Gh()st

Perfect. Thanks for the measurement!

I bored mine out for the sake of safety. But mine Also works great What size bit did you use to open it up? I have a '74 style I'd like to do the same on.

Any still available? (PM Sent)

Almost done. I just need to go shoot to confirm the FSB is good to go, and then drill/pin it to the barrel. After that, just need to tighten up some of the cosmetics, and a refinish to cover the marks from the conversion. Thanks to Cobra for the awesome custom G2 trigger work!

Thanks Horse, that's exactly what I needed to know. Putting an order in for one now.

How far does the mounting interface protrude out from the left side on the receiver once attached? (what's the total distance from receiver edge to outside edge of the AKML?)

The Tula 124gr HP's have the Uly 8m3 projectile. The WPA 124gr HP's do not use the Uly 8m3 projectile. The older/previous Wolf Military Classic 124gr HP's do have the Uly.

Don't suppose you'd like to give up the source?

Just saw over on another forum that Spike's Tactical is making a Dynacomp brake for the AK platform. There were pics posted of both a prototype 14mm LH, and 24mm brake on a Krink. Production units were noted to be 416R SS w/ Melonite finish. Linky to ARF.com http://www.ar15.com/...AK_.html&page=3

The Academy stuff is Barnaul manuf/contracted specifically for their stores. IIRC it's essentially Brown Bear. (same load, casing, and projectile).

There are countless threads out there on the subject, but overall I think the majority will advise a Tapco G2 (for varying reasons I'm not going to elaborate on). It will require some modification IIRC, especially if you want to keep the BHO. If want something more custom, or you don't want to perform the necessary modifications yourself, there are options to purchase pre-modded FCG's. (Check out the FS/Trade section)

Nice, been looking/hoping for US made for a while now. Tagged for follow-up, and further status.

Ah, ok. Gotcha. Time to put a few orders in then. Thanks!

I've read in other threads where it's mentioned that the Wolf/WPA 124 gr HP's are no longer the 8M3 projectile. (gotta go the Tula 124 gr HP for it) My question is, how can you tell which WPA 124 gr has the 8M3? Would it be the laquered HP's, and the new non-8M3's are poly?

So what does the L.C.B stand for on the box?

I know there are lots of discussions about diff rattle can paints (high temp, grill, automotive, etc), but I don't recall anyone commenting on this product: http://www.rutland.com/productinfo/1200f-stove-paint.html Listed as 1200 degree stove paint. Anyone tried/have experience with this product on their rifle/shotgun/firearm? Local hardware store has it on clearance from $13/can down to $4/can.

Did BC stop making/selling these? I had a link to their store for the AKBC, but now it doesn't work. A search on the site only pulls up previous promo announcements. I was seriously considering an AKBC as well (although the price tag is/was steep). I even saw a purported prototype 24mm version in the wild too.

Perfect! Thanks.

Bi-metal/copper over steel, with lead core?

So I've got a dilemma, and could use some input. I'm about to convert an '09 7.62, and the rifle has all the well known indications of having the factory threads. (Plus, I can actually see the beginning of the threads under the sleeve @ the muzzle crown) I've got a Bulgy '74 FSB with 24mm threads. Would replacing the stock FSB with the Bulgy require cutting/removing part (or all) of the factory threads, or can the end of the barrel be left intact underneath? The reason for the Bulgy is that I want a bayo lug to attach the cleaning rod. (No plans for an actual bayonet right now) I c

Any info on how you fabricated the folder using the wood stock? You weld the tang back onto the folding mechanism?