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Bad Bob

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About Bad Bob

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  • Birthday 01/01/2008

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    An ex-Red State, in a formerly freedom loving country...
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    WECSOG (FALs, AKs, ARs, and a Saiga, so far ;>), reloading (it's amazing what you can do, when you load 'em yourself!), and politics (defend your constitutional rights, or lose them). Hoping to live long enough to retire...
  1. That's what I used on my conversions and builds. When baked the paint becomes a lot more durable. The 1200 degree paint (http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductDetail.cfm?ProductId=2063) is a lot (ten times?) more durable than the 500 degree paint, in my experience. And I have tried both, and do bake my parts in a parts oven. Link provided for information purposes only (I buy the paint at local auto parts stores)...
  2. One thing to keep in mind, if you have vision problems (& I have uncorrected astigmatism) the red dot might not look like a dot - more like a cluster of grapes. Some folks blame it on the scope, get pissed off, & return it. In my case, the image is different for my left eye than it is for my right (something most folks never try); neither one is a dot, but the shape of the 'cluster' is different, so I know it's my eyes, and not the red dot scope I bought to try out on a 9mm AR. No noticeable problem with standard rifle scopes, or iron sights. Just a word of warning...
  3. There are several different types of Duplicolor paint. In my experience (as always, YMMV ;>), the 500 degree low-gloss black is a pretty close color & finish match to the factory Izmash paint - but it is NOT a durable finish. When I was building FALs, I used the 1200 degree (IIRC) Duplicolor ceramic paint, and got absolutely excellent durability, but it requires baking in a parts oven (no big deal, you can build your own with stove pipe & a heat gun ;>). And at times, it would come out of the oven with a very slight purple tint to it, which pissed off some FAL builders, but ne
  4. I had the same thought last night about the 35 rounders. I think wobble could be reduced by adding a little bit of material toward the front in the top half-inch or so. And very little wobble has to be done away with to make them fully reliable, judging by the Orlites, and by the one steel mag that I can't induce a malfunction in by trying. By the way, how is feeding in your 50 rounders? Do they normally work reliably? Rather than make modifications to each & every mag, why not look at the receiver? Most Saiga receivers come without the 'dimples,' which are there to limit side-
  5. And the headspace doesn't even have to be off, to have problems. My second AK kit build (using a 'name brand' US-made receiver & FCG) doubled the first time I test fired it - the bolt was riding a bit too high to reliably cock the hammer, with the aftermarket FCG & receiver (i.e., receiver rails). Cascading tolerances (part A is a little out of spec, and part B is a little out of spec, and part C is a little out of spec - suddenly, you're getting 'unanticipated consequences'). That's why I ALWAYS recommend a Saiga conversion to anyone who wants an AK - the receiver, and bolt, and bo
  6. I always assumed the Orlite Galil mags had wire mesh in the feed lips, because the Orlite AR mags had it...
  7. I bought two of the steel 12 round Galil mags to use as range mags, and they wouldn't work for me, either - until I filed a little steel off the inside (bottom) of the feed lips. If you look at the things, you realize you could pound nails with the feed lips, they are so dang thick. I filed a little steel off the inside (bottom) to let the cartridges rise just a little higher, and I was good to go. Both feed 100% now. I had to do a relief cut in the back of the mag (just filed a round notch with a chain saw file) to allow the flat file to get in under the feed lips, but neither modificatio
  8. Also consider the cases - reloadable brass cases can add value, even if you don't reload right now (reloading is a cookbook exercise - for anyone who doesn't reload now, don't let it scare you). And you can always sell the once-fired cases, if you decide not to reload. For those reasons, I would recommend something with Boxer primed brass cases (unless the steel-cased throw-away stuff gets stupidly cheap, like it used to be). For a baseline cost, just check Walmart (they've got commercial .223 back on the shelves in my area). Here's a link that might be helpful: http://www.ar15.com/
  9. The Magpul PMag followers fit the Galil Orlites WITHOUT MODIFICATION. You can get them from Magpul - go to their web site, pull up the 2008 catalog, and go one page past the PMags - they have a PMag parts kit (follower, floor plate, etc.) for $5.95 (IIRC). I still have not had a chance to range test that setup, though (I've been so busy with work I haven't been shooting in over a year - God, how did THAT happen? I never meant to become a slave to my job!). Magpul has an 'EMag' (export mag) now, that looks a lot like the Galil Orlite, so maybe it's not an accident the PMag follower fits...
  10. Anyone ever tried one of these? http://www.tech-sights.com/ak.htm Looks like it might lock up tighter than a standard action cover sight...
  11. Bingo. Please try your rifle without a brake. For many folks, recoil/muzzle rise on a 5.56 is no big deal. Really. Also please keep in mind that many brakes will damage your hearing (by directing the propellant gasses back at you - which is how they work), if you are not wearing suitable hearing protection. I think I have spent more $ on quality muzzle brakes (including multiple JP Enterprises brakes - still the best, in my opinion ;>), on rifles in multiple calibers, than most shooters. And I no longer use them - with the exception of my Saiga. I currently have a cheap DPMS AR br
  12. Anyone please correct me if I'm wrong (I haven't had any sleep in two days), but I think the Saigas are chambered for 5.56, but marked "223" for political puposes. Once again, please correct me if I'm wrong on this... (FWIW, my Saiga digests 5.56 NATO w/o any problems whatsoever... )
  13. I would guess, NO. I can't even insert my factory Saiga mag with my "bullet guide" in place. Other experienced input requested here, quite obviously... I would guess, YES, if you install a "bullet guide" for the Galil mags. Experienced input once again requested here, even more obviously (I've never cut my .223's mag well for an adapter)...
  14. I've read (someone please correct me if I'm wrong) that the military went with 1 in 7 twist barrels, to stabilize the new 62 grain FMJ load & the equivalent tracers (which are relatively long for their weight) in cold weather - not 75 to 77 grain match bullets. Doesn't matter to me: I've tried just about everything in my Savage Model 10 (1 in 9 twist, IIRC) and it prefers (for some reason I can not fathom) Federal 50 grain HPs. Just goes to show you, expectations do not always match reality (another example - "How's that 'Hope & Change' working out for ya?" ;>). My Saiga gets 55
  15. The bottom line is this: would you rather have an AK with the critical components (barrel, bolt, receiver, etc.) manufactured, assembled & tested at IZHMASH (an established Russian AK factory)? Or an AK made of miscellaneous used parts unpacked, assembled & (presumably) tested at Century (whose workers have been referred to as "angry beavers" at the FAL Files forum)? Your choice...
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