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buckandaquarterquarterstaff

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About buckandaquarterquarterstaff

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  1. Well thanks so much! You certainly have an interesting way of "rolling out the welcome mat" with un-helpful snarky postings to a new member whose first instinct was to join this site with a monetary contribution and then begin posting here to try to contribute and help folks. Have I made a mistake? I have a sweeet SAR-1 with a threaded barrel and a Primary Weapons Systems FSC47. I'm aware of features and benefits to a number of designs and weapons platforms. I'm on this thread because I'm trying this muzzle brake system and wanting to help folks that have also chosen to try thi
  2. Yep, a troll with over 680 posts and two dozen conversions under my belt. Best of luck.
  3. Well, if it does work it will probably be the first pin on, screw on, pin on type muzzle brake for the S308 that works up to expectations (and they should be high expectations at that price, but hey I agree it's your money). My "insights" were that in years of posting and trolling this board almost all that have started with intentions of using a screw on brake have either given up or gone the route of threading the barrel. Most products "designed specifically for the S308" have had some fit issues, etc. Sorry if you happen to mistake skepticism for schedenfreude. And oh yes, let us all kn
  4. Can comment on the 308. The vmax is all about energy transfer. Low weight vmax for smaller critter evaporation (though 22 cal bullets work better on small animals), and heavier vmax bullets to immediately drop coyotes and that sized animal (deer as well, but not recommended for shoulder shots on large animals). The amax is an accuracy built bullet that unlike many target hollowpoints will reliably expand and usually not separate. Amax penetration tends to depend much on bullet weight. Higher weights will penetrate farther and cause less disruption in the shallow portion of the wound ch
  5. $169.95. Two years ago you could buy an S223 for just over $200. Seeing as you're beating the shit out of your gun anyway, why not just remove the front sight post and thread the barrel. You'll wind up with something less costly, more reliable, and much lighter.
  6. Buck, So you drilled out the dimples, put on the Wilson extension and only got the same capacity out of the Pardner as you'd've gotten if you'd've only drilled out the dimples? Derek Well yes it's a 6+1 same as you could have with the stock gun. But by only drilling out the dimples you're going have to use 2.75 in shells in it (usually with 9, 00 pellets per). With the extension I got the sling setup exactly as I wanted and it can hold 6+1 with the majority of the shells (5 if I remember correctly) being 3 inch shells (with 15, 00 pellets per). Much more payload down range (67
  7. Hmm, I just checked out my sig 229 and teh bullet hits the feed ramp before the case gets off the shoulder of the round beneath it. I have a 10mm with a 357 sig conversion barrel that is very prone to the issue you describe though. Must depend on the gun. I'm aiming to get a 357 sig mp40 so I'll be sure to get a snap cap to check it out on that gun prior to taking the plunge. Thx for the info, Buck
  8. Why not think ahead and build him a del ton rifle with a 22 insert? They are a little picky about ammo (in terms of grouping on paper), but otherwise OK.
  9. I did my 308 for the price of tapco FCG ($34). Made the stock and forearm myself. Stock is easy, forearm is more difficult. From there, the sky's the limit.
  10. No shit, I had one of those too. As for x25, I'll stick with my sig. But I've shot some x25'x that were screamers. Now wouldn't it be cool to see an x25 hi point carbine...
  11. While I agree with your points about relative power and ease of reloading, I really think it's the 38 super is the one that is going to fade away. I think that 38 super will eventually be replaced by official factory offerings in 9x23 as a new "designation" for pistols and it will turn take off (but not until "rebranded"). Having cases designated as 38 super +P and warnings about older unsupported chambers (and resulting KB's) makes people shy away from it in my estimation. Also, there are many more factory 357 sig offerings than 38 super. 38 super is sort of a boutique cartridge at the pr
  12. I'll add one more into the mix. M&P compact in 357 sig. That looks like one I'll check out if it can be found. Since I was on the fence between baby glock and compact glock, this looks like it splits the difference and more fully supports the case. Case support IS an issue for me because I almost exclusively shoot reloads. Anyone have comments about the M&P in either 40 or 357?
  13. You can call me Ray or you can call me Jay (dating myself?). Buck works for me. Now you've went and got me thinking about stuff I hadn't even thought about. I think you're on to something there YARP... Main reason I don't shoot my 10mm too much is that I tend to shoot more in the winter and I lose alot of brass in snow banks and even if it's in our covered range it's cold rummaging around for brass. I can get 1000 sig cases for about $40 so if I lose a few I'm not going to cry about it. But now that you mention it, I can see how the 10mm would work as a CCW cartridge. Might be a litt
  14. Long post, so sorry about that. I recently sold off a sig P6 that wouldn't feed hollowpoints in order to get a more fitting CCW. I have a sig 229 in 357 sig that I love shooting, but it's a bit big for carry in all but winter garb (carrying it for a few more months, then I'm going to need a little smaller pistol). So, here are my options: I have a witness polymer compact frame that currently sports a ported 45acp full size slide. I'm thinking a 38 super compact slide on the poly witness would net me a gun very similar to my PT145 taurus, but it would be a DA/SA which I somewhat pref
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