saiga12-er

They were supposedly going to stop importing them in May of (I believe 2011) or it may have been May 2012. But anyway, point is - I think you were getting outdated info.

I was beginning shooting a .22 Rifle under Fathers supervision at age of 5. Dad was a Korean and WWII Vet. Although I never recall my Dad EVER talk about the wars he fought in, but he wanted my brother and I to know how to shoot responsibly at an early age. When I was around 8 (brother was 4 years older) I recall dad having a couple .22's and a 12 gauge in the closet at home. He did hide the ammo, but I could had got the guns out when he was at work but never did. I think one reason was because he taught us at an early age. So it was kind of a "been here - done that" thing, so I was never temp

In the research/planning stage on moving the FCG forward and would like advice on the best brand of FCG conversion parts. First off I read the "Sticky" on conversion and read some previous post. Considering some post were up to a few years old and my plan may or may not be slightly different than what some would do, I thought a new post would (Hopefully) best answer my questions. First off, of course I am talking about a S-12. I currently have a Phoenix Kick-lite recoil reduction stock with pistol grip and would like to keep the same stock if possible. Of course I have to remove the pi

The stock does have a pistol grip, but I thought there was a legal fine line on what pistol-grip stock configuration caused possible issues. For example and assuming I read and understood this correctly, I thought a pistol grip had to be directly underneath the receiver to be of any legal concern. The Phoenix Kicklite stock I added does have a pistol grip, but it (pistol grip) is behind the end of the receiver. As far as parts, someone told me the MD-20 drum actually counted as more than one U.S. made part as they were counting some of the internal parts. However, I don't buy that one...

The stock does have a pistol grip, but I thought there was a legal fine line on what pistol-grip stock configuration caused possible issues. For example and assuming I read and understood this correctly, I thought a pistol grip had to be directly underneath the receiver to be of any legal concern. The Phoenix Kicklite stock I added does have a pistol grip, but it (pistol grip) is behind the end of the receiver. As far as parts, someone told me the MD-20 drum actually counted as more than one U.S. made part as they were counting some of the internal parts. However, I don't buy that one...

I read in this thread a lot of people actually use WD40 to clean the fouling. Another person had luck with Hoppes #9 as well.http://www.shotgunwo...hp?f=2&t=276938 Thoughts? Industrial Chemicals are one thing I do know pretty well and WD-40 has NO place with firearms. I have seen it gum up many actions. Even though you are talking plastic fouling in the barrel I suggest stay away from it. It is simply not worth it by any measure and all it is truly intended for is water displacement (hence WD) and the 40 represents the 40th attempt until they were satisfied with their formul

In spite of reviewing the 922-r compliance worksheet and reading other related articles, a couple people have conclusions that do not seem correct on what I need to do to make my Saiga 12 922-R compliant. So, hopefully someone who is 100% certain will tell me what parts I still have the option of changing to be compliant without doing a conversion. My Saiga 12 (as mentioned is unconverted) is newly bought with a few changes I did recently. The parts I changed are as follows: SGM Tactical muzzle brake "Saber Boss" Kicklite 6 position tactical stock MD-20 drum mag Auto-Plug (

No offence but it sounds like an operator error issue. It can be easy to snag a bit on an angled drilling surface such as this. Use cutting fluid or oil when drilling. Do not drill it dry, and avoid flexing the bit. If you feel you need to flex the bit so you can get a good taper on your holes, only flex the bit slightly and only after you have made the initial re-drilling of all ports.

Don't be deceived by the paper clip test. I did the very same thing and then went on to looking at other possible causes to no avail. Then I finally gave in and removed the gas block. Geesh, what a mess. Sure all four ports were open, and although each was large enough to accommodate a paper clip, they were all different sizes and not a cleanly drilled hole. And not to mention a paper clip is smaller than what your holes should be anyway. I re-drilled them to 5/64th and gas pressure is no longer an issue. Until you can actually clearly see the ports you do not know if they are okay or not.

Sounds to me your short on Gas still, and I am not sure what odd rotation you have to be in for your shotgun to cycle, but I would not consider it normal until your gun can cycle not in a odd rotation. The Bottom Line is if your gun will not work with the autoplug you dont have enough gas, to cycle the ammo choice you have selected. 2nd if you have to put your plug in some odd rotation, to get it to cycle it does not sound like you have enough gas to cycle the ammo choice you have selected normally. When you have to tweak your stock plug to cycle, your are under gassed, By how much is not kno

The threads feel perfect. I just looked at the Federal website and I am wrong (perfect example of why to not assume) on the power being the same. The Target Load is 2.72 DRAM and the Game Load is 3.25 DRAM. Unfortunately I do not know anyone in my area that has a V-plug (or comparable) that I could try. I am not rich by any means, but spending $25.00 on a V-Plug or similar (even though it may not deliver the results I am looking for) is not much a concern to me.

I had previously polished (by use of a Dremel) the bolt to where it looked almost as good as Pauley's Glass Bolt pics that are on the forum. In addition I polished everything I could that is a moving part or is in contact with a moving part that did not require more than a routine field strip. After polishing it was MUCH better in regards to smooth function. Strangely enough, when shooting today it would perfectly shoot/cycle the Wal-Mart Federal Game Load (part # H121 6) I bought 11-2009 which is 2-3/4 1oz #6 bird shot @ 1290fps which is a very low-brass cheap load at about (in 2009) $4.5

Yes, I screwed it all the way in and backed it out to what I referred to as an "odd rotation". Meaning that the lock pin had no de-tent to lock into, but the top edge of the bevel on the stock gas plug (inside gas block area above gas ports) was basically perfectly horizontal over the barrel thereby allowing the least amount of gas restriction from the ports to the piston. BTW, I had previously re-drilled my gas ports (four) to 5/64th's per recommendation from this forum. After doing so and upon test fire I thought the gun may be a bit over-gassed, but I was okay with that as I intended to

I had previously polished (by use of a Dremel) the bolt to where it looked almost as good as Pauley's Glass Bolt pics that are on the forum. In addition I polished everything I could that is a moving part or is in contact with a moving part that did not require more than a routine field strip. After polishing it was MUCH better in regards to smooth function. Strangely enough, when shooting today it would perfectly shoot/cycle the Wal-Mart Federal Game Load (part # H121 6) I bought 11-2009 which is 2-3/4 1oz #6 bird shot @ 1290fps which is a very low-brass cheap load at about (in 2009) $4.5

I recently ordered an Auto Plug from the forum's e-store and tried it out today. The test firing and overall results were not as I had expected. With the stock gas plug I was able to shoot cheap low brass ammo no problem after touching up the gas ports, but wanted the Auto Plug as convenience to be able to go from low to high brass without the need to change the settings on the stock or other after market gas plugs. Shooting today (first time) with the Auto Plug, I could not shoot many low brass without FTE. The best I got was 4 in a row with the stock mag. And yes, I know how to adjus