Nephilim7

Also, do NOT use carburetor cleaner. It will ruin the finish and cause it to fade. Brake cleaner seems to be fine, though.

Rated muzzle velocity is needed to no dram equivalent. How many fps? The drum is a mag too. I assume you mean factory 5 round mag? Read about friction reduction. You have lumped many questions into a single thread. Try making multiple, focused threads, but before you do, use google to search the forum. You need to read. Everything you need is already addressed MANY times on this forum. Enjoy the process of gradually learning about this stuff. Slow down and learn, or likely be stuck with a bucket of parts and mags no one wants. WELCOME!

Stay stupid, my friends!

Well, that's embarrassing... Of course, that relief is where the bolt feed foot rests on breach lockup. Perfectly normal. My previous posts demonstrate definitively both that I should not post while exhausted and that I am definitely not shooting enough lately! I wonder if my wife will accept this as a reason to buy more ammo? Thanks CSSpecs! ***OP, what are we looking at???

I didn't get to zoom in (was on my phone), but it looks to me as though the rim of the chamber is chipped. Looks like a whole rectangular section is missing right at the bottom of the mouth of the chamber. I'm at work right now, so the Baracuda filter won't let the pictures load.

Wow. Have you had gravel in your gun? Running it without the dust cover or a left side charging handle? I would imagine it could be TIGed up and dressed down since the chamber doesn't appear to be affected much. Not sure though. I pursue that and would only allow a very competent smith to work on it. Cobra762 might be a good choice of he will take on the challenge. PM him. There are barrels to be had, but I would rather repair this one of it were mine. Be sure to let us know how it goes! I would also add: Have your locking lugs or timing channel been touched for work or polishing in

Stake it... Stake it... Stake the pin on both ends.

What's your secret? I have been trying to get in touch with them for a year now. They have never sent me the smoke back cover they said they would.

EVL has so nice vids and is opening his own smith shop soon. Subscribe to his channel! m.youtube.com/watch?v=TS280zrKtdg Or just search "evlblkwpnz cnc"

That would be Steve Grima of the UK. He has several homebrew items that are enviable. I respect the man and his outlook on sharing ideas. His videos betray many secrets, if you watch closely and think creatively about the parts. If you are blessed to be talented the way he is, the prospect of making those things is not difficult but a fun puzzle. I came close to trying to develop both of those myself (LRBHO and magwell drum), but I have been beaten to the punch by well established people in the industry. As I understand it, there are very talented individuals working on a drop-in last

Put both hammers on a screw driver shank. Then put the "ear" flats (where the trigger hooks retain the hammer) even with each other side by side. The aftermarket hammer will probably have a section of its face that stands taller that the factory piece.

You saw it in action?!? I thought that thing was a Photo Shop gag... Cool, but not practical for anything but range fun. Go for it OP!!!

NE - CRO. LOL Cool topic though! I hope to see some constructive responses. If not, PM Cobra (from above posts). I bet he can help you figure it out. If he does, post the relevant info back here for others (me).

S12 carriers are very different from other calibers. Best way to replace one is to buy one from a parted out gun or get an American made replacement from these guys: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/79392-bolt-carriers-now-on-sale/

It doesn't matter what generation it is. The CSS puc is a great product. What matters is the fit in your gun. As long as the puc rattles around in a clean gun with a closed bolt, you are fine. The CSS puc is engineered to make more efficient use of the available gas. It is a slightly tighter fit, diameter wise, so it allows less blow-by. This makes more efficient use of the gas available and causes the gun to run more cleanly. It also has an extra "cleaning channel" and is longer than the factory puc. The length takes up "slack" in the power stroke with the carrier. The increased puc size d

*** I have a first generation CSS Puc.*** I should not run my gun with the Auto Plug and CSS Puc, because that combination yields a condition where my carrier's left shoulder does not contact the front trunnion (near the breach). The AP and CSS puc are too long together, and this will lead to battering the neck of the already weakly designed carrier. I believe this has been addressed with the Gen 2 CSS Puc wich has been the only one available for a while. My Gen 1 CSS Puc will need to be trimmed down a little bit with a mill. I am talking about a few hundredths of an inch. The gap

I plan on holding out and ordering five of the 10 rounders. I think ten rounds is just right, and 5 of them would hould 2 boxes of shells. I just hope the springs are plenty stiff in the tens. I have no real worries about your product quality though. I am ignorant here: If I buy rock & lock mags and later get a magwell extension (JTE or 030), can the mags be ground to reliably run in an extended magwell? ETA: Oh, and working with Cobra's LRBHO is a dealbreaker for me. It is by far the number one most desirable part for me. LRBHO is the gaping hole in the S12 platform. C

You might look into the Federal 2 3/4" Tactical #1 buck (NOT #00). It is reduced flash and reduced recoil, but it ran great thru an MD20 drum with gas setting 1. The special wad delivers very tight patterns at distance. I have heard (just hearsay) that people are absolutely folding up coyotes at distances of 70 yards with it. Keep in mind the wad is different than most and may pattern better without a choke than with (test it). I would also suggest a red dot sight for coyotes. Don't own one, so I can't help you there. Be sure to post pics of your results! Happy hunting.

Not to be rude, but read up on these things and consult a few proffessionals before attempting a barrel. One mistake could be your last. Pick something else and stop making us nervous! Good luck with the hunting!

Can't wait! Who's going to Tulsa this weekend?

Details? Google: "Moly Resin". You will find John Norrell's website. Read everything on that site. It is crammed with excellent info and pics. I suggest starting with the "characteristics and benefits" section. To quote the site, "An eight ounce bottle will refinish 2 to 3 AR-15 rifles." Price for an 8 oz bottle is $29 shipped. Plastic safe, air dry mix is $30. A $20 airbrush (if you don't have one and can't borrow one) from a hobby store will apply it, and your kitchen oven will cure it in an hour. It is removable if you mess up spraying, but must be sand blasted off if it has cured

Jack knows his stuff and produces a great product. OR, you can do two guns at home, yourself for about $35. I will be doing the later.

I agree with your statement about the G2 trigger. Mine works very well as an overtravel limiter. About the seal: I don't know much about fluid dynamics, but I'll tell you what my gut tells me. I would imagine that channel creates a zone of disruption right at the area that needs sealed. During the short pulse of high pressure gas impingement, the gas flows into the channel ring and moves in swirling motion. This creates a boundary layer of gas flowing across the seam instead of out of the gas block, blocking outflow similar to an o-ring. In effect, a temporary seal of high speed gas

To quote a great philosipher: Not to be rude, but it's all here many times over. Learn by reading old threads. This will get you started: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/81707-gas-ports-under-sized/

Roadblock, My gas system is exactly the same as you described. My gun runs like a sewing machine and it has never had the block off. I was able to take a sharp dental pick and delicately run the tip from inside the forward port against the forward edge into the gas block until it slid easily past the lowest edge of the gas window. I stopped at that point and pushed back down into the port and the hook hung on the edge of the port. This proved the port walls where exposed at the farthest toward the gas block window they could be. I had to probe around for a few minutes to feel it out like a bl