csspecs

Magazines count as 3 parts if you replace 1 part from your gun your good to go and don't need to mess with anything. It's not like the ATF is going around busting people for 922r violations. If you want something to go on your threads you can also buy a poly choke adjustable choke, it's made in USA so it's not going to hurt your parts count.

I use my normal brass brush for cleaning the barrel and the plastic one for the gas tubes.

What brand of bits are you using? I use Blu-Mol bits from home-depot, I find them to work ok but I buy a couple packs ever time I do a project just in case. If your drill bit is not moving some metal in a timely fashion you need to replace it.

Clean? Uhh whats that? If I use brown bear or any other cheap ammo I clean it within a week of shooting it (they seem to be a little bit corrosive). Maybe every 90 rounds or so, I just run a brush down the bore and wipe off the big hunks of crap then I'm done.

I think your going to find that modding one to fit is the only way it will work.

Thanks, it's holding up fine. It's a bit lighter than a wood stock and it fits me quite well. It should count as a US made part because it is cut up and put together using US made pipe that makes up the majority of the part(I don't use it though).

The one on the far right has a stock made from the factory rifle stock and pvc pipe.

Does any law state anything other than that it must have a barrel over 16 and an overall of 26 or more, whats the differance between that and a bullpup kit, or a folding stock. Just keep your over all, over 26 inches. Just like you would with a pistol grip only shotgun.

Great, now we need these "Cheap" AK-74 magazines back. If anyone wants to trade galil orlites for 5.45 magazines I have a two with me right now and have another three up north, I bought them "new" and maybe put 2-4 loads through them. My wasr-2 wants more mags and I can't find good ones.

Even the fudds won't bite on something like that.

Not things I would want to hear from another dude Anyway I'm going to need to do something like that, what I have is getting out of hand.

He is talking about this. I have a Tapco T6 on my S-12, I don't find it to be useful at all. Whats the point of changing your length of pull, I have yet to find it very useful. Normal length AK stocks are very versatile. http://www.ifatactical.com/files/1772952/u...68747b_kt_m.jpg

If your talking to me, first it's paint not wallpaper. And my sister HAD to try it, so the computer room got this ugly crap that I'm going to have to paint over with maybe five coats of killz just to hide it. I'm thinking gray on the walls...

Just wanted to point out that you want to make sure your front trigger will pull the wire enough to pull the real trigger. The longer you make the arm on the trigger the stiffer but shorter a trigger pull that you will have. The trigger arm needs to be longer than a tapco G2 trigger by about a healthy 1/4 inch. Since I had 922r more than taken care of I used the stock saiga trigger and added a L shaped arm to it. I am still looking for a wire that I like, I am using some stainless steel but it is to soft to stay in the shape I want. If you are doing something different for the trigger

I made two sets a year or so ago. They worked fairly well, had some trouble with the front "retainer" pin but I think anyone that has ever worked on saiga forearms knows what I'm talking about. My first try http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/csspecs/40600102.jpg With a darker red finish http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/css...wholefamily.jpg A metal butt stock http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/css...aigaMIstock.jpg Self explanatory http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/csspecs/IMG_1735.jpg A WASR-2 that I HAD to fix by epoxying the "wood" and painting. http://img.ph

Remember AKs are best run a little on the dry side. I don't oil ANYTHING on mine, just a wipe with a slightly oiled cloth. Wolf ammo has a lot of residue, if you have a bunch of oil for that crap to stick to you are going to have a real mess. If the gun is fairly dry the residue will just drift away as you keep shooting instead of building up. One thing that is great is a little touch of moly paste on the receiver rails, mine have 750+ rounds on them and still have most of the paint. Remember just a little and then wipe it back off leaving just the slightest film.

1934 In honor of the year we really got screwed.

Ka-var had a bullpup kit for AKs, it had a number of issues with it mostly relating to the triggers and the linkage particularly at the front trunnion just in front of the magazine. If anyone comes up with a sure fire way of making an AK bullpup I would like to buy one. Mine measures 27 over all with a 16 inch barrel, So without going SBR it's not getting any shorter. I have not had a chance to shoot mine much (I test fired a few rounds but thats it). I plan to shoot it tomorrow afternoon, my mig welders valve broke so some of the welds on it are just burned slag so I have to fix the w

The 20s are easier to convert as they have a standard mag catch, all you do is spin the trigger guard around and weld to the magazine catch. With the saiga-12 you need to attach the trigger guard to the receiver in some sort of creative way. Also that I know of the saiga shotgun has never been banned, I begged my dad to buy one in the late 90s and 2000 when they went for 200.00 at dunhams. Oh well, I got what I wanted later anyway Me and my brother have used 12s and 20s together for years with no problem, you would almost need to be brain dead to load a 20 into a saiga-12. We have nev

Do you have a 2 3/4 inch magazine or just the 3 inch? If you only have the three inch you will need to glue a shim to your follower, just a normal shim like they sell at home depot or lowes by the doors and windows in packs of 100 (little wedges of pine). All you do is take your magazine apart and cut it to match your follower. Test the wedge BEFORE glueing it in Your mileage may and likely will vary.

I have a bull pup that I built/am building, the linkage is a tad more of a pain than you would think. It's made out of steel (square tube for part of the buttstock and the front stock is uni-strut). I am going to mount a red dot on a scout mount or by welding a side mount onto the front stock and using a normal AK side mount rail. I am working on a fish lip wire cutting muzzle device. The triangle part of the stock is not covering anything, the trigger is flush with the bottom of the receiver. The only reason it's there is to toughen the stock (you could beat a troop of baboons to death wi

Well saigas are a good way to do a AK build, it is about the same price when it's all said and done and you have a new barrel. I have seen people hunting with stock saigas, so they are out there. Logically someone who is just going to hunt with the rifle is not going to have much to talk about regarding the rifle (no "will this work" topics).

The whole thing with the Atkin's Accelerator is that it is a machine gun, you only held the trigger still and it fired..... It's been that way since 1934 nothing changed, the ATF messed up when they allowed the thing to be sold in the first place. You have to have an active part in the rifle firing such as cranking pulling pushing or something. I will have to make a video of how to twitch fire (I'll call it that until I come up with a better name). Basically you tighten the muscles in you arm until it shakes and then stick you finger in the trigger gaurd.... Then hang on for the ride!

Hey it will eat Indian OFV 98 headstamp..... It's that tough.

Could be a post dealer sample.... Then it is basically worthless. It would also explain what he is trying to show, that you can just keep shooting until they catch fire and then some. I don't see any cases when he is shooting, so either they are just not showing up on the video or it's a faked video.