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About barely

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  1. Can someone tell me whether it is normal to have a small gap between the gas piston and the drive block? Upon a recent disassembly of my MKA, I noticed that the gas piston was NOT seated fully in the gas block by about 0.157" according to my caliper. I suspect that the gas piston not being fully seated may be allowing some gas to bleed off. On my MKA, understand that I've never been successful with any version of a low-brass round that I've tried. I do have the low power recoil spring and flat washer installed to supposedly help with cycling low brass shell as well as I've increased the size of the gas ports and attempted to "tune" the mags. The drive block shown in the picture is from Tooth and Nail. Be aware that I fully seated the gas piston in the gas block for this picture. Therefore, the .157 gap being shown is between drive block and the gas piston head. What caught my attention was that upon disassembly, the gap was between the gas piston lip and the gas block not being seated fully. Seems like a gap here would allow some off the gas to be bleed off that is needed for cycling the action. Thanks in advance...
  2. I'm guessing that it does NOT matter, but I'll ask anyway.. Any difference which side of the gas release spring that the gas booster bushing/ring is located?
  3. My apologies. I should have been more clear when I stated that the "stock itself is not as important to me as the cheek riser". I should have been more clear and clarified that I have NOT purchased a stock or a stock/tube adjustable combination yet. At the moment I'm more concerned about a comfortable cheek rest. Just so you know, this "new" build will be my 2nd S12. My first S12 is collapsable with a Magpul MOE stock which allows a good cheek hold with iron sights. But with my plans for this "new" build while swapping some parts, it's obvious to me that the Magpul will NOT work with the Chaos Extended rail and a MRD. So overall, I've not yet decided upon which stock version to purchase, but it's whether I can get a solid mounted cheek rest that determines which stock to purchase. Here's kinda what I've been thinking: A- There is a cheek rest made specifically for the "Carolina Raptor Stock" that appears to mount with 4 screws to the stock. Anyone know whether that cheek rest is polymer or some type of metal? The stock is aluminum, but I don't know about the cheek riser. B- There is a cheek rest made for the Tromix stock that appears to mount with 4 screws. Apparently it will mount to either the polymer or aluminum version of the Tromix stock, but there is some "modifications" needed for mounting to the aluminum version. If I'm completely off-base with my concern for needing a "riser" on the stock, please let me know. I'll be using some type of MRD (ie. probably a Leupold or Trijicon) on the Chaos Extended rail section. Thanks...
  4. Anyone have a recommendation for a firmly mounted "cheek riser"? My build will have a Chaos Extended Rail with a MRD (ie. mini red dot) mounted. I want a cheek-hold rather than a chin-hold when handling this shotty. I've personally used cheek risers that "snap" onto the buttstock, but are NOT IMPRESSED with their ability to handle rough usage. Pretty much, I'm looking for a cheek riser that is build tough and firmly mounted with bolts/screws to ensure that it doesn't move. The stock itself is not as important to me as the cheek riser, but I'd want it to be just as tough. Cost is not the factor, but rather a bullet-proof cheek riser/stock combo. Thanks...
  5. Thanks.. Any idea what Josh recommended?
  6. If I wanted to check the size of the (2) gas ports on a non-XN 1919, does anyone know the standard size? I'd just be poking them with a drill bit to check that they are the correct size. Here's why I ask. There is a 3-gun match that I want to run my MKA, but the SOP for the match requires #7 1/2 shot (ie. or smaller) for the shotty. Although my MKA is pretty well broken-in, I usually use Remington #5 at other matches because the heavier shot ensures that steel plates fall. For my last trip to the range, I took along 5 different types of shells that were #7 1/2 shot. Although 2 of them were the standard Wal-Mart Federal and Winchester 1200FPS velocity shells, these do nothing but FTE (ie. fail to extract) 100%. A manual extraction after being fired is needed to load the next shell. The only brands that even came close to working are the below. I'd guess about 70% success on both and the ones that did extract piled in roughly the same location slightly forward about 4 feet away. Remington 2 3/4 length 1255FPS velocity 1 1/8oz #7 1/2 shot ShurShot Heavy Dove Federal 2 3/4 length 1255FPS velocity 1 1/8oz #7 1/2 shot Heavy Field Load I'd say that my shouldering of the shotty is pretty firm, but I did try to place the buttstock against a solid table to ensure that it wasn't me and the results didn't change. I am using the standard OEM spring, but I do have a "gas booster ring" installed as I needed this to break-in the gun and never saw a need to remove it. I did try multiple mags, and I noticed that I have a little more "tweaking" to do on the OEM 5 rounder as it performs the worst. Also, I wish that I would have had the tools to pull my bolt at the range because I was curious whether the T&N Tactical Bolt may be just a little too heavy for the light loads. Although I'm not a fan of the reduced recoil springs (ie. drilled my Saiga12 rather than use the light spring), I'm wondering if that might be my next choice for this MKA...
  7. Thanks Jack! Your follow-up post shows character. All of us have had a bad-day and get caught up in a heated thread, but true character is shown by how it is resolved.
  8. I'm still forming my own opinion from these recent comparision of parts threads, but I do have to ask a question. Can't anyone copy an idea if there is not a patent? I've never dealt with a patent personally, but isn't a patent what keeps others from copying an original design/idea? If there are patents on FB's design, then shouldn't this be in the court system to handle? If there are NOT patents, then why comment about copying someone's design? I'm no engineer, but seems to me as though without a patent, then any difference (ie. no matter how small) would not be considered copying someone elses design when we are talking about small parts such as these that have to fit within specs. **Not sure which thread to ask the above qustion since there are so many similar threads at the moment comparing the various components.
  9. Congrats to T&N for taking the "high-road" in this conversation! Business members need to realize that common everyday readers of this forum remember aggressize business members for concern that they don't want to have to deal with a personality issue. Do customers get told to "put up or shut up"?
  10. Done... The re-designed hammer from T&N has arrived and I went ahead and opened the gas ports to the next size which turned out to be 1/8". Mine is nowhere close to running the cheap ammo, so I've done both steps before my next range trip.
  11. That's where I want to be! Range trips are just more fun for myself as well as the hoards of persons that are curious if I can feed it the cheap stuff from Walmart. Sure, I'll plan to at a minimum put the OEM recoil spring back in for high brass/slugs if I begin using it for 3-gun. If this were a Saiga, then I'd be working on additional/expanding the gas port. This isn't my first rodeo regarding building/tweaking firearms, but it's my first MKA and at the moment trying the new T&N hammer is the last thing before I make more drastic attempts.
  12. If I'm remembering correctly, the original T&N trigger group did not include the redesigned hammer. I want to say that this was offered a little later after I received mine. Do you sell just the redesigned hammer? And will it function with your early-release trigger group for a non-XM model?
  13. Anyone got a suggestion to offer that will help me shoot the "cheap" ammo. Yesterday I tried some Federal and Winchester 7 1/2 shot and both FTE (ie. failure to extract) every shot. This gun has had probably 40 slugs though it and 100+ high brass for a break-in. I've been using a gas booster bushing, and recently added a low power recoil spring. Slugs and high brass work great, but I'm really wanting to shoot the cheap stuff. If I can get it to shoot the cheap ammo, I will definitely switch back to the OEM spring for slugs. Trying to think about anything that would cause "drag" on the bolt, I'm using a T&N trigger group. I also played with both 5 round and 10 round mags that were loaded with only 2 shells. It just seems as though there isn't enough pressure to bring the bolt back far enough to eject the shell and it simply re-inserts the emply shell into the barrel. Also, I'm providing a firm shoulder to get the inertia of the bolt to move rearward. I clean and lubricate after each session and I cannot find anywhere that drags when I hand cycle the bolt. I wish that I would have thought about this yesterday while at the range, but the only thing that I have left is to see if it makes a difference with the factory bolt handle. Possibly the extra mass of the T&N charging handle is something to remove and see if it makes a difference. Any suggesions? Mine is a pre-XN model. Anything that can be done to improve the gas piston seal or open the gas port (ie. like I've done for the Saiga 12)?
  14. barely

    T&N forearm mod

    The "alignment plate" that comes with the T&N forearm prevents prevents flex in general. This plate along with the barrel and operating rod prevents movement in the T&N forearm. T&N even provides instructions that tell you how to modify the "alignment plate" if you want to remove your bolt without having to unscrew the operating rod. Their instructions warn you that it won't be as positive a lock-up if you modify, but that was my choice. Again, just trying to eliminate "tools" to breakdown for cleaning. If the operating rod is stuck after a day of shooting, then you'll need something like vice-grips and a piece of leather to get it removed. Therefore, I chose to modify the T&N provided "alignment plate" so that my operating rod could be lock-tite in place. Many people may not even care about the slight "play" when you modify the "alignment plate", but it bothered me since my irons are mounted to the T&N forearm. Cost of modification was probably 20 cents and some time with a drill...
  15. barely

    T&N forearm mod

    For a little background, let me start by saying that T&N products are top-shelf in my opinion. So don't take anything written here as negative against T&N. I've never been a big fan of firearms that require a "tool" for disassembly. So the 6mm allen wrench to seperate the upper from the lower isn't exactly what I desire. Anyone whom has added a T&N forearm to their MKA knows about the "alignment plate" that as provided by T&N which requires removal of the operating rod to remove the bolt. Because of my desire for an easier to disassemble firearm, I chose to remove the knobs from T&N's "alignment plate" so that the bolt can be removed without removing the operating rod. T&N's directions indicate that the lock-up without the knobs may allow a slight movement of their forearm. I'll attest that although being very careful with the fitting, the slight movement was also more than I would like on a firearm. Especially when you mount a front sight on the T&N forearm, this was not ideal for my setup. So overall, what I did was used permanent lock-tite to mount the top-rail on the T&N forearm. I didn't want there to be any movement. If there were to eventually become movement, then I'll probably attempt to also "pin" the top rail to the T&N forearm. Once the top rail is firmly mounted to the T&N forearm, I drilled two holes that I inserted 2 split-pins from a box of AR parts that I had available. I ensure that they both bottomed-out equally into the top rail. Because of lacking any better method of doing the next step, I simply aligned the top rail on the T&N forearm with the top rail of the MKA upper with the help of a Magpul AFG to alighn the rails. Then I took a rubber mallet and whacked the forearm slightly towards the MKA upper. This peened two marks for me to drill into the MKA upper. Keep in mind that what I just described was the best way that I could figure out exactly where to drill the receiving holes into the MKA upper. Well overall, I don't have to remove my operating rod to disassemble the bolt and when my T&N forearm is mounted, it's ROCK SOLID. There's absolutely ZERO sideways, rotating, up/down play between the forearm and MKA upper. I like my modification. What do you think?
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