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Everything posted by barely

  1. Can someone tell me whether it is normal to have a small gap between the gas piston and the drive block? Upon a recent disassembly of my MKA, I noticed that the gas piston was NOT seated fully in the gas block by about 0.157" according to my caliper. I suspect that the gas piston not being fully seated may be allowing some gas to bleed off. On my MKA, understand that I've never been successful with any version of a low-brass round that I've tried. I do have the low power recoil spring and flat washer installed to supposedly help with cycling low brass shell as well as I've increased
  2. I'm guessing that it does NOT matter, but I'll ask anyway.. Any difference which side of the gas release spring that the gas booster bushing/ring is located?
  3. My apologies. I should have been more clear when I stated that the "stock itself is not as important to me as the cheek riser". I should have been more clear and clarified that I have NOT purchased a stock or a stock/tube adjustable combination yet. At the moment I'm more concerned about a comfortable cheek rest. Just so you know, this "new" build will be my 2nd S12. My first S12 is collapsable with a Magpul MOE stock which allows a good cheek hold with iron sights. But with my plans for this "new" build while swapping some parts, it's obvious to me that the Magpul will NOT work with
  4. Anyone have a recommendation for a firmly mounted "cheek riser"? My build will have a Chaos Extended Rail with a MRD (ie. mini red dot) mounted. I want a cheek-hold rather than a chin-hold when handling this shotty. I've personally used cheek risers that "snap" onto the buttstock, but are NOT IMPRESSED with their ability to handle rough usage. Pretty much, I'm looking for a cheek riser that is build tough and firmly mounted with bolts/screws to ensure that it doesn't move. The stock itself is not as important to me as the cheek riser, but I'd want it to be just as tough. Cost is no
  5. Thanks.. Any idea what Josh recommended?
  6. If I wanted to check the size of the (2) gas ports on a non-XN 1919, does anyone know the standard size? I'd just be poking them with a drill bit to check that they are the correct size. Here's why I ask. There is a 3-gun match that I want to run my MKA, but the SOP for the match requires #7 1/2 shot (ie. or smaller) for the shotty. Although my MKA is pretty well broken-in, I usually use Remington #5 at other matches because the heavier shot ensures that steel plates fall. For my last trip to the range, I took along 5 different types of shells that were #7 1/2 shot. Although 2 of t
  7. Thanks Jack! Your follow-up post shows character. All of us have had a bad-day and get caught up in a heated thread, but true character is shown by how it is resolved.
  8. I'm still forming my own opinion from these recent comparision of parts threads, but I do have to ask a question. Can't anyone copy an idea if there is not a patent? I've never dealt with a patent personally, but isn't a patent what keeps others from copying an original design/idea? If there are patents on FB's design, then shouldn't this be in the court system to handle? If there are NOT patents, then why comment about copying someone's design? I'm no engineer, but seems to me as though without a patent, then any difference (ie. no matter how small) would not be considered copying
  9. Congrats to T&N for taking the "high-road" in this conversation! Business members need to realize that common everyday readers of this forum remember aggressize business members for concern that they don't want to have to deal with a personality issue. Do customers get told to "put up or shut up"?
  10. Done... The re-designed hammer from T&N has arrived and I went ahead and opened the gas ports to the next size which turned out to be 1/8". Mine is nowhere close to running the cheap ammo, so I've done both steps before my next range trip.
  11. That's where I want to be! Range trips are just more fun for myself as well as the hoards of persons that are curious if I can feed it the cheap stuff from Walmart. Sure, I'll plan to at a minimum put the OEM recoil spring back in for high brass/slugs if I begin using it for 3-gun. If this were a Saiga, then I'd be working on additional/expanding the gas port. This isn't my first rodeo regarding building/tweaking firearms, but it's my first MKA and at the moment trying the new T&N hammer is the last thing before I make more drastic attempts.
  12. If I'm remembering correctly, the original T&N trigger group did not include the redesigned hammer. I want to say that this was offered a little later after I received mine. Do you sell just the redesigned hammer? And will it function with your early-release trigger group for a non-XM model?
  13. Anyone got a suggestion to offer that will help me shoot the "cheap" ammo. Yesterday I tried some Federal and Winchester 7 1/2 shot and both FTE (ie. failure to extract) every shot. This gun has had probably 40 slugs though it and 100+ high brass for a break-in. I've been using a gas booster bushing, and recently added a low power recoil spring. Slugs and high brass work great, but I'm really wanting to shoot the cheap stuff. If I can get it to shoot the cheap ammo, I will definitely switch back to the OEM spring for slugs. Trying to think about anything that would cause "drag" on
  14. barely

    T&N forearm mod

    The "alignment plate" that comes with the T&N forearm prevents prevents flex in general. This plate along with the barrel and operating rod prevents movement in the T&N forearm. T&N even provides instructions that tell you how to modify the "alignment plate" if you want to remove your bolt without having to unscrew the operating rod. Their instructions warn you that it won't be as positive a lock-up if you modify, but that was my choice. Again, just trying to eliminate "tools" to breakdown for cleaning. If the operating rod is stuck after a day of shooting, then you'll need
  15. For a little background, let me start by saying that T&N products are top-shelf in my opinion. So don't take anything written here as negative against T&N. I've never been a big fan of firearms that require a "tool" for disassembly. So the 6mm allen wrench to seperate the upper from the lower isn't exactly what I desire. Anyone whom has added a T&N forearm to their MKA knows about the "alignment plate" that as provided by T&N which requires removal of the operating rod to remove the bolt. Because of my desire for an easier to disassemble firearm, I chose to remove the k
  16. +1.. I get the emails and catalog from CTD too, but I use them as a reminder to shop somewhere else...
  17. I cannot comment about buckshot through the factory "full" choke as I've only used the "cylinder" choke for my shooting so far. Personally, I was planning to try to tighten my patterns for 3-gun with the "modified" choke during my next test session, but I also need it to handle Remmington "slugger" slugs through the same "modified" choke. With your comment about swelling from just using buckshot, I'm now on the fence about whether the "modified" choke can handle the "slugger" slugs. Any experience there?
  18. barely

    MKA drum

    I don't know whether it's possible, but I'd like to see a magazine body that will clip onto a MD Arms drum. That way I don't have to screw up my MD Arms drum trying to make one fit the MKA 1919. Also, I could still use the MD Arms drum with my Saiga's if the attachment will "clip" to the original mounting points on the drum without modification. I would assume that a couple of dummy shells would be needed to go along with the attachment since the magazine body will need to be at least as tall as the magwell. Heck, I'd even cut a factory MKA 5 round magazine in half if there was some
  19. Sorry, but I had to pass on the April Fool's prank. My local FFL "duped" me good on a sale flyer that had me planning where to get some additional funds until I caught-on.
  20. Pictures will be available soon and expected availability will be April 1st, 2014 (ie. April Fool's 2014).
  21. Or could a hole be drilled through it which a small screwdriver or allen wrench could be used for leverage?
  22. I don't disagree, but I only own 2 S12's and I've got both OEM trigger groups still together with the OEM bushing. I know 100% that I didn't order a replacement spring. Only thing that I'm a little fuzzy about is whether maybe Pauley would have thrown one in when he did the profile/polish work on my 1st S12.
  23. I've been acquiring the parts for my 2nd S12 conversion and I cannot locate the "disconnect spring" for a Tapco single-hook trigger group. Honestly, I cannot recall if a new disconnect spring came with my Tapco trigger group, but as best I can recall one came with the same trigger group that I used on my 1st S12 conversion. I've now accumulated 2 of the OEM triggers in which I see a disconnect spring included. It appears accessible if I knock-out the OEM bushing to disassemble. But is the OEM disconnect spring the correct spring to use with the Tapco trigger group? My options appear
  24. What you described would be one of 3 possible ways that I'm learning this could be resolved. But, understand that by filing the top of the square hole on the magazine, this should in theory lock the magazine into the magwell but slightly "lower" than intended. Possibly not "low" enough to cause a problem with feeding, but something to consider. The other 2 possible ways include "A" removing some of the overmold from the magazine so that it will lock into the magwell, or "B" opening the bottom of the magwell so that the overmolded magazine can be inserted deeper into the magwell until it
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