tStreets

Not that easy... You need to first be a member of the CMP to order from them. That entails qualifying at a local shooting club that is registered with the CMP... Or know someone that is a CMP member and a C&R license holder and have the rifle shipped directly to your friend's house. I shot one for the first time about a month ago. She was an original Winchester Garand made in 1941.

The thing is that usually people sell ammonia into this process as a "salt neutralizer" which it does not do. Neutralization reactions are acid and bases and not salts. Keeping windex sitting in a barrel for hours is allowing it to work its corrosion on steel or chrome. Boiling hot water for a quick flush is a much better salt removal treatment. Carbon residue is much easier cleaned with non-water bearing cleaners. In chemistry it is taught that like dissolves like, carbon and water and not alike. Carbon based solvents like nonpolar oil based ones dissolve carbon properly. Windex does more

People...STOP SPRAYING THE GUN WITH WINDEX! The rust you got has nothing to do with the ammo. If you just left it alone, you wouldn't have had any rust whatsoever. The Windex is actually what's causing the rust. You're adding moisture to the gun and then letting it sit. Any gun would do this with any kind of ammo. The Windex is 100% useless. It's literally doing much more harm than good. Leave the gun alone until you're actually ready to clean it properly. I can only say that water mixed with 20% ethanol is a better option than windex alone. The high alcohol content evaporates easier an

That caked on black stuff is NOT corrosive... The primers are the main culprit. The black tar is carbon residue from the burning of the powder. The powder is non-corrosive. You need to literally scrape those deposits off with a flat head (I use the one issued in the cleaning kit) on the inside of the brake. The piston head is pretty much stained and battered. Think of it like little carbon pellets getting blasted against the head of the piston every time you shoot. As far as proper cleaning to not get you panties in a bunch regarding rust inside of the barrel where you can't see, throw som

That caked on black stuff is NOT corrosive... The primers are the main culprit. The black tar is carbon residue from the burning of the powder. The powder is non-corrosive. You need to literally scrape those deposits off with a flat head (I use the one issued in the cleaning kit) on the inside of the brake. The piston head is pretty much stained and battered. Think of it like little carbon pellets getting blasted against the head of the piston every time you shoot. As far as proper cleaning to not get you panties in a bunch regarding rust inside of the barrel where you can't see, throw som

+1 Thanks for the info

Great looking conversion. I had a question about your handguard. How is it attached and is it on solid? Thought one would need a retainer... Also, is it heavy and does it do a good job blocking heat?

The bolt breaking is rare if I had to guess... what one would expect to replace first would be a firing pin and/or extractor. Am I right? That way, you could have pertinent replacement parts without the headspacing variable in the equation of replacement parts? Basically, to keep your saiga "passable" to other generations without them worrying about taking the gun apart, one should have recoil springs, carriers, piston, ejectors and springs, and firing pins?

I say yes with caution that one should head space the bolt, but like I stated before, it is not 100% needed. You should expect a plug and play kinda deal. Especially with the bolt carrier and spring.

Also I think headspacing was taken care of when the rifle was originally built correctly by the Russians. Although technically you should check head spacing, the chances of the bolt not locking properly are slim. So more or less it is a plug and go piece. If it wasn't, that would mean every AK needing a bolt replacement would have to be rebuilt from the front trunnion/barrel junction.

Better question is what is the typical life span of a bolt, bolt carrier and recoil spring

So ill take the new rifle after fraud for $300... Deal?

Asking about AK's on ar15.com is like asking for information on American politics in Russia. You are going to get some of the most biased info you'll ever see there (at least that's how it was when I was there). Welcome to the forum! Back on topic. So, just to be clear, as I am going to be picking up a Saiga 5.45 next week, if this happens, who should I directly contact first, ODGreenThumb? I'll bet my first born that you will not see this problem again!

Great rifles

Thanks for the encouragement and praise Beefcake! You dawg you! You got to admit... I get more exposure and eyes in this section then I do in the other.

You should make friends with that dude... he's probably really rich with a setup like that... or really poor!

I did not know that an SVD could fit on a Saiga... Son of a bitch. I found a cheap russian POSP at the gun show a month back ($60) and the guy told me it would not fit an AK and I believed him.

Thats money... I'm getting one asap. Love that sight picture. Thanks to all that replied!

I installed a 4-24 POSP on both my SGL-21 7.69x39 and my SGL-31 5.45x39 both shot great groups and I am very happy with the 4-24. What's the furthest you used one on a 5.45? I mean I would like to get a Kashtan, but when the optic costs more than the rifle, I find it a hard investment to partake in.

Maybe you need to spend more time in the optics forum, it might not be as much of a ghost town as you think http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/68054-1p78-kashtan-28x-optic-review/ Z Z you can correct me anytime... Respect through the roof! BTW that post might draw me more to the optics (your section and expertise) section. +1 and a beer!

Thank the lawd that 5.45 is cheap! What post then would be specifically designed for a 74?... @beefcake... Suck it!

I am currently looking into a POPS 6x24b scope to mount on my 5.45, but I wanted to know if its even worth it considering the scope was designed for 7.62 play (I think?). My main concern is that I will have the scope zeroed in at 100m and then the range adjustments will no correspond correctly because of the 5.45 straight shooting trajectory. Any thoughts?

Where did you purchase the hand guard and I am guessing you used the dinzag retainer and gas tube?

I have red Lock-tite holding mine in as well as a barrel adapter on the front of the gun for my 24mm brake to fit... That sh!t aint budging anytime soon... Look up the specs for red lock-tite, it takes temps in the mid 300 F to even start to break the bonds. Something like a bullet guide machined screw is more than stay put, its virtually stuck for good.

Is that a hogue handguard?