barely

If you didn't like the original "crappy" paint job, what do you think it will look like after you hit it with a wire brush to remove the duracoat? Just asking... I gave my un-assembled to a local Cerakote guy with $175 and he even sand blasted it down to bare metal. He would have had to charge more for disassembly/re-assembly, so I gladly broke it down into parts and zip-lock baggy parts with a complete breakdown list that he could reference to keep track of all the parts. Took about 10 days to get it back in the process and another afternoon for me to put it back together. Just som

+1000 for Cerakote. My first experience with Cerakote has been with my S12 and I am very impressed. I gave the S12 to the painter completely disassembled and told him that I wanted everything coated. He did exactly what I asked, and I didn't notice any difference in how my firearm cycled. He even painted inside the gas block and my puc still slides easily when the gun is tilted. I did NOT give him the puc just in case you are wondering though.. FYI, "gun blast" is the strongest cleaner that I've used and it don't bother the Cerakote.

SOLD!!! I bought this "tactical triple" thigh pouch new from "TheVestGuy" for use in 3-gun competitions but have never used it. It never left the inside of my home once it was received, so it's brand new. It's black in color and was ordered for the SGM 12-round magazines. "TheVestGuy" website indicated to be specific if SGM magazines are to be used, but honestly I do not know how it would be different for other name brand magazines. It's has a quick release buckle to attach to your belt and two additional buckle straps for attaching to your leg. Meaning, it clips on/off pretty easi

Me Like! Would be nice on my virgin S12 that is still in the box ready for a conversion.

I wanted to replace the OEM front bead with a tritium unit. Reading this forum about how best to remove the front bead, I ground down the OEM bead and had planned to drill into the remaining material and tap to install a new tritium front sight. Starting with the smallest drill bit that I had available, I began working my way up to the drill bit I needed to begin threading. With very little effort, the remaining material fell into the gas block. The hole is way too big for my tritium site that needs a 5-40 thread pattern. Based upon the size of the OEM hole, it looks like the smallest

I have a similar sling, and would HIGHLY recommend staying away from slings with bungee built-in to the sling. Some people like single point slings and some people don't. Myself, I think that there is a purpose for both. But my point is to stay away from slings with bungee. If you don't believe me, then try any sling with a bungee system built-in and try running with it. Let me know if you get whacked in the chin or groin. I'm sure that there is a purpose that would explain why so many are come with bungee built-in, but the drawback to being whacked far out weights any advantage to th

I'm somewhat of a newbie here myself, but I just did this same thing earlier this week. It was waaaay too easy. After doing the steps you listed, do the below: 1) Remove the gas adjustment knob, the gas puck, the top shroud, and the bolt assembly. 2) Stand the rifle on the barrel with something like a wooden block to protect the end. I suggest having the thread-cap on the barrel to protect the threads. 3) For myself, I inserted a 1" wide piece of aluminum flat that I had lying in my garage between the barrel and gas tube and slide it down towards the gas block. Just about anything

Thanks everyone! After my next 3-gun match, I believe that I'm going to experiment with opening the gas port holes. Although I try to read as many of these threads as possible, remembering the details is difficult and I recall reading that some have removed the front sight bead to get to the gas ports, and others have actually removed the gas tube. Anyone got a reason why I should lean towards one way verses the other?

I discovered this today while shooting my Saiga 12. Using some blue painters tape, I wanted to see whether my carrier was hitting the frame upon recoil. Thought that I would share with everyone to see what others thought. I was NOT aware that the carrier was hitting the frame consistently during recoil as I'll show below and wanted to know your thoughs about whether this is normal. Background of my Saiga 12: - Bought Saiga 12 new a couple months ago and it has the manual BHO - Has been converted with enough parts to allow high capacity magazines to be legal - Original recoil spring,

True! Sounds like the auto plug would be a feasible solution... I'll give one a try...

Been reading a lot on this forum and I've read where some consider any size "slug" as a shell that should only be fired on setting 1 of a S12. Seems as though some people always reference a slug, no matter of shell size or manufacturer labeling, as a "magnum" load that should be shot on setting 1 of a broken-in and correctly gas ported S12. Personally, I've never thought that all slugs where considered a "magnum" unless labeled as such. So which is correct? My S12 is correctly cycling Remington 2 3/4 5-shot 1330 shells on setting 2. So if I run a 2 3/4 "slugger" through the firearm

Thanks for the advice everyone. I reading all of the different replies and taking them into consideration. Here is one item that I noticed as I'm closely inspecting my situation. Keep in mind, that I've NOT MODIFIED ANYTHING yet in regards to the new SGM magazines nor the mag catch.... When I install the SGM 12-round magazine and inspect from the bottom of the firearm, there really is NOT any way to see exactly how the magazine catch looks as it sits against the magazine. But alternatively, if I install the factory OEM 5-round magazine, there is enough clearance behind the magazine

Thanks all! I'm glad that there is a place like this to ask these types of questions. Regarding whether I filed or made any modifications to the magazine, I did NOT. I really didn't touch the magazines at all nor the mag release. Those just weren't items that I touched during my conversion. When I checked that they fit, I did get a positive click from the mag latch. Although now they don't lock into place since the plastic sheered away. The missing plastic (or what appears to be filed away) is where the plastic sheered away during my shooting. I'm 100% positive that it was caused

Took out my new converted S12 today for the first time. Yes, I'm one of those whom didn't shoot the S12 in the "sporter" configuration and immediately converted the gun. I can only say that I bought the gun intending to do the conversion and had no intentions of using it in stock form. So I left the house with my new converted S12 and several different types of 2 3/4 ammunition figuring that I'd be playing with the plug. Not long after starting to shoot, my new SGM 12-round magazine dropped out of the rifle unexpectantly. Did a quick check and tried again. Then the problem got worse.