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Inebriated

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About Inebriated

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  1. I'd recommend going for a Primary Arms Micro Dot instead, simply because you do open up your mounting options. Both are good budget optics, but the Bushnell has an integrated base, where PA's have removable bases that use Aimpoint mounts. So if you got the PA, you could pair it with an RS AKML mount, which will be a solid mount that returns to zero AND offers a lower-1/3 cowitness.
  2. I have used one just like that.... The unsupported rail at the front broke off under recoil. Don't cheap out on optics or you'll waste more money in the long run. Being able to use iron sights is a worthless point when the mount is QD, and if it were a quality one, you wouldn't have issues returning to zero. That said, most quality QD mounts allow cowitness. If you're adding a red dot, use RS Regulate or Midwest Industries. RS and MI both make a 30mm mount meant for a 30mm tube-style optic (Aimpoint PRO/M2/M3/C3, Vortex StrikeFire, some of PA's clones). If you're mounting a red dot that uses Aimpoint micro hardware (Aimpoint T1/T2/H1/H2, Vortex SPARC, PA Micro, etc.), RS makes a great mount. What kind of dot are you planning on using? Optics and mounts can get pricey, but trust me... When you get a solid optics setup, it's worth it.
  3. You could always get it shortened and have a muzzle device permanently attached. ADCO will do it for fairly cheap if you send them just your barrel, and they do good work. It won't be as inexpensive as the '74 route, but it'll work, and as a side-benefit, handle quite nicely. Also, I have a '74 FSB and Arsenal comp I wouldn't mind selling. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.
  4. Thanks, and no problems with the heat and the sling. I'm sure I could run it hard enough to start making it stick, but it'd take work. Thank you sir.
  5. I made life easy with the FSB.... I initially did a '74 style FSB and brake, but I didn't want it on that particular rifle, so I scrapped it for a Venom, and threaded the barrel... Made timing the comp simple, since I could thread until it was where I wanted with the crush washer.
  6. You mean like a standard AK-AR stock adapter?
  7. I put a Bulgarian FSB on one, a Venom FSB/GB combo on another. Both easy to install. For centering, set the receiver on a level table/bench/counter, and get two carpenter's squares (or anything straight), and stand them on both sides of the FSB. You'll be able to tell with ease how centered it is. Then, you'll probably need to drill new grooves (since yours are likely canted), so a 1/8" bit will do. After that, either buy 1/8" pins, or take some 1/8" drill stock, cut it to length, and heat treat it (place on magnet, hold blow torch to it until it falls off the magnet and have it land in water). That's the process I have always used to fix/install FSB's (I did buy pins until I saw Jim Fuller's video on how to make your own, which is how I do it now), and it's worked fantastically.
  8. Need to straighten it. If you've got a drill, blow torch, a mallet, and some cereal boxes, you'll have no problem doing it.
  9. Get a good comp and keep the drill in its case...
  10. Nice. Did some a couple of hunts with my AK's this season.
  11. Recoil pads give somewhat inconsistent muzzle movements, at least the excessively squishy ones.
  12. Well, it'd probably help most if you narrowed down what you're looking for in an AK. Things like aftermarket support, accuracy to a certain design (AKM, AK-47, AK-100 series, etc.), shear looks, etc. Because AK's, the most common ones, anyway, all function about the same. The differences come down to collectability, fit and finish, stuff like that.
  13. Could be, but I wouldn't really think so... Most 7.62x39 AK barrels are right around the same profile to accept the same barrel components. If you have a set of calipers, you can easily see the barrel profiles for each. You'd have to post each aspect of your setups to see what savings are where.
  14. The kits come with a modified G2 to work with the bolt hold-open, so if you plan on using that, then the kits make sense. If not, then save a few bucks and buy it all separately to save the few $$ on the unmodified G2. As for kit 1 vs 2, kit 1 has a milled trigger guard with integral grip nut, which is $40 on the site. Kit 2 has the stamped trigger guard, which is $17 and you need a $3 grip nut. Doesn't matter which one you use. I think having an integral grip nut is convenient, but not $20 convenient. Plus, it's a different look that I don't care for. I have a stamped one from them that is just fine.
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