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txapacheguy

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About txapacheguy

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  1. I use the boresnake to clean the barrel, and a cheap aluminum rod to run an oiled patch down the bore. There are a few pieces of spare brass and aluminum rod in my kit. One is used to drive my gas puck out of the gas tube when my Saiga is dirty. The other is attached to an old 12GA brush. I place the rod into a cordless drill, and clean my gas port and its thread with a little "rotary action". All of my cleaning rods were probably obtained at Walmart, but my brass patch holders and other tools came from Cabelas, and a local gun shop here in Colorado...
  2. The part in the first picture might be needed, but the other two should be obsolete since you have converted your gun. The first part is the shepherd's crook. It is used to keep the trigger and hammer retaining pins in place. There are plenty of videos on this forum that show how to install the spring(shepherd's crook). If you obtained a retaining plate to hold your pins in place, you will not need the shepherd's crook, but I would keep it in your box of spares anyway.
  3. I think this thread might answer your question. http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/65885-import-stamp-removal/page__p__635370__hl__+removing%20+markings__fromsearch__1#entry635370
  4. Update on my project... I sent my bolt, carrier, and FCG out to Cobra 76 two to have them machined. The parts arrived a little over a week ago, and I hastily re-assembled the shotgun. Today is the first day I have had off work since the gun went back together, so I went to the mountains and tried it out. Since my last posts, I have removed the twister plug from my gun and replaced it with the MD Arms booster plug. For my trip to the range today, I fired some cheap federal game loads (7 1/2 shot, 1290fps) and the cheap bulk pack Remington sporting loads (7 1/2 shot 1200fps). I notic
  5. I bought the plug kit, but ended up plugging my S12 receiver holes with screws after the conversion. I had a leftover Tapco "Screw Build" kit from my conversion, and basically just selected four screws of the same head size that fit into the holes (without enlarging them), and threaded the hex nuts onto them inside the receiver and tightened them down. I feel that it looked better than the plastic plugs, and was not as labor intensive as welding or rivets.
  6. I do not think you are going to ever get "spot checked" at a range, but if I remember correctly, my FCG has the "Tapco G2" marking that is visible on the trigger outside the receiver. Again, that does not prove the origin of any other parts inside the receiver, but it would be a good indicator.
  7. I have the USA made UTG version of this rail on my gun. No complaints about the fit or finish of it whatsoever. I am still working the kinks out of my gun (Cobra76two has my bolt/carrier/fcg now), but I plan to keep the rail. You will find a few threads about possible FTE/FTF issues connected with the presence of this rail. I think it has something to do with the fact that the rail applies pressure to the gas tube, and/or causes some type of "harmonics" type issue. I also prefer the shorter of the two top rails that come with the kit. There is no good reason I can think of to keep the long
  8. Not sure I would want to weld up or plug the factory safety lever opening in the other side of the receiver. Neat Idea though...
  9. I bought the plastic plug kit from CSS for my S12 conversion a few weeks ago, and bought the Tapco screw build kit as well. I ended up using four of the screws from the kit along with nuts inside the receiver to plug the holes. The plastic plugs were a bit oversize, and I did not want to have to drill the receiver to put plastic plugs in it right away. I feel that the screws looked a bit better than plastic plugs, but its really a personal preference.
  10. There does not appear to be on either account. One of the two pieces of paper that comes with the drum covers the fitting procedure that is often required to get the drum to lock in to the gun, The other piece of paper covers ammunition selection, and loading procedures. There do not appear to be any adjustments on the outside of the drum to adjust spring tension. There is already one guy on this board trying to figure out how to get the promag 10 round drum back together after dismantling it for paint. I do not wish to add to that list right now, so it is not likely that I will ever take
  11. Thanks for the encouragement!!! I am certainly guilty of buying a few parts for this rig before doing the research, but I am going to get Cobra 76 two to shine all the internal stuff up for me later this week, and continue working on it until it will eat from the 20 round drums like a champ. I guess another thing that kind of discouraged me from test-firing it before the conversion was 922r compliance. I did not have any compliance parts for the gun yet, so I did not want to waste a trip to the range just to shoot from the factory mag. As it turns out, I think it would have worked jus
  12. Thanks. And yeah, I am kind of OCD about stuff like this and read the interwebs too much.
  13. ^^^ All this makes a lot of sense actually... The ship has already sailed on the fire control group and stock conversion, and there is no way I am putting the factory parts for those areas anytime soon. I already put the factory puck back in while test firing it yesterday. It does fine with the factory magazine, the ten round promag magazine, and either gas piston, although the hammer is definitely causing a lot of drag on the system. The 20 round drum was the only configuration that caused consistent FTE issues. If I get an opportunity tomorrow, I might try to put another hundred roun
  14. Thanks!!! I did all the modifications before firing it. I questioned the wisdom of said decision, but it came down to lack of time before the parts came in basically. Besides, I figured that with so many modifications in store for it, I would be dealing with a new set of internal parts to break in once complete and potentially a completely different set of engineering challenges. It also allowed me the luxury of a nice clean gun when I was working on it.
  15. I did notice that the factory mag would hold five rounds, but for some reason thought that four was what it was designed for... There are four gas ports on the gun. It appears that a 1/16 drill bit might easily fit in the holes, but a 5/64" drill bit will either be a bit close, or perhaps not fit. Good question!!! I neglected to add that to my list of things to correct if necessary. I am really not looking forward to having to remove that gas block!!!
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