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rob0126

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Everything posted by rob0126

  1. i called murray and asked about the procedure. he said he uses his lathe to make a place for a spring, along with a bushing. said its about 1-1.5lb spring and have only had a few saigas maybe scratch the primer but no where near enuff to fire them off. im considering getting this done but wont be back for a few weeks. wish he had spare bolts so i could just purchase one already done, so the rifle wouldnt be down for a week. we need a distributor to sell factory saiga parts.
  2. i emailed ben murray and he said he could modify the bolt to accept a spring, long as the pin is the flat type for 30 plus return shipping.
  3. It's quite simple. The .39 is already free floating. It's free-floating because it has no spring. Im sorry, I mistyped. I meant is their a kit or just a single spring I can add to the current one to make it a spring loaded firing pin, instead of free floating?
  4. The 7.62x39 vepr has one and it can also use a regular free floating one. I can swap in a vepr spring loaded one into a saiga bolt. The firing pin itself is notched to retain the spring. A saiga bolt could use either type with no mods required. However, bear in mind, the saiga/vepr bolt uses a 74 style firing pin. Do you have any pictures to compare, so I can order the exact part to swap out the free floating pin, for a spring loaded one, for my 7.62x39? thanks! Robert
  5. Is their a spring you can add to the firing pin of a 7.62x39 Saiga, so the firing pin would be free floating?
  6. Ok, so the cartridge has to be in the chamber, for the pin to protrude out the back of the rear of the bolt face, while it's engaged with the chamber, right? I didnt want to put a cartridge in the chamber for safety reasons, being inside the house. I noticed the manual says dont dry fire the gun. But considering the firing pin doesn't protrude out the back, with no shell in the chamber, I would guess it's only harming the rear bolt face, no?
  7. Your question was already answered in post #2. No it didn't. Im asking how this mechanism works, so I better understand it. I dont like going blind into anything. I understand a spring loaded system, not a free floating one: I guess I need someone to lay it out for me technically. The firing pin is prevented from moving all the way forward by a live primer. This allows for enough rear length so that the hammer can tag the pin. So does this mean it's a 2 piece firing pin? What Im trying to figure out is, what mechanism pushes the firing pin out the rear enou
  8. So would CorBon jhp's be the safer option?
  9. Received my Saiga 7.62x39 today. Imported by TGI, 09 serial, No step in the barrel.
  10. Might have to pick one up sometime then.
  11. Here's my last question about it: How exactly does the hammer strike the firing pin, when the pin is not protruding out the rear of the bolt, seeing as the hammer then, will only hit the rear of the bolt face? thanks
  12. Haven't had the opportunity to shoot it yet. Have to wait a couple weeks, thats why Im asking.
  13. Ahh, ok. So even pulling the bolt fully back, then letting it fly, to strip a cartridge, and engage, won't set a primer off?
  14. The firing pin is prevented from moving all the way forward by a live primer. This allows for enough rear length so that the hammer can tag the pin. Still puzzled. If I turn the bolt upside down, the firing pin will protrude out from the surface of the bolt face hole, and back in by turning it back up. The manual says the .223 versions have a spring, so Im guessing the rest of them dont. My concern is slam fires, like an SKS. How is this prevented on a Saiga? thanks
  15. I just received my 'sporter' Saiga 7.62x39. Imported by TGI w/ 09 serial. Also has no step in the barrel. After looking over the rifle quite a bit, I noticed how the firing pin is setup, in relation to the hammer. My question is, is the firing pin free floating? Because it looks like it is, and was wondering how, when the hammer drops, that it hits the pin consistently, with no tension on it to stick out from the rear body of the bolt? I dont understand how the pin gets hit by the hammer, thus popping the primer on the cartridge. I do see how the bolt rotates as it comes up
  16. New WPA MC 124gr HP or older Wolf MC 124gr HP? Am looking for a report on the new stuff. Ditto the new Tulammo 124GR HP. 124 gr FMJ, looks new. Laquered on primer and bullet.
  17. Ordered Friday, Shipped Friday, Arrived Monday. More than quick enough for me. Everything arrived as promised. Appreciate the 5% discount.
  18. I was really considering a mosin, at $89. Do they kick like a 30-06?
  19. Scouring the net, I found: ClassicArms.us has them for $299.99 (bought mine from them since CSS ran out of the 7.62's) J&G Sales dropped them to $299.99
  20. Prolly wont be able to test some varying ammo this week, but in a couple, will give some info on Tula, Wolf MC, and the yugo surplus, on a stock sporter model rifle.
  21. Basically I just want a good home defense round, so if I ever needed to use it, the bullet wouldn't go thru my walls, into my neighbors apartments. So I was ponding the extreme shocks or cor bon jhps.
  22. Congrats. Have you looked inside the barrel where the case neck of the cartridge sits, to see if their is a step in the barrel? The best way I suppose to know this without looking is: Look at your spent casings, and let us know if any of the case necks are swollen. I ask because Im gonna receive my TGI imported Saiga this week. The person I ordered it from said their was no step in the one they are sending me. Here is the thread about this issue: http://forum.saiga-1...-swelling-pics/ Just curious. thanks
  23. Yes, I want to keep it totally stock atm. And Chile, That's a good list, and so the parts that take the most wear is what Id like to stock up on. Who sells the complete stock bolt? Would be good to have a supplier of just the stock sporter parts, for folks who don't want to convert at this time.
  24. I was curious where I could get some spare parts for the stock saiga 7.62x39. Like the firing pin, and pins, recoil spring, and other parts that might wear out or break, eventually. Ive noticed a lot of AK parts, but would these work also in the saigas? Or do we have to order these straight from Russia? thanks
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