Jump to content

rjwillow

Contributor
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    64

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About rjwillow

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  1. rjwillow
    Burnishing in this case would be rubbing the entire surface with moderate pressure with a hardwood dowel or polished drill rod. Even a smooth polished/chromed screwdriver shaft would work. The goal is to close up the cells of the wood and compress them a bit. It makes the stain absorbtion more uniform. You will get less blotchiness and no darkening of the end grain. More of a back and forth motion taking long passes when possible. Start with about the same amount of pressure you would use with an eraser on a pencil and add more until you see the surface get shiny then add a bit more spe
  2. rjwillow
    If you don't get a beech forend, you can follow the method I described. Just sand the first dye/shellac coat down to the minimum of black streaks and continue with the method. The Beech stock may need a coat or 2 more to get to the same shade(or close enough). Or you can hit the Beech with a walnut stain before the black shellac.... I've touched up tons of instruments over the years in tons of different shades and colors. Pretty good at color matching by now... But believe it or not, Black (and White) are tougher to get right... But the distance between the 2 parts will make it a lo
  3. rjwillow
    Getting the Beech forend will make life easier. I have a lot of experience with finishing Beech from my previous life as a Violinmaker and repairman... Beech is hard and waxy but usually will take any finish. To get a uniform finish, I would seal and/or burnish the entire surface. You can seal the wood with cut shellac or burnish it with a hard maple dowel or a polished drill rod. You said that you wanted maximum "pop" from the grain. One way to do that: Seal the grain with cut shellac... 2-3 coats. You can just rag it on. 2-3 coats can be done in 4-5 hours. Leave it overnight and
  4. rjwillow
    Hi, Nick... Yup... don't file the front of the tube at all. FUBAR'ed my first one like that... Look at the original tube and note the angles milled into them. If you have a new Polish or Bulgy tube , it will most likely be dead flat on the receiver end. You will need to match those angles and fit accordingly. Once you start roughing it in, hit the mating surfaced with dykem blue or even black sharpie... you will see scrub marks and know where to take off. A few passes with a fine mill file at a time.. One thing to keep and eye on is the right side shoulder of the tube... see if it
  5. rjwillow
    I like my hogue forend. If feels right to me. But I have hogue stuff on a lot of my guns so it's a feel that I'm used to. If you can find a FDE one, it makes sense to match your grip. The newer ones are supposed to have a matching top/gas tube cover. Older ones are just black. Make sure you get what you want... I don't plan on hanging anything off them. So the rails and top cover with the rail are relegated to the junk drawer. I have a retainer spring in the top handguard and it is nice and tight. The hogue top guard has the cut out for it. Don't think if it would be tight enough for
  6. rjwillow
    Basically... it's hot water that does the work. Then lube it. But I'll give some insight into some of the other stuff and some other recipes. The windex thing comes from when they used to make an ammonia free product with vinegar and lemon. I used to have a 5 gallon bucket with 4 gallons of water and 1/2 a bottle of that windex in my truck. I would take the grips offf my blackpowder and fast draw guns that shot blackpowder blanks and drop them in. After sloshing around in there on the way home from the range or competition everything was nice and loose. I'd drop them into another empty
  7. rjwillow
    Torch will do it. Don't really have to get it cherry red. Just get it to glow a bit and let it cool on its own. A carbide bit at a slow speed will do it too. Cutting fluid will help. Being nicely punched will help. Do NOT use a hammer drill. That's for soft materials.... well, softer than hardened steel. You'll shatter your bit and probably worse bouncing all over the place. I have a hand punch press that would have done a good job if I could find it. It has carbide bits and has gone through harder and thicker stuff in the past.
  8. rjwillow
    I'll second that motion.... recoil is negligable. I only notice what little there is when I rest it on the bench.. I put a 74 brake on mine just for looks and for the sound. I can only imagine what a 5.45 is like with the brake and all.... Any word on the reset thing? later rich
  9. rjwillow
    First of all... I think I have an answer to your red dot question: The one that Looks like an acog but is a red dot w/crosshairs is a bushnell. Sightmark makes one that is similar (probably in the same factory in china). Anyway... back to the reset issue: You can take everything out but the hammer and see if there is any interference with a screw,net, etc. I reused mySaiga stock triggerguard and the screw I used was long enough to foul the reset. Used a shorter screw and thinner nut just to be sure. All is OK now. Also, you can take out the hammer and look for rub marks where it mi
  10. rjwillow
    Most likely a trigger guard screw too high and fouling the action. But also check that the hammer spring is sitting solidly on the trigger legs. Sometimes it slips to the side or gets up on the BHO (if you have one). You can bend the spring more inboard for a more positive hold. Still I think it's a high TG screw.... not that I have any personal experience with it.... later rich
  11. rjwillow
    Yup... in front of the firing line by 10' sometimes. I get a lot of "abandoned" brass that way. If it's completely trashed, I toss it. Otherwise, don't worry about the dings and such...
  12. rjwillow
    You sorta need the bayo lugs on the gas tube abd FSB for the cleaning rod to work. I pressed on a new GB and FSB so I could have a rod and Lower retainer. I've seen a post here doing the thread in job. But I still think it looks better with the lugs.
  13. rjwillow
    You will be FL sizing anyway. Just reload them and chuck anything that worries you too much. I use range pickup brass for my Saiga along with stuff hat is out of my specs for my bolt guns and precision rifles, I have a "pool" of brass dedicated for "down and dirty" reloads....
  14. rjwillow
    Here's another thing I did on my 223 conversion: I used 10-32 hex, pan head screws from a screw build kit to fill the leftover Saiga FCG holes. I tapped the existing hole to 10-32 and installed the screws with locktite. The holes on one side are undersize. So the tap is nice and tight. On the other side it is a little bigger than the minor diameted of the thread but the tap still bites enough. The locktite will take care of that. But if you want, you can put a nut of some sort on the inside for more piece of mind. But here's the best part... I used the rearward most hole on the left s
  15. rjwillow
    Hey Folks... I wanted to make my selector lever a little more finger friendly and be able to keep some semblance of a firing grip while managing the safety. This is what a came up with: I used a leftover 10-32 screw from a screw-build kit. It was hex-pan head when it started. I chucked it into my drill press and brought down the head height and diameter to fit into the stamped channel on the back of the selector. I drilled and tapped 10-32 through the appropriate location on the lever. I installed the screw from the backwith locktite and put a knurled nut on from the front. The nut
×
×
  • Create New...