TJohn

That sounds about right in the current market, before the election the cheapest Saiga .308's that I saw locally were going for $565 or more.

The 7.62 with the dempled receiver should have the hole for the pistol grip already, at least the two 7.62's that I converted did. Actually all the rifles that I have converted had the pistol grip hole already,including the .7.62, 5.45, .308 and .223 rifles and some of these were non-dimpled receivers. The only rifle that needed a hole drilled for anything was the .308 which needed one screw hole so the new trigger guard would fit. .Sounds like you got lucky on the mag catch issue, I had to hit mine slightly with a dremel/file to get the surplus mags to work, i.e., snap in properly.

I am not the OP but I used a dremel with a tungsten carbide bit with the mag catch still on the rifle. You have to watch to make sure you don't slip off the piece and mar your finish but it isn't difficult. Check the fit of your mag frequently till you get it where you want Like everyone has said it is best to use a steel surplus mag to fit the mag catch as the Tapco mags are a little thick in the mag catch area, but they will work in fine if you fit the catch to a steel surplus mag.

Did you experience the same problem with your factory Saiga mag? Try your factory mag if you haven't already, it sounds like more of a problem with the SGM mag rather than the rifle itself. It has been my experience that some SGM mags need fitting to the rifle in order to fit and/or work properly. You might look into a CSSpecs mag or Unita mags if you want greater than 8 round capacity. You could contact SGM for a replacement mag, pehaps the mag is flawed somehow.

The trigger group you have pictured looks like the standard single hook Tapco group that everyone uses when they move the trigger group forward on a conversion. I am not sure that there is even an aftermarket trigger out there for Saiga rifles that will work without moving the trigger group forward. I haven't seen the stock trigger replaced without moving it forward. Since you have the trigger you might as well move it forward and get the rifle back to it's intended configuration.

I had a Smith & Wesson MP15-R that I shot thousands of steel cased Monarch 5.45x39 ammo (the kind coated with the red lacquer) through and never had a jam or failure to extract, with very minimal cleaning. You will see lots and lots of red flakes and junk in your rifle but I never seen a jam caused by it. I believe the problem is more with the steel case not expanding as much as the brass in the chamber letting soot and powder residue build up in the chamber, rather than the lacquer itself. However, the lacquer does seem to get into and build up in the firing pin channel and under the

Disassemble the mag, i.e,. remove the spring and follower like you would for cleaning and run a good magnet around the body of the mag and see if it sticks anywhere. No need to cut up a perfectly good mag.

Not always, I have done two 5.45 Saiga conversions and on one I did not have to touch the mag catch at all; and on the second I just had to do a very slight filing to work with surplus mags (nothing to the extent I had to with the 7.62 or .223 Saiga rifles). Like others are saying, tnmarktx, the mag catch and bullet guides aren't really that big of deal after you have done one or two.

Try this for info on Florida concealed carry: http://licgweb.doacs.state.fl.us/weapons/index.html. Each State is different. In Oklahoma if you have concealed carry permit, you can carry a long gun in the vehicle with magazine loaded but no round chambered; and of course you can carry your concealed carry pistol/revolver/derringer loaded and round chambered. In Oklahoma if you do not have a concealed carry permit any firearms in the vehicle must be unloaded, no rounds chambered and no mag with rounds inserted in the firearm. Additionally for hand guns if you have no concealed carry perm

Gabe Suarez doesn't allow them in classes either, see here: http://www.warriortalk.com/showthread.php?49242-More-Serpa&highlight=serpa+holster+banned.

Do you have this stock http://store.carolin...NTRAFUSE/Detail? or This one http://store.carolin...BLE-AK47/Detail? If it is the first one, it is for an unconverted Saiga and the pistol grip screws to the stock. If you are moving the triggergroup forward using this one you will have to move the pistol grip up to the original AK position in order for it to be in the correct place. I have one of these laying around, I will have to look at it and see what screw the pistol grip used. You will also have a little long area of the stock right behind the receiver which you wont have if

As far as the sheperds hook/retaining plate, really it is your preference. Personally I think the retaining plate is easier. The Sheperds hook isn't that bad to install though either but there are different shapes and styles out there. The Saw grips are economical, give you a more substantial grip and storage area for small parts, and are basically a pretty decent grip for the price. I eventually switched mine out for US Palm grips on my conversions. You will most likely need to install the bullet guide on the 7.62 for reliable function with surplus mags. Neither one of the 7.62 c

I think the retaining plates are easier, they are basically drop in on the .223, 5.45x39 and 7.62x39, at least in my experience. However, I used a shepards hook on my .308 conversion as the retaining plate required to much fitting to my liking to work on it. Most pistol grips will come with their own screw. I haven't used the trigger guard that comes iwth the built in pg nut, you might contact the vendor to make sure you got everything you need.

So you got it fixed? If so, what did you do? Did you shoot it before the conversion, and did it work then? Did you intall a bullet guide? If yes, perhaps you got it too far to the right in the receiver and it is not letting the bolt rotate closed. 12vman said: "The only thing I did different on this one is that i re used the disconnector spring out of the saiga and put it in the tapco group.....could that be it?" That should be fine unless there is some problem with the tapco group. There apparently have been some issues in the past with this. Did you functio

I am suprised and frankly somewhat disappointed that someone hasn't mentioned JB weld due to it's populariity with bullet guide installations. After all JB Weld is an one stop fix.

If my memory serves me right, it should be just forward of the factory trigger under the Y shaped yolk that connects the factory fire control group to the stock trigger.

Like everyone above said, the BHO is up to you, I left it off all my conversions (saved the parts if I ever decide that I want it in. I just used the stock safety; haven't heard anything bad about the Krebs safety, appears it could be quite handy. The saw grips are an improvement over the skinny stock grips, but I wound up using US Palm grips on all my conversions (they seem similiar to Magpul grips for AR's).

Straydog is right, hammer and punch is the best way to remove a broken tap, they are really brittle.

I have two, one on a M1A and the other is on a AR15, just using Russian slings on the Saiga's so far. The MS3 seems well made, and seems pretty durable. It is easily adjusted and the locking clips are a nice feature too.

Well said! I for one am glad that you had the incentive and took the risk to provide an alternate source of mags for the Saiga .308, and have a continuing interest in improving them as possible. Options are always good to have.

When I first got my csspecs mags in, I thought, geez these are heavy (but really they are pretty comparable to surplus steel ak mags in weight anyways). I have three csspecs 10 rounders that have been flawless so far, no feeding issues whatsoever, they have functioned 100% . They fit tight in the magwell on my Saiga .308, but no so tight that they are difficult to insert. In other words, no fitting was required to make them work. The followers on mine seem to work just fine. I haven't ran them through a class, but they have had lots of rounds ran through them and haven't experienced any fe

It should run fine with any of those on that page. I usually run wolf, WPA, Tul ammo, Silver Bear and Monarch through mine, just depending on whats available. I have shot very little brass cased ammo through my Saiga rifles. I have constistently stayed with 50, 55 or 62 grain ammo, basically due to price and availability.

Do you have a picture of it installed, looking down at the top of the rifle? Does it touch the gas tube? or What kind of clearance is there?

Careful here. The amount of variation between these rifles is so great that what works on your rifle can screw things up on others. I had to remove material from the feedlips of the Weigers, but doing so on the Circle 10s would have resulted in wobbly mags. As you said, they need to press against the lugs at the top front sides of the mag wells in order to lock up tight. Everyone has to determine for themselves what fitting steps (if any) are needed for their own rifle. It's sad that that's the case, and is the reason why I wouldn't buy another Saiga 223. An SLR106 would be a better choice, an

With respect to the clear/smoke circle 10 twenty round mags that I use in my .223 Saigas (a 2006 and 2009), I took very little off of the interdiction tabs on two .223 conversions. On the last one I am not really sure that it needed it all that much, but did seem like mag insertion was a little easier, but the mags were inserting before i touched the interdiction tab. The biggest thing I see that needs to come off with these mags is the very front of the feed lips on each side (maybe 3/16 or 1/4 inch from the very front corner on each side of the mag to where the lips start to rise going to