scott.gwin

Good point, Paulie. I added this butt stock before the arm was really broken in and I had some cycling problems. That all worked itself out by the time I had run 300 - 350 rounds through it. Also, it helps that my S-12 is properly gassed and will cycle low power Wallyworld stuff. If your gun is not yet broken in, is under gassed or on the borderline, and/or has a sticky bolt this stock can cause problems. If that happens I think the first thing to do after getting it completely broken in is to have the bolt and carrier polished by someone that you can get good recommendations on. Paulie

OK, problem solved. Yes, it was stopping just where it could fire without the bolt being completely closed. I took a dremel to the bolt and smoothed off a couple of sharp edges, cleaned everything once again and lubrigated it with medium Slide-Glide. After that I fired several diferent loads from Walmart cheapie stuff to 3" Magnum 00 Buckshot and did so with different magazines like a 5-round stick, 10-round stick, 10-round drum and 20-round drum and didn't have any problems at all and I shot nearly 100 rounds that day. After having this positive experience with slide-glide I've cleaned

I too have a Mako Group GL-Shock and love it. I no problems with it jumping around and I can shoot 3" Magnums all say with no pain. Like Jbanda1213 said I have a nice trigger job on mine and it will bumpfire if I do everything just right.

Worn lock up lugs are also a possibility. If that's the issue it sure isn't obvious. I'm out of ideas and will have a local AK/Saiga guy look at it. Thanks again everyone.

GunFun - that's what I had always thougt. OK, back to looking for less obvious things. I guess it's time to look at everything for the umteenth time.... It has me stumped so maybe I need to go shoot a variety of loads through all my magazines all over again and even try every variation on a couple of different gas valve settings. I have a gut feeling that, in the end, having Pauly polish the bolt and carrier is going to fix the problem but that still won't tell me what changed to make this issue surface.

I appreciate all the input. The only way it could get cleaner would be if I were to put the while thing in an ultrasonic cleaner. And I am going to try lubricating everything with slode-glide lite. I started using it on my Sig Sauer P229 and it made a noticeable difference in how smooth everything seems to function. Sneaky, if you close your bolt and stop approx 1/2" short you'll see where the extractor first makes contact. It enters a slot about 3/4" long before it actually makes contact with the first and only thing it makes contact with - that's when the bolt tends to get hung up. I

I sppreciate all the info. I forgot to mention that this happens when shooting ( 1 of 10 rounds ) and when hand cycling. It happens even after the gun is very clean and seems to happen with any magazine or load. I will look harder at everything and look for wear, etc. Thanks again all.

I've had this 12 for well over a year now and it's always been very reliable until fairly recently. Much too often the bolt has been stopping it's forward movement just about when the extractor comes in contact with the notch in the chamber. I have a multi-adjustable gas valve and shoot many kinds of loads; mostly 1oz slugs. I haven't noticed if this problem is more apparent on different settings or with different loads - I think it happens independent of those variables. My first thought it to add a stiffer recoil spring but haven't located one yet. I may have to go to a spring maker in

I chose a stock from Mako Security and am verry happy with my decision ( http://www.makosecurity.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GL-SHOCKCP&Category_Code=_STKS ) With that stock I use a Tapco MIL-SPEC tube and an ace folding setup. This way I have an adjustable folding stick with a shock absorber and adjustable cheek rest. I don't think it can be beat. Actually, I've used the same setup on my AK-47 Draco pistol SBR conversion. It's not cheap but money wasn't my first concern.

I have a fairly modified S12 that has had several hundred rounds run through it and I am still having failure to feed issues. What happens is the bolt stops closing aprox. 1/2" from being completely closed. This happens with all loads and with any gas port setting. I'm going to send it in to a guy that specializes in bolt polishing; I think he calls it 'glass bolt". Anyway, this is being done mostly for cosmetic reasons but it might also help with my problem. If this doesn't help the issue can anyone point me to what I should be looking at and how I might resolve this issue? Aside from th

I found a S12 that's being sold very cheap without the bolt assembly. I don't know yet what he means by bolt assembly, but for now I'll assume he means bolt and carrier. What I'm asking is this: does anyone know where I can purchase a bolt and carrier?

S12 with EOTech EXPS 3-2.

Here's mine. EOTech EXPS3-2 mounted scout style up front. I chose this for many reasons; primarily for stability and I like long eye relief with red dots; it helps with peripheral vision.

I have a EOTech EXPS3-2 mounted on a rail that is attached at the front and rear iron sights. This red dot has a circle and 2 red dots. The lower dot can be used for compensation for slug drop at longer distances. I mainly shoot Remington Slugger 2 3/4" 1oz slugs with surprising accuracy at 50 and 100 yards. On a regular basis I can get 4" groups at 50 yards with this setup. I highly recommend this or any EOTech Red Dot sight. The main difference between the different models is really going to come down to personal preference. I like that the EXPS line only require one battery that is t

I shoot a lot of slugs through my 19" BBL with surprising accuracy. 2 3/4" 1oz. Remington Sluggers seem to behave better than anything else. This shotgun has had many modifications: some for reliability and some just for personal preference. Right now it has a Tromix Monster Competition Muzzle Brake on it. The combination of a 19" BBL and that heavy brake makes this weapon very front heavy. For that reason I've considered a few options and all include shortening the gas system and BBL. Here's my question: should I expect the accuracy to change substantially if I shorten it down to wher