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About buckandaquarterquarterstaff

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  1. Well thanks so much! You certainly have an interesting way of "rolling out the welcome mat" with un-helpful snarky postings to a new member whose first instinct was to join this site with a monetary contribution and then begin posting here to try to contribute and help folks. Have I made a mistake? I have a sweeet SAR-1 with a threaded barrel and a Primary Weapons Systems FSC47. I'm aware of features and benefits to a number of designs and weapons platforms. I'm on this thread because I'm trying this muzzle brake system and wanting to help folks that have also chosen to try this system. That is all. It's fairly obvious a few here have already made the investment into this brake system and are efforting to make it work. So your advice in beginning in #19 is to realize the error in our purchase, give-up, toss the SGM brake in the trash, and 'do it right' by threading the barrel. What have you contributed to the OP'ers subject, content and intent in the thread except to let everyone know you think it's all a mistake? So pardon me If I responded negatively right-back-at-you...my mistake was taking the bait. Sorry. If you again need some interpretation: Holy fuck that is expensive Why not merely thread the barrel Also your feeble attempt to take the high road is amusing. If you want to stride the welcome mat, don't flame up when the obvious is stated. As a final point, there is an obvious difference between control and accuracy. Porting does not increase accuracy. If the product is claiming to change barrel resonance then OK, but I highly doubt they'd claim that with a non-tunable design weight.
  2. Yep, a troll with over 680 posts and two dozen conversions under my belt. Best of luck.
  3. Well, if it does work it will probably be the first pin on, screw on, pin on type muzzle brake for the S308 that works up to expectations (and they should be high expectations at that price, but hey I agree it's your money). My "insights" were that in years of posting and trolling this board almost all that have started with intentions of using a screw on brake have either given up or gone the route of threading the barrel. Most products "designed specifically for the S308" have had some fit issues, etc. Sorry if you happen to mistake skepticism for schedenfreude. And oh yes, let us all know how that "dramatically improves accuracy" thing works out for you... If nothing else should make you run for cover, a claim like that surely will.
  4. Can comment on the 308. The vmax is all about energy transfer. Low weight vmax for smaller critter evaporation (though 22 cal bullets work better on small animals), and heavier vmax bullets to immediately drop coyotes and that sized animal (deer as well, but not recommended for shoulder shots on large animals). The amax is an accuracy built bullet that unlike many target hollowpoints will reliably expand and usually not separate. Amax penetration tends to depend much on bullet weight. Higher weights will penetrate farther and cause less disruption in the shallow portion of the wound channel. Light amax bullets tend to perform like heavy vmax bullets. Heavy amax bullets are more like typical hunting soft points, but they are more consistent in weight and shape (thus tend to be very accurate). No experience with TAP so I can't comment on that. Also, my comments are on the bullet performance, not loaded ammo. There are lots of online sources to check out the amax wound channels in 308 weights. If you're looking to use them on deer, you might want to check out that info to get a sense of how rapidly the different bullet weights expand. Depending on the size of deer in the part of the country you're hunting, you may want to choose one bullet weight over another.
  5. $169.95. Two years ago you could buy an S223 for just over $200. Seeing as you're beating the shit out of your gun anyway, why not just remove the front sight post and thread the barrel. You'll wind up with something less costly, more reliable, and much lighter.
  6. Buck, So you drilled out the dimples, put on the Wilson extension and only got the same capacity out of the Pardner as you'd've gotten if you'd've only drilled out the dimples? Derek Well yes it's a 6+1 same as you could have with the stock gun. But by only drilling out the dimples you're going have to use 2.75 in shells in it (usually with 9, 00 pellets per). With the extension I got the sling setup exactly as I wanted and it can hold 6+1 with the majority of the shells (5 if I remember correctly) being 3 inch shells (with 15, 00 pellets per). Much more payload down range (67% more per round). I always load the last two with slugs anyway as I figure by the time I get that deep in a mag I'm bound to be aiming closely at something. The max 100 setup can probably net you a +2, but I really liked the wilson sling setup.
  7. Hmm, I just checked out my sig 229 and teh bullet hits the feed ramp before the case gets off the shoulder of the round beneath it. I have a 10mm with a 357 sig conversion barrel that is very prone to the issue you describe though. Must depend on the gun. I'm aiming to get a 357 sig mp40 so I'll be sure to get a snap cap to check it out on that gun prior to taking the plunge. Thx for the info, Buck
  8. Why not think ahead and build him a del ton rifle with a 22 insert? They are a little picky about ammo (in terms of grouping on paper), but otherwise OK.
  9. I did my 308 for the price of tapco FCG ($34). Made the stock and forearm myself. Stock is easy, forearm is more difficult. From there, the sky's the limit.
  10. No shit, I had one of those too. As for x25, I'll stick with my sig. But I've shot some x25'x that were screamers. Now wouldn't it be cool to see an x25 hi point carbine...
  11. While I agree with your points about relative power and ease of reloading, I really think it's the 38 super is the one that is going to fade away. I think that 38 super will eventually be replaced by official factory offerings in 9x23 as a new "designation" for pistols and it will turn take off (but not until "rebranded"). Having cases designated as 38 super +P and warnings about older unsupported chambers (and resulting KB's) makes people shy away from it in my estimation. Also, there are many more factory 357 sig offerings than 38 super. 38 super is sort of a boutique cartridge at the present time, popular with practical pistol types, but not much of a following beyond that. With CCW pistols being a large part of the market, and 38 super mostly absent from those offerings it's not getting much pub. Most of todays pistols probably get dreamed up in terms of having full sized service pistols, compacts, and sub compacts based upon much of the same tooling. 38 super could be used in a subcompact, but we really haven't see that yet. 357 sig is pretty easy to reload, and it fits in a 40 frame. Given it penetrates well, has 357 mag level terminal performance (in the lower weight bullets), an increasing number of government agencies using it, it will be around awhile. As a plus 357 sig is very very accurate, and the bottlenosed profile feeds very well getting HP's up and above the bottom edge of most pistol feed ramps. Terminal performance of either 38 super or 357 sig is very impressive.
  12. I'll add one more into the mix. M&P compact in 357 sig. That looks like one I'll check out if it can be found. Since I was on the fence between baby glock and compact glock, this looks like it splits the difference and more fully supports the case. Case support IS an issue for me because I almost exclusively shoot reloads. Anyone have comments about the M&P in either 40 or 357?
  13. You can call me Ray or you can call me Jay (dating myself?). Buck works for me. Now you've went and got me thinking about stuff I hadn't even thought about. I think you're on to something there YARP... Main reason I don't shoot my 10mm too much is that I tend to shoot more in the winter and I lose alot of brass in snow banks and even if it's in our covered range it's cold rummaging around for brass. I can get 1000 sig cases for about $40 so if I lose a few I'm not going to cry about it. But now that you mention it, I can see how the 10mm would work as a CCW cartridge. Might be a little snappy in a glock subcompact though. I think a G29 with a 357 sig barrel might work, but I'd be just a bit worried about the short rounds in the magazine being completely functional. Realize glock mags are very very different than witness mags, but my witness 10mm mags don't always feed into the 40 bbl I have for it. I'm a big 357 sig fan because it's just unbelievably accurate and most pistols that come in 357 sig are quality rigs (sure that helped my impression of it). My sig 229 rocks, and if I could only have one gun, well I'd have a difficult time choosing any other. I actually have decent luck reloading the 357 sig. The only issues I've had are when I bow out the shoulder by having my seating die improperly shoving against the shoulder (sort of the same issue described but probably for different reasons). I use a 40S&W die to size and prime, follow with a 357 sizing die, seat, then use a lee taper crimp die. That said, 38 super would be easier for me to load because I have a 4 station press and the sig takes 5 stations. Anyhow, the glock 29 seems a step between a normal compact and subcompact glock. I suppose the grip and barrel (as measured from breach face) are a little longer. I'll have to check one out to see how it fits my hands. Versatility may be worth the extra $'s. Do you know if the wolf/EFK sig barrels completely support the case (web)? If so, that would also favor a converted G29 over a G33. Come to think of it, the fact that the 10mm uses large primers and the 357 sig uses small primers is a plus too (could still CCW the G29 with whatever primers I can scrounge). Knew I could depend on you guys to send me in a totally different direction. Though I'd still like to hear if anybody CCW's a witness.
  14. Long post, so sorry about that. I recently sold off a sig P6 that wouldn't feed hollowpoints in order to get a more fitting CCW. I have a sig 229 in 357 sig that I love shooting, but it's a bit big for carry in all but winter garb (carrying it for a few more months, then I'm going to need a little smaller pistol). So, here are my options: I have a witness polymer compact frame that currently sports a ported 45acp full size slide. I'm thinking a 38 super compact slide on the poly witness would net me a gun very similar to my PT145 taurus, but it would be a DA/SA which I somewhat prefer. Cost of that would probably be around $300 after mags and all that jazz. And, I'd need to buy dies for it (another $40 or so). Or, Go out and purchase either a glock 32c or glock 33 for CCW work. That's about a $650 endeavor after mags and all that jazz. I already have the sig dies and brass, so no added cost there. Both are about the same power in such small packages, and money is probably a secondary object (I may well wind up with both eventually, but want to know what's the better deal to do first). The glock 33 is probably better overall given the 357 sig is no slouch and you have 10 rounds of power that would be smaller than my current PT145. However, given the cost, I'm wondering if anyone has a compact witness in 38 super that they can share their opinion of. I have a full size witness 10mm and it's not always a great feeder, so I'm hesitant to bet my hide on the 38 super until I have fully wrung it out successfully. There should be no such reliability issues with the glock, of course. Like my PT145 and will keep that, but you can never have too many you know... Thx for the advice. I'm leaning toward the glock unless someone can talk me out of it...?
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