AJ Dual

87

If it really is lead, then a copper or brass "Chore Boy" pot scrubber from the supermarket pushed through ahead of a mop or brush on the cleaning rod will get most all of it out, and not damage the barrel steel.

Slugs have always traditionally been made from very soft almost pure lead so they can squeeze down easily if shot through a choke. Your best bet is to find a slug that rides inside a wad/shot cup.

Spot price varies from day to day, but yeah, between $1 and $1.50 per pound. Maybe less if it's scrap lead with other stuff in it, corrosion, steel or other metals mixed in. Everyone supposedly goes with wheel weights from car mechanics and tire shops, but most all of them "already have a deal with a guy" it seems, and lead wheel weights are on their way out in favor of zinc, or high density polymers anyway. Just call around to local metal recyclers.

We're at the exact same spot. I cranked it up to 9 because I was melting down some range led with mixed in half-smashed copper jackets and some gas-checks, and a fair amount of dross, even after giving the lead a good wash. I flux with sawdust at 9 and skim the dross (carbon and non-lead impurities the ash soaks up). Then I turn it down to a bit above setting 6 flux it with a pea-sized chunk of wax picked off an old candle. Then I cast about 6-7 "uglies" (wrinkled or partially filled slugs because the mold is yet too cold) that get tossed right back into the pot, and then they start dumping ou

De-crimping is kind of an art form. I just stab a sharp awl in the center of the crimp, and pry upward to get the first fold up. Then I make little digging prying motions going upward around the shell in a counter-clockwise motion (Federals are crimped clockwise) to pry up the other folds. The trick is to keep the sharp tip in the shot, and only bend at the crimp folds with the smooth sides of the awl's shaft. I have ZERO idea of how you'd get a roll-crimp out without just firing the shell. What I do only works on star-crimps. It sounds tedious, and sort of is, however, you get kind

The Lee 1oz 12ga shotgun slug mold, and Lee 10lb production pot. Both products would be kind of lower-end for hardcore reloaders, but for my purposes work just great. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=637732&cm_mmc=Froogle-_-Reloading%20-%20Bullet%20Casting-_-PriceCompListing-_-637732 http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=792313&cm_mmc=Froogle-_-Reloading%20-%20Bullet%20Casting-_-PriceCompListing-_-792313

I have a vent fan above my work bench. There's an old dryer vent still there from when the washer and dryer were still on that side of the house from previous owners. However, "lead fumes" is a bit of a misnomer. I'm using that fan to vent the smoke and smells from fluxing the lead with sawdust and then a second time with wax. The boiling point of lead is something like 3100 degrees. Boil = vapor. The melt is stewing at a rather sedate 700 degrees, give or take. The lead exposure issues from casting come from lead flakes and dust that get around from drips, tiny splashes when dumping more

Exactly. However, I'm going to reload the hulls at least once. Doing this produces a moderate/mild slug load for $.23 a slug. (Wallyworld bulk $22.95/100 plus my time which I count as "free" to myself.) I know the Federal bulk has a cheap-ish paper base under the aluminum "brass", so I don't know if they're good for more than one reloading or not. When that comes, I'll be producing them for rougly $.16 a shell, factoring primers, lead, wads, and powder and the "free" once fired hull.

These will be low recoil. They're going right back into loaded Federal Bulk pack. The first pack of 100 I did cycled my then-unfired at about 95%, and were at 100$ by the end of the shooting session. Making it through the last 25 without any stovepipes or failures. My range requires slugs on the firing line to preserve the target hangers, and other than going with a complete reload from components, this is about as cheap as I can make a slug.

A bunch of #8 shot of indeterminate usefulness, and pick-up range lead now has a new lease on life... for awhile.

The Nobelsport .65 ball is about the cheapest factory loaded 12ga solid projectile out there that I've found, @ $.38 a round, not counting shipping. The cheapest I've been able to do so far on 12ga slugs is converting Federal bulk pack 1 1/8th oz #8 shot @ $.23 a round into 1oz slugs. I pick the slugs open, dump the shot into the melter, using a Lee production pot, roughly $60, the Lee 12ga Foster type slug mold, roughly $20, and then just drop the slug into the trap wad and re-crimp them shut with the Lee Load-All II, which is approximately $40. I don't have a chrony, but I es

Well... I guess it would make a nice monopod..

Nothing special as compared to some of the rigs here... But this one is mine. Completed the conversion three weeks ago. This is the CSS conversion kit with a Tromix screw-in trigger guard, Tapco SAW grip, Ace stock & folder block/trunnion adaptor, and a Tromix modified Tapco G2 FCG. I still want to do something about the sights, maybe HK style, and some kind of micro red-dot/reflex sight. CSS polychoke/flash hider, and maybe something with the fore end too.

The Centurion deal at SGA is about the best deal going on high brass slugs that actually have some oomph. Walmart bulk birdshot (roughly $55 per 250 although not sold in that quantity) converted to slugs with your own smelter pot, and reloading press is probably the cheapest. ( Not counting $60 for a Lee load-all II, $40 for a melter, $20 for a mold) I'm aware that Wally has the individual boxes that come out to just under $20 per 100, but those are only 1oz loads, the value pack is 1 1/8th oz of shot, which is nice, it gives you a buffer margin to fill the 1oz Lee mold in my example, and

Shot spreaders have two uses as I see them. 1. Riots. You have a mass of people on the ground, and you're not so concerned with killing them, as you are with stopping their advance and turning them around. A horizontal spread of shot will injure/disable/hurt multiple people better than a circular shot pattern will. 2. Jungle ambush. You have a general area of where the ambush is coming from, but you may not have an exact location. You want a wider horizontal spread into the brush to get the enemy's head down, and disrupt his fire so your group can return fire, or skedaddle.

OK ill bite , whats a duck bill spreader , would you find it on the shelf next to the re-bar strecher or the sky hook , or is it over by the 10 penny toe nails ? http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=3&f=123&t=528645

I can't blame them for trying., However, IMO "V" called, (The original mini-series from the 1980's) and they want their prop back.

Pricey and kind of hard to get your hands on one, I think you need to install one of these in the bottom under the floorplate, then get a longer spring.

If I become a "contributing member" can I tell people to "eat baby dicks" too?

Very unlikely. "Steel" is a term that covers such a wide array of iron/carbon/xyz alloys that you've got the entire range of stuff that's so soft like a paper clip you could wind around your finger, to a drill bit or stuff that's even harder for specific kinds of machine tools. Your extractor is several times harder than the base metal of the shell. This is the same answer for people who worry about steel case rifle and pistol ammo. There might be a mismatch between bore obturation and chamber "grip" that might adversely affect certain kinds of actions, like a pure blowback acti

AFAIK, the cheaper boxes were 1oz and the bulk packs were 1 1/8th, so there is a little more lead in the bulk packs. So at current spot prices of lead, with an extra 12.5oz of lead in the bulk pack vs. 4 of the individual boxes, that's about $.90 of the difference. And presumably the same powder load would push 1/8th less lead faster too. So there's probably some factor of how stores actually price the bulk packs of things higher going on too. Does anyone know if they're the same cheapo hulls and aluminum "brass" as the bulk pack too?

I'll second the idea that no one is championing the idea of wearing tac-vests for home defense. Although donning body armor, if you have time (dogs, alarms, a big house?) certainly won't hurt. Yes, the reality of simply showing up with a gun with even just one round in it will end 90%+ of any self defense/home invasion. Crime by it's nature is an opportunistic path-of-least-resistance endeavor, and more often than not, a pissed off victim with a gun is more than enough to end things right quick. However, if you're old enough to remember the 1960's, or the L.A. Rodney King riots, you

I've converted 100 unfired Federal bulk pack 1 1/8th #8's into 1oz slugs using the Lee mold, production pot, and Lee Load-All II. The Lee slugs drop right into the trap style shot wad, and the extra 1/8th oz per shell leaves you with 11 more bonus slugs. The Lee slug has a drive key/bar right across the hollow skirt so it's supported even for center-post type wads meant for shot. I'm doing this because the rifle line at my club only allows slugs/single pumpkin ball loads on the rifle/pistol lines. The main challenge is you have to bell out the crimp a bit to allow the slug to pass, since