5thShock

Are the primers of the rounds that don't fire getting hit at all? When the rifle does not fire is the bolt all the way forward? Is this happening with just one batch of ammo? Remove the dust cover and the bolt carrier group and look down at the hammer. Is it sitting straight and is the hammer pin all the way into the receiver? Are both ends of the hammer spring sitting pretty on the hammer? Remove the bolt and push on the back of the firing pin. Does it move smooth without hanging up?

Try cycling the bolt carrier/bolt with the gas tube removed.

Same same as Rokkyt. Check this before you attack the sight.

I thought I knew where that stuff was, know I got it...somewhere. I do know that with some old IMI ball the rifle grouped better than "official" (iron sights). I think the slushing is a preservative oil to prevent corrosion in storage and shipping.

Unconverted long barrel. Tried a PSO 1 and it shot well but I didn't care for the weight and balance. The factory irons are lined up when I snap the rifle up.

Remove the dust cover and cycle the action by hand and see how the piston enters the rear sight block. Does it go in straight without scraping? Our Romanian rifles from Century have welded and rigid pistons and they work fine.

Yes it is for an AK, not a Saiga. Your drawings are good enough and clear. Please let us know how this works out.

"(I used an AMD-65 guide rod without the step on the "button".)" My understanding is that the Saiga 308 recoil spring assembly includes a mechanical buffer at the rear, the pinned and pivoting part. If this is true you may want to modify the cover to fit it. Good looking rifle, the longer sight radius must be nice.

http://www.krebscustom.com/CustomParts.html Scroll down to: KREBS CUSTOM AR-15 STYLE PEEP SIGHT This one will be pricier than the Mojo. The factory irons can get you into a pie plate at two hundred yards, a torso at three hundred.

There is a video on the net that shows an AK firing, slow motion with the dust cover off. I remember thinking when I saw it that it looked as though the bolt carrier was not quite hitting the rear trunnion. Could it be that manual cycling by pulling the bolt carrier ALL the way back is actually chambering the round with a bit MORE force than subsequent rounds?

The metal thingamajig IS a buffer. A mechanical one, inspired, I have read, by the one Ruger devised for the Ranch Rifle. Should be all you need, let the spring work for its full travel.

I usually field strip and clean with the scope still on. A PSO 1 4x though, plenty of clearance. Lovely photos, you captured the depth and distance, seems like I could walk right into your place.

Not unusual for mounts, rings and rail clamps to get loose during the first shots after installation. Gets me everytime.

Ah, nothing like photos of weapons with the personal touch. Mine's staying stock but I like to look. TonyRumore: there are people that can help you.

http://www.freedomoptics.com/Comersus/stor...ynamicIndex.asp http://www.eastwave.ca/ http://posp.ru/index.html http://www.kalinkaoptics.com/ http://tantal.kalashnikov.guns.ru/ Browse around these places. You may want to consider a lower magnification for a designated marksman type rifle. I like more field of view and wound up with a PSO 1 4x. Cheap and works well enough.

Once saw a photo of a Russian unit patrolling in a Chechan forest. The man with the Drag had the scope off, just one more rifleman ready with 10 rounds of semi-auto full charge thirty. Another was a short vid clip, Chechans here and one of them HAD a Saiga. Always seemed to me a Saiga is a hunter that can live rough and do other things.

Thanks for the range report. The 22 inch notskinny barrel does seem to settle back on target nicely without a brake. Where does your mount put the scope? Over bore? To the letf a bit?

Good report, thanks. Do you happen to remember about how far your rifle was throwing the spent brass?

"I think I can fix this by adding just a tiny bit of material to the receiver floor..." I have never replaced the trigger on my Saiga 308 but I ran into an issue with the G2 in a Romanian SAR 1 that others had also. It may touch on this problem. The G2 trigger could not move forward enough to fully reset, there was interference at the forward end of the receiver trigger cut-out. I did not want to alter the SAR 1 receiver so I removed some metal from the forward part of the G2 trigger where it was hitting the receiver. It now resets fine with plenty of engagement (creep).

You have got to carry both of those, you just have to.

Greetings All. May the Great Spirit smile on this electric tribe. You may want to try a magazine full of factory rounds before you cut anything. Just to cover the basic bases.