Spacehog

My preference is a light carbine that can quickly be converted to an intermediate range gun. The base DMPS for 600 bucks is very accurate out of the box. This was the route that I went, and then added a better stock, removable bipod and decent glass. The overall weight is still low and I can still hit 4" steel plates out to 200 yds every time I pull the trigger. My buddy just built a 20" bull on the DPMS lower with the Nikon M223 glass, and I can still out shoot him with a basic setup. There is no doubt he has a better gun which is capable of greater accuracy. The question is how much accu

I have the 18" barrel with only three gas ports and it cycles low brass fine. I agree with most of the others though. I would keep it as is and buy a second. That is one long barrel though especially with the shark brake.

That would do it

Clay, Have you looked at the receiver internals, bolt, and FCG for any odd wearing that might indicate the bolt hitting something on blowback and slowing it down? It seems I read a post a while back where the OP was having similar issues out of the blue and it turned out to be one of the trigger guard screws that had backed out enough to slow down the bolt carrier operation. Just a thought as it doesn't appear to be an undergas problem based on the things you have already done.

What I have learned from lesson #1: Let's now remove 8 zeros and pretend it's a household budget: * Annual family income: $21,700 * Money the family spent: $38,200 * New debt on the credit card: $16,500 * Outstanding balance on the credit card: $142,710 It confirms that with the 8 zeroes added back on our federal government is 100,000,000 times worse than the average idiot that doesn't know how to live within his means.

Thanks Ironhead. I am indeed fortunate and very thankful.

Actually thank you all. Your posts help me put things in proper perspective.

After thinking about it, leaving the patina (yes I heard you 20-mags) better honors my grandfather than restoring the rifle. It represents a lifetime spent in use as it should be. I'll take care of the rust with continual oiling, but the rest I am going to leave untouched. Thanks to all for the advice. Below are the pics:

Very nice DaveM. It looks like the blueing on yours may be a bit better than mine. At this point, I am going to just give it a thorough cleaning and oiling. Good luck with yours as well. The things are well built so I imagine you will be sending lead down range with no problems.

They are coming Mullet Man. I just got to complete the 14 hour drive back from Michigan with the kids in the back seat. Both girls so we have to stop and pee every 15 minutes. I'll post them this evening.

Thanks. You all are echoing my initial thoughts as well. As with all fire arms the value is predicated on the condition. Based on what I have researched, rifles in similar condition with similar serial numbers are going for 800 to 1200 dollars. Regardless, I won't even consider a DIY restoration despite my love for tinkering with guns and building Saigas. I am curious if a professional restoration would negatively impact value, however this gun will never be sold or leave the family either. I'll have to put some further thought into it. Thank you for the comments and advice.

PM Sent

Looking for some expert advise from you all on the forum. I just inherited a Winchester Repeating Arms model 1890 .22 caliber short after the death of my grandfather. It was made in 1911, and was his boyhood hunting rifle. I remember shooting this rifle when I was 12, and "Sarge", his Springer Spaniel immediately running the woods to scare up rabbits in Michigan. The rifle has alot of sentimental value to me, but unfortunately hasn't seen any oil on the blueing for 20+ years. It has spots of rust all along the octagonal barrel, otherwise the blueing is good. I have oiled the rifle well but

I looked at doing the same with the ATI and hi point 995. I don't care what anyone says I think the combination looks cool. Problem for me is all I shoot in handgun caliber is .45 and unfortunately ATI refuses to make the stock for it. I almost talked myself into the Berreta Storm in .45, but then common sense got the better of me. I went with a run of the mill DPMS Sportical Carbine, slighty cheaper, better range and ballistics, and high capacity mags. Now that I think of it, I would still like to have that Beretta.

That's a shame aubie15, because I would be interested but won't be driving to PA. Any chance you want to drive to Birmingham, AL to sell it ? J/K. Good luck on the sale, I don't think you will have problem finding a buyer.

Here's one (2) for you. If Saiga barrels are chrome plated, how come they're not shiny? Is Russian chrome different than 56 Buick chrome? Yours isn't shiny??!! Haven't you done the chrome auto paste wax power buffer mod yet?

I'm thinking like you. Dunno about your friends though, LOL. We just kinda got into a "oneupmanship" game. It's all good though because we end up with what we more or less wanted anyway. Very interesting revolver. I might have to check into those. Pistols or rifles? I watched a video of the carbine disassembled and while it was different, it didn't seem difficult. Edit; Oops, I didn't see where you specified rifles initially. Still, it didn't seem too bad. Can't argue that except to say the new ones look better than the old ones. Guess you can put lipstick on a p

Personally I have never understood the contempt for the hi point carbines. While they are not the prettiest guns out there, they are good shooting guns, reliable, and fun to shoot. I have shot the 4095 and the 995 and would be proud to own one. I think it would be a great gift. Which brings me to my second thought...Apparently I need to reassess my pool of friends.

I am in Birmingham. Chelsea to be exact. I wouldn't consider myself an expert, but have converted two and am very comfortable with the conversion process. Shoot me an email with your contact info, I'll be happy to help. Darek Wood

PM sent. If anyone else knows of a place that has the draco mini (in stock) please pm me and let me know. Even if it is a local shop that would be willing to ship to my FFL. I am ready to purchase and can't find one in stock anywhere. Thanks

That is simply one of the most beautiful M1 restorations I have seen. Congratulations and enjoy.

You can grind down to point where the block is making contact. My only suggestion is make sure you don't take too much off and misalign the screw holes.

Actually the cheap pipe cutter that I had wouldn't go through the entire shroud. The cutting wheel would become dull. I just used the start of the cut as a guide and used a precision hack saw to finish it. I could feel when I broke through the shroud due to the small gap between the shroud and threads. Just take it slow and easy.

Same issue when I did mine. Cutting and grinding the tang wasn't enough. I also had to take a lttle off the top vertical edges to square it up. I got mine flush, but if the screws are tight and the block is secure, I wouldn't worry about it functionally. I only squared mine because it bothered me visually.