm or gravel in the dirt. However, some will be almost pristine, and before they go in the pot, you want to smash them with a hammer on a hard surface to crack/stretch open the copper jacket so the lead can drip out as it's melting. If you find one you missed in the pot, pull it out, set it aside and let it cool. Don't be tempted to smash it while it's hot. The copper is still hard, but the lead inside is molten. Pop... that would be bad.
When picking up the bullets, you'll sometimes find many of the same kind from someone's shooting session. If you're lucky, you'll find a spot where someone who is a good shot was shooting lead-cast .45ACP's. They'll all be in one spot, and a nice 200-300 grains for every one you find. And being big, fat, and slow, not always flattened out or blown apart. I suppose the only thing better than that would be the folks who find these big 700gr slugs we're throwing back into the berms...
As you stir and scrape the melt pot, anything that's not lead will/should float to the top. If it's heavier than lead... get your Geiger counter out... Or it's Tungsten, Platinum, or Gold... Kind of unlikely to find those in a gun range's berms.
Once the pot is full, I use sawdust to flux it the first time, stirring it in and it'll smoke, until just carbon ash is on the top. Then after it's scraped up, I do it a second time with a pea sized chunk of candle wax, stirring it in, and being watchful for when the wax fumes combust.
What I'm using for ingot molds right now are some old muffin pans that were getting too beat up and rusty. One word of advice, new muffin pans usually have polyester or teflon coatings for the non-stick properties. Old muffin pans have lots of rust, and hard polymerized sugar and grease on them. Either way, I recommend taking the pan outside, and burning it cherry red on the inside of the cups with a propane torch to burn these things off. Otherwise, the hot lead when you cast an ingot will do it, and with nowhere for the burning plastic or old oven grunge to go, that ingot will stick... badly. Ask me how I know...
If you burn the cups clean, the ingots will fall right out.
The downside to using a muffin pan for your ingots is that the ingots are almost too big for most 10lb electric pots. Especially if there's not already some lead in there high enough to contact the ingot and start it melting. The spout rod etc. gets in the way and it takes a long time to melt. If you can find one, a mini-muffin pan is better, or if you can find a "cornbread finger" pan, that actually has skinny corncob shapes in it, about the size of a big finger, the "corncob" ingots you'll make will slip into your melting pot much easier.
Could you drill and tap the center pin for a Key-sert or a Heli-coil and use a 10-32 machine screw to hold the center pin to the metal tab?
Hmm... that's iffy. There's just not that much meat there in the aluminum center pin for the Lee slug mold. And further, it seems to be a pretty soft aluminum alloy they're using too. So I don't know that you're really saving anything by moving the steel up into the pin, rather than the tab on the mold arms that holds it. I think it would just fail there too.
I just worked the little post of aluminum that holds the pin back into the steel flange, then I carefully closed the mold so the center pin was properly aligned in the left and right mold halves. I poured some lead in so everything inside would be as supported as possible. Knocked off the sprue the usual way then pushed the sprue plate back into place. I let the mold cool so the lead inside would be as hard as possible. Then keeping the mold closed with the lead slug inside it, I turned it upside down, and rested the steel sprue plate on the little anvil flat space of my bench vise. I took a hammer and carefully pounded the steel flange down further onto the aluminum pin, then peened the bit of the aluminum sticking up through the hole out. Then to further secure it, I used a spring loaded automatic center-punch pen ($2 Harbor Freight...) to put a dimple in the center and spread the aluminum a bit wider for more "grab" into the steel flange's hole.
Then I opened the mold, and just turned it upside down over my melt pot, and melted the slug off the center pin with a propane torch.
The Lee instructions are very clear to ONLY tap the large hinge bolt with your tapping rod or hardwood dowel when casting to get a slug to release. However, I don't think they really say what to do if you've got a slug stuck on the center pin/key really tight. Now that I've learned how much damage trying to tap stuck slugs directly off the pin, or pulling them off with pliers does to that pin, I'll only ever melt them off with the propane torch, and hopefully it'll never fail again.
However, the mold is only what? $20, so if it's totally FUBAR, not too much out of pocket, and I bet Lee would fix it for you for a few dollars, or for free if you sent it in. I think they offer a service of honing those fine lines in the mold halves that let the air escape if they get worn. So they probably see abused molds all the time.
However, if you're like me, you're casting up a bunch of slugs for a range day just 24-48 hours in advance, and you can't wait for Lee to fix it.
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Nothing that informative, but here's some pics...
I went out early one morning and picked up some range lead at my club. I netted about 20lbs with 40 minutes of work.
After separating out dirt, gravel, copper and brass jackets, I got about 17lbs of actual lead, and put it into ingots in an old muffin tin pan.
Last night, I cast 200 1oz Lee slugs from that lead for a range outing this coming weekend. There's about 2-3lbs of lead left in my Lee melter. (You normally never want to let the lead all out, or down to the dross/crust, unless you're trying to clean the cup out.)
The new name for my "birdslugs" around the house is becoming "Cheese Balls".
And I now have 20 lbs of #8 shot that I've set aside for trade for more scrap lead with someone who reloads for trap shooting.
One thing I've noticed is my Lee slug mold is possibly on it's last legs after only about 1000 slugs over the past year. The center pin that makes the cross-bar and the hollow base has been falling out of the steel tab that holds it. I've repaired it a few times by working the little post back into the hole for the steel tab that holds it, Closing the mold tightly, then peening the aluminum wider than the hole with a hammer, then using an automatic spring-loaded center punch to spread the metal even further.
One thing I STRONGLY recommend is if you've got a slug stuck on the center pin of your Lee mold, and it won't come off easily with a few taps of the main bolt on the mold's hinge, that you MELT the slug off the center pin over your melt pot. DO NOT pull with pliers, pry with a screwdriver, or try to tap the slug directly off the center pin. The little aluminum stub that holds the center mold pin in it's steel tab is very weak, and will wear out and the whole pin will fall out of the mold.
The main reason the slug will stick to the center pin is probably that the mold hasn't gotten hot enough yet, if you use something like a Benz-o-Matic propane torch to melt the slug off the center pin back into the melt pot, it'll take the stuck slug off the center pin without any impact or stress. And using this method also has the added benefit of getting the center pin a bit hotter so the next slug is likely to drop free without fuss.
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I'd probably go for Remington Copper Solid sabot slugs. Although this would require a rifled Saiga 12 or Vepr, which is a rather rare bird, or more likely, just some other rifled slug shotgun. I'd probably want a gas operated autoloader and not a pump, and not an inertia locked Benelli either to avoid any chance of short-stroking, or if I have to fire it pinned up somewhere where I don't get enough recoil travel for it to cycle reliably. And an auto has an advantage, if God forbid, I had to use it one handed for some reason, like the 1% chance I could get another shot off mid-mauling.
I would also want a Trijicon SRS. The wide 38mm FOV and short body tube gives you good target awareness, and the light-pipe/tritium dot is important because you have no time to futz with a switch or knob. Although I know you could probably leave an Aimpoint on for months/years at a time etc. too.
WIth the Rem Copper Solid sabot slug, you get the large diameter .62 or so, still bigger than any common centerfire rifle, and they have better sectional density than a traditional lead slug. The hollow point petals will unfold, but the remainder of the slug will "keep on truckin". The hardness of the copper should stand up better to any bone in the way too. The ones I find in my club's berms when scouting for range lead are nasty on the tip, but the rest of it is surprisingly pristine, and this is even after going into a few feet of dry clay, and busting some limestone rocks/gravel along the way.
Big hole AND a deep hole.
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No good for slugs, way to hard, you want a as soft a lead as you can get, pure is best.What's Linotype lead worth per pound? There's a local Craig's List ad selling it for $2 per pound which is higher than "regular" lead. I'm guessing it's better for rifle or pistol bullets...is it worth the extra price for slugs?
Boolit casters use a small bit of "type" lead in there lead mix to get a harder boolit.
If you're doing the Lee 1oz mold or 7/8th oz mold, they're designed to ride in many shotcups as GunFun notes. And if you're shooting the slugs in a cylinder bore, or a Saiga 12 with at least a polychoke dialed out to cylinder, it doesn't matter at all. The slug will never contact anything in the bore.
However, as noted, linotype is much harder, (makes sense, it has to be, when used as type/printing plates, if it squished in the press and deformed, it wouldn't be of any use...) and it's what rifle and pistol shooters who cast often want as an additive to harden the alloy to prevent excess leading of their bores. Or to make bullets that can withstand higher velocities and spin/twist rates without disintegrating in flight. Hard Linotype slugs that will be fired in a cylinder bore that rides in a cup aren't a problem, but it is a waste of money. Just like the trap shooters who've been pleading with us to trade our 7.5 and 8 shot for their scrap lead, even offering trades of 1 to 1.5, maybe even 2 to 1, instead of us melting it. If you score some Linotype, it would make for good trade material with other shooters for softer scrap lead, possibly at greater than 1:1 by weight as well.
I don't know what a good price for Linotype is, but I'd say that I don't think I'd pay much more than $.80/lb for reasonably clean scrap lead. I'd pay less for range lead that's got dirt and bullet jackets in it, or wheel weights with their metal clips, especially if there's zinc weights mixed in I'd have to sort out. Zinc, if it does get in and alloys with the lead, will ruin your lead perhaps permanently. Some claim you can separate a lead/zinc alloy with very careful and repetitive re-melting, and fluxing over and over to separate it out. But if it's an alloy, where there's electron sharing between the two different metals, I'm not so sure that's true.
If you don't know for sure what a slug will be fired in and especially if they're full shotgun bore diameter, and riding a wad, and not in a cup, then pure soft lead is safest and what you want, because commercial lead slugs are designed to pass an IC Improved Cylinder and M Modified chokes without damaging the gun.
If you know you're making Saiga blasting/plinking slugs that will only ride in a wad cup in a shotgun with no choke, than any alloy is fine, as long as it's cheap, and it pours and casts nicely. Now that I'm saving all the #8 shot from my Fed bulk pack for trade, I've been using range lead scavanged off the ground from my gun club. As long as it pours well, it's good to go for my Saiga. And that's one reason I started my casting with slugs, because within reason, I didn't have to worry about precise alloy ratios or hardness testing. That, and slugs are expensive of course.
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You can compensate somewhat for buckshot made from an unknown or too soft alloy softness with buffer materials you fill the shot cup with. It supports the shot and keeps it from compressing/deforming while firing, and then disperses quickly leaving just the shot flying in the air.
Usually it's plastic powder or tiny beads. I know reloaders also use Cream of Wheat cereal Farina, although it has a chance of swelling, or gluing together if left for long periods of time (years), or exposed to moisture before it's fired.
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/BP-Original-Design-Buffer-500cc/productinfo/BUFFER/
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UTG rail covers are always a nice touch.
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A sabot round generally has to be used in a rifled barrel. The sabot itself won't make the slug unstable, the lack of spin will. A smoothbore needs the Foster type slugs like your Lee molds provide so that they have a weight-forward distribution in the tip so that they're aerodynamically stable with drag like a badminton bird or a dart etc.
One option for another weight forward design is the Lyman slug molds which are essentially an enormous airgun pellet in shape.
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I just want to say thanks to BLK-HWK-VET. His video on putting a Magpul 870 fore end on the Saiga got me going on this great mod! Mine was just a Dremel job, but the fit is great, and incredibly solid and tight. It fits so well, I'm going to have to test it with a range outing first to see if it actually moves on me at all. Pulling on it as hard as I can, it doesn't budge a bit, and I haven't felt the need to put the aluminum bar in for the receiver gap yet.
Total time invested so far is just under an hour.
I used coarse grit Dremel sanding drums to make the initial cut. I only have a single speed unit, if anyone goes this route, I recommend using a variable speed tool, and going with as slow an RPM as possible to avoid melting/smoking the plastic. It STINKS, probably isn't healthy for you, and it will clog up the grit on the sanding drum. (You can see the clogged drum with about a 1/8" thick coating of plastic on it.)
Here it is opened up, you can see more of the drums I sacrificed in the process. Then I trued up the edges of the cut with a sharp wood chisel, and then a toothed mill-file. The Magpul plastic is some seriously hard stuff (for plastic) and things like files/rasps will work well on it.
Instead of going for a set width or measurements I just kept test-fitting as I filed, until I got a really tight snap-in fit. The lower tubular part that would have grabbed the slide and action bars on the 870 gets a very nice tight fit around the Saiga's barrel. And the two "rails" left over from the inner tube you need to cut open butt up against the forward gas block/FSB on my Saiga perfectly preventing it from sliding forward. And these rails grab into the gap between the gas piston tube and the barrel nicely. It really does not want to move in any direction unless you lever it open and bend the entire fore end like spreading a... er.. taco.
With this much contact on the barrel, I do think heat might be an issue if I'm doing lots of mag-dumps, and if it is, I'll just widen everything up, and add in the piece of 1/8" x 1/2" aluminum bar-stock into the bottom groove, and bend it to fit into the receiver gap under the barrel, and drill/tap it for a button-head hex screw, so it rides on that and the gas-block screw instead.
And here she is in all her glory.
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That IS interesting. But only because of my other shotguns like my Mossberg 590 and Rem 870 I have as well...
"Rifled" slugs don't get significant spin to them, and they still have to be weight-forward Foster style shuttlecocks to stabilize. The grooves allow them to swage with less velocity loss through tight forcing cones in some bores, and also pass through chokes easier.
So possibly not much benefit for a Saiga which is usually cylinder bore, unless you've got a muzzle device choke on it, and I imagine most of us use adjustable polychoke style ones you can just crank out to cylinder anyway.
Granted I can remove chokes in my other shotguns, but being the traditional internal style requiring a wrench or spanner, it's a PITA, and being able to shoot my slugs through them in a pinch without having to worry about bulging a barrel or choke would be handy.
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FYI, I have tried a hand held pipe cutter and it simply crushes the shell instead of cutting it. I don't know why since I bought it new an dpresumeably sharp, but I couldn't get it to work on shotgun shells.
Oh well, just a thought. I had seen the PVC pipe cutter being used on other shotshell reloading threads in other forums, however it was to "reclaim the components" when the hull got FUBAR'ed and was deformed during reloading/crimping etc. And in that case, they were cutting just above the brass where the shotshell was much more supported, and were only interested in recovering the powder, primer, wad, and shot because the hull was already a loss.
I thought it might work for snipping the end off cleanly, since others had already been dumping shot by plier-crusing the shot & wad area already. Oh well.
Kineti-Dump® in it's infancy:
1-3/4"x10" black steel pipe (handle)
2-3/4" black caps
1-3/4"x3" nipple (shot end)
1-3/4"x3" brass nipple (shell end) the brass was closer to fitting the o.d. of the shell
1-3/4" brass cap (over the shell)
2-garden hose washers for the brass cap to keep shell from bouncing
Worked very well with one good solid hit to a solid surface. Be sure to tighten the shot end nipple and cap very securely
This is beautiful work.
Now I'm just thinking aloud as to how it could be made even "faster" since screwing and unscrewing the cap holding the shell base in for the down-swing would be a bit time-consuming. Something like interrupted threads? Or maybe grinding down that end-cap so only 1-2 turns of the thread actually need engage, since the down-swing retention isn't very stressed.
I'd probably want both methods. The kinetic pipe fitting hammer for the workshop, but still pick hulls open with an awl, because I can do that quietly sitting next to Mrs. Dual watching TV, so I'm not in the basement workshop "ignoring her" and getting in the doghouse.
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Good info there on the shot wad being slug incompatible.
The Federal multipurpose 100 round Value-packs has a much more rudimentary two-piece shot cup and wad, The cup is completely smooth with four petals. The bottom is a bit tight for the slug and it wants to spring back up a bit, but it can be pushed down in there okay.
The second part of the wad is just a straight cylindrical piston that kind of turns inside-out like a sock as it presses on the wad.
Also, for you guys cutting the ends off your bulk-pack shells to dump the shot, rather than picking open the crimp, or the new (genius!) kinetic hammer design pipes, because you'd rather do a roll crimp,,, a PVC pipe cutter might be just the thing to cleanly snip the crimp end of the shell off, rather than drilling or sawing each one.
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/pvc-pipe-tubing-cutter.jpg
Has anybody seen or played with one of these triggers?
in Saiga-12
Posted
This. With a nice clean and lubed G2 trigger group most everyone is running already as compliance parts, there's not really any call for this product. The G2 has a lighter pull, and a cleaner brake than most any factory AR15 trigger group as it is already.