finlander

But wouldn't a suppressor actually add more back pressure to the ejection cycle. BTW could you describe what you had to go through to get a set screw installed to help control the pressure. Was the gas block remove or what? Yes, suppressor adds back pressure, that's why I had the set screw installed. Don't know how the smith did the drill&tap for the screw but it can be done with the gas block in place. Probably easier to do with the gas block removed though.

1-2mm is lot of movement imho when talking about something that acts as a sight base... I have had a peep sight mounted on a dust cover, it held zero very well. Just hammered the cover so that it was tight fit. You can also tighten it by welding material to it then filing it to exact fit. Also welding material to cover release button hole so that release button kinda presses the cover down and tight helps.

Well, I haven't had any problems with my ver. 21 that I had the barrel cut to 17". Even had a set screw installed to gas port/block because with suppressor on it still ejected too strongly to my liking (I reload).

Dunno, have used 180gr Norma Oryx for elk, though I have shot only one and it was a heart shot. .308Win is quite popular here for elk hunting and most factory ammo are 180gr. .308's considered to be a bit on the small side for elk nowadays but it works, most elk are shot at distances under 100m so I guess deer shouldn't be a problem.

Well, I dunno much but I took that metal buffer off and placed on a piece of rubber that sits on the fornt of rear trunnion and everything's going just fine. The bolt travel distance increased a bit which was just enough to make 5 round M14 mag work...

I was buying cheap scopes at first when I started rifle shooting but soon found them to be annoying, not keeping zero, inaccurate adjustments etc. Now I only use them on my .22's. I'd rather buy a used quality scope than a new Chinese one. I have a 4x32 Meopta on my .308 Saiga that I bought used that has held up well. AK isn't the most gentle platform for a scope, after all.

VERY nice looking rifle!!! What stock is that? How dofficult was the fitment process? Thanks. The stock is original, it's a ver. 21 Saiga.

Here's an old pic of my .308 with the can.

Rather than the case, I'd be more concerned about that receiver cover scope mount holding zero...

That spring clip is not necessary at all if the gas tube rattling a bit doesn't bother you. I never put the spring back after I took the gas tube off first time and I even filed the locking surface on the tube so that it rattles real good. A little loose gas tube doesn't have any effect on the reliability of the gun and can even improve accuracy (YMMV, depends).

Your suppressor is an expensive and enviable luxury here in the US for legal reasons. A good brake will make a significant difference. Good brake will cut recoil probably better than a suppressor and brakes are standard equipment for practical/3-gun rifles etc. but to my knowledge of brakes, more efficient the brake -> more pressure/sound to shooter. Well, it ain't too hard to take the brake off when going hunting so I quess there is no problem here. Edit: Oh, about the suppressors, I do know it's expensive to get them in U.S. Though I'd rather pay 200$ tax to get a suppressor th

I wouln't use a muzzle brake on a hunting rifle... Unless you want to lose your hearing asap or unless you use hearing protection when hunting. My knowledge of muzzle brakes is quite miniscule though since I don't feel like I'd need one at the range and because a good suppressor will cut both sound and recoil quite effecticely.

Well, first you should try again using iron sights. If your eyesight doesn't allow using irons, then have someone else shoot few groups. When using a cheap scope you may or may not get a good one and an AK can kill even a better scope. You should get at least 3-4" with good ammo at 100m using iron sights shooting from bench.

You can make one yourself from ~2" diameter metal tube and flat stock.

Ver. 21 Saiga has a sleeve in the trigger assembly, at least mine does.

Thanks for advice, I'm aware of what lightening does to movement of the carrier, adjustable gas port should help with that. Saigas use a AK-74 style carrier, right? Have to get one and see if it works.

Does anyone know if a bolt carrier from some more common AK works in the .308? Would need a spare one for an experiment to lighten the carrier.

Well, it depends. If you're going to use it for hunting or long range shooting I wouldn't cut the barrel. If you use it mainly for range shooting at moderate distances I don't think it matters much. I'd guess that factory .308 is loaded with 20"-24" barrels in mind.

Well, originally I had in my Saiga a 22" inch barrel that was cut to 17". It sure didn't hurt the accuracy, I'm now getting better groups with shorter barrel. Don't know if it's because of better barrel crown or because of practice or whatever, though. did you do it yourself? i have the long barrel but it is just too long. looking to cut mine down but really dont want to screw my gun up. i moved the FCG myself so i at least have a little ability. any tips? Nope, had gunsmith do the shortening. I wouldn't cut a rifle barrel without a lathe to make the muzzle all nice and square

Well now, I don't see the point in paying 80$ for trigger group if the problem can be cured with filed down washer welded or otherwise attached to the trigger. And/or with a spring. Below is a picture of a Saiga ver.21 trigger.

Spring isn't necessary if the gas tube rattling a bit doesn't bother you. Haven't had it in place since I first disassembled the rifle.

Well, the original trigger in my thumbhole stock Saiga .308 moves about 1mm sideways if pushed on purpose from the side, haven't had any problems with it with about 1000rds. So, safety didn't engage, does that mean that the trigger could be pulled when safety lever was up or that the safety lever couldn't be put to safe position? If it's the latter you can file it to fit and if former you can MIG-weld some more material to the safety. Been there, done that.

Well, originally I had in my Saiga a 22" inch barrel that was cut to 17". It sure didn't hurt the accuracy, I'm now getting better groups with shorter barrel. Don't know if it's because of better barrel crown or because of practice or whatever, though.