Lone Eagle

I'll chime in here finally. My screen name was given to me by a Porch Creek classmate in high school. My family has Cherokee in it's lineage, and I took most of the Cherokee features. My friend noticed that I didn't run with the "in" crowd and thought for myself. I was always bucking the norm, especially with trends. Since then, this has been both my screen name as well as my CB handle for a time.

The 2nd "Y" just sits there and says, "You know you want to drill me out and install a pin, but the BATFE wouldn't like you for doing that. That is, unless you paid them the extra $$$ and got the paperwork."

PM sent on Russian Gas Tube.

I scored a Belarus MTK-83 (BP-01) mount on another forum. I wanted the high-mount because I'm replacing the rear sight with a Mojo Microclick as soon as it gets here. The high rise offers the option of using either scope or sights, which I like. I was browsing scopes, and came across this one on ak47accessories.com for almost half what other vendors want for it with free shipping: AIM Sports New Tactical 2.5-10x40 Illuminated P4 Sniper Rifle Scope Friend of mine has one on his DMPS .308, and said his was a good scope(even though he paid $130 for it elsewhere). I like the desi

Thanks. Kinda reminds me of the Mojo I ordered for the Mosin. Everywhere else was getting $70-$80 for them, but mojo.com had them for $65 shipped. "That CNCWarrior one should work fine for a 5.45 too right? " Yes, it should. You can't run a 5.45 on a 7.62 rifle, but you can run a 7.62 on a 5.45 rifle as long as your threads match.

Search engine is your friend. http://gunpoints.org/blog/archives/168

I found these over at One Source Tactical. http://www.onesourcetactical.com/bulgarianstyle24mmbirdcageflashhider.aspx Total with shipping is $45(9.99 flat rate ship).

No fitment issues, but be warned, the FSB and gas block are pressed on uber tight. I helped a friend replace his FSB on his Saiga last night, and we ended up having to use the neighbor's hydraulic press to get it loose. He now has a standard FSB and threads.

I have a couple of spots I want to touch up on the Arsenal, mainly the muzzle brake. The finish looks like BBQ paint, but want to be sure. I do have some semi-gloss 1500 degree engine enamel left from a mower rebuild I could use as well.

You left one option off the poll: Whichever I can get my hands on the cheapest. For my Com-bloc guns, it's normally steel unless I'm looking for deer/elk for the freezer, then I run 203gr Winchester or 203gr Silver Bear in the Mosin. For target in my .38, it's all brass. Target loads in my .40S&W(before I sold it to get my Arsenal) were whatever was cheapest, but normally Wolf or TulAmmo. When I get my new handgun, it will be whatever is cheapest on range day. I do have some brass x39 and x54r other than Yugo. I caught a sporting goods store closing here, and got everything

They all have "X and Y stamps", man. Does yours have a second Y stamp? That's the one that (potentially) matters. What's the issue with the 2nd Y stamp? Short answer: Second Y stamp can earn you some bad memories of Bubba at Club Fed. Wrong. Nope. It's what you do with the extra "Y" stamp that lands you in hot water without the proper paperwork.

My range requires either open bolt or a chamber flag. I made one from a .38 Special shell, and aluminum pop rivet, and a piece of neon orange plastic from my kid's Nerf gun.

Zootown, Montana. Can have SBR, full rock-n-roll switches, and cans. We don't promote gun ownership......we encourage it.

Yep. Those were made specifically for the Nanny States like NY and Commiefornia, and installed by the importer. Nice thing about cutting it is it takes the guesswork out of realigning the FSB. For a 14x1 die, check around on GB and Amazon. My cousin got his die for $25 shipped from an Amazon store. As far as cutting oil, I simply use 5W20 motor oil.

A cheap way to slug the barrel is get some "bullet weights" from the fishing section at Wal-Mart(or your favorite sporting goods retailer/outfitter). I picked up some years ago that measured .313, Bored the center hole out to 1/8" so it would give just a little, and used a long aluminum rod to drive it with. I haven't "slugged" the Arsenal, but may do that before my next shoot.

That would be a non-threaded Bulgarian FSB, or "Neutered Bulgy" as they are referred to on the SKS forums. What one guy did over there was removed the FSB and cut the forward portion off with a chop saw/Dremel tool, threaded the barrel, then reinstalled the FSB. Be warned, those FSB pins are a real bear to get out.

Don't know when I'll make it out next, but I have the following I could try in my Arsenal. Uly 123gr FMJ Wolf 123gr FMJ and 124gr HP Winchester 124gr FMJ(have 20 rounds left from SKS sight in) Silver Bear 125gr SP Yugo M67 Ball My Chicom SKS(20" barrel carbine) seems to like the Remington 123gr loads for hunting. I can keep a 1" group at 100 yds, and close to that with the Yugo in FMJ. Surplus ammo is what it is: something to go bang and toss lead downrange. However, it's better to have something that goes bang than a glorified war club, no?

Bump firing this one was a little tougher than my SKS, but doable with the right stance. I run my finger through the trigger guard, hook finger on belt loop, use left arm to pull the rifle forward and back, using the recoil to reset the trigger. Not very accurate, and mostly an ammo wasting experience.

Yep, both the bayo lug and the accessory lug are intact. I have a Chinese bayo I got off another board if I can remember which box I stuck it in...lol. Thanks, Post-apocalyptic. I couldn't find a model number on this one, but you just answered that question. They go for around $950 here now if you can find one NIB. They had a 5.45x39mm next to it for $850.

Well, my FFL bud called me last Saturday from the fun show. He had a lead on a Saiga AK conversion for me. It was at a local shop I've done a ton of business with in the past. I jumped in the truck, and tore over there. He had a Saiga alright.....an Arsenal build with the Warsaw length stock and Bulgy AK74 24mm brake on it. The rails had hardly any wear on them, bayonet lug was intact, and everything was tight. He said the previous owner didn't even break it in before he brought it back with issues. He couldn't find anything wrong other than the guy didn't break it in properly. As we w

Also remember, Saigas are factory new rifles, not some 20-50 year old reassembled parts kit. That is why I got mine so cheap. The previous owner didn't read the "200-500 round break in" part.

I have several cases of the Yugo M67, and shoot it on a semi-regular basis in my SKS and my new Saiga AK toy. It's not near as corrosive as some of the post-war Polish I run in my Mosin, but it is still corrosive primed ammo. Most don't know Hoppe's #9 was designed for corrosive ammo. I keep a spray bottle in my range bag just for the hour trip home. I spray the barrel/chamber/gas system liberally and wrap the gun in an old sheet before placing it in the case. When I get home, I go to work cleaning the rifle(s). Ususally the spray-down has all the gunk loosened up real nice for me. Loca

They all have "X and Y stamps", man. Does yours have a second Y stamp? That's the one that (potentially) matters. What's the issue with the 2nd Y stamp? Short answer: Second Y stamp can earn you some bad memories of Bubba at Club Fed.