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Everything posted by DresNightfire

  1. Anyone get their drum to work with their flared competition magwell? I tried mine last night and it didn't lock in. I may revert mine back to factory to make sure it's just the magwell that's not letting the drum seat completely.
  2. I apologize for the delay of 6 months in posting this, but here's my buddy's VEPR 12 SBS (chop and thread done by Radical Firearms):
  3. I've been running low brass with no problems (of course I did swap the trigger because the factory one was unreliable for me and I also polished the bolt face and the hammer), just stay within these ammo specs: http://doitdarith.com/temp/vepr12/wolfammo12gaugevepr12.html
  4. Is the ETA still late September/early October? I feel like a little kid during Christmas...
  5. This has been covered before but use the small punch tool that came with your VEPR 12 or a punch to knock-screw it in at angle. Another alternative is that they make a screwdriver with a coil bendable neck that accepts different bits.
  6. I've actually been running the Saiga 12 recoil spring in my VEPR 12 since it's lighter with success. I would love to have a spare operating rod for parts in case anything ever happens though.
  7. You must learn to use this functionality especially for range shooting, clay shooting, trap/skeet. It's the rule that you must have your action-open when carrying your firearm as a safety precaution for range officers and employees to verify and affirm safety rules or else you will be asked to check your action. The Saiga 12 has the same BHO function available, but the Saiga 12's BHO button is located where the bolt-release button is on the VEPR 12.
  8. Can you provide a link of the reports on the op-rod breaking? Good thing I have a lifetime warranty on mine and the other one I got for my buddy...
  9. The Molot GK-01 version is a real winner. What's the length on the GK-01 perm'd barrel including the muzzle brake?
  10. Do not touch the mag. You will need to only remove the extended mag release, file it down (it's easier just to run it back and forth on the file itself than to run the file over it) to match the length of the factory mag release tab (do not over file it), and then re-install the mag release.
  11. Good news is that it's waaaay easier to install the original mag catch release tab when compared to the extended. I do miss the feeling of the original tab mag release though because you can grab it as you release with the same hand. And yes, extended is good for competition use, BUT after much practice with the extended you will get use to mag changes with it. I would keep it and practice with it for a month. If you don't like it, you can easily swap it out with the original one. Don't waste your time sending it back, your baby is already in your hands. I'm actually in Houston, TX (height
  12. FYI before the saiga 12 hype and the Red Jacket show, my buddy picked up his unconverted Saiga 12 for no more than $400.
  13. The conversion is a fun trip, but the gas reliability was a different trip I wished I had a veteran prepare me for. As long as you have a dremel tool with polishing kit to evenly polish up the hammer face and contact points of the bolt carrier, it will help you towards reliability (reducing drag/friction) tremendously. You can also polish the side rails within the receiver as well. I highly recommend taking notes from close up details of professionally converted S12's before removing any material (feed ramp) or widening the gas ports. The feed ramp tutorial in the polishing thread removes more
  14. Obviously, this spam user needs to be banned.
  15. I wrote this and forgot to hit 'Post' last Friday: That's interesting because I always thought that would be a resolution as well, BUT Molot purposely designed the first rivet to be longer than the others to minimize cycling failures in the long run. We highly recommend only polishing the first long rivet. Here are pics of when I suspected the rivet was the cause of adding friction to the bolt carrier (because my Saiga 12 didn't have it, then why in the hell would the VEPR 12 have it, right?... but we have confirmed with Papa Zorro (VEPR 12 expert from Russia who had a Molot make him a cus
  16. I'm not sure if you can confirm, but are they the 10-rounders that are modified by Molot Arms (these are the only ones available for the US at the moment) or original Molot? You can visually see the difference as the Molot Arms version has coated and bonded two mags together.
  17. Id run it with some full power loads and then just give it a bit of time. It should smooth out with some use. If this doesnt help, then it may be time to polish the internal contact areas and go from there. I don't mind a little polishing, I'm just hoping I don't have to redrill the ports. Have there been any reports of issues with the gas ports being undersized? Not that I'm aware of. If anything, it should be over gassed. Redrilling ports is not a common necessity for the VEPR 12 to run lower power loads (unlike the Saiga 12 I use to own). Even if you take a look at Jim Fuller's
  18. Obviously a non-pistol grip shotgun is very dangerous as well, but they are leaving out important details like ammo types/loads (ex. birdshot vs rifled slug), so it's not going to stick. This law may possibly hold for states like Cali, but definitely not for states like Texas... It does say 'Hunting Rifle' on the VEPR 12 box for a reason... Here's something interesting from a fellow VEPR 12 owner in Russia, citizens over there have to wait at least 3 years to own an AR15. Please take a look at the date for that article, it's nearly 3 years old...
  19. Very true. That's very important as well and it should be priority number one. I apologize for leaving that out. Please use the factory magazine during first use as 3rd party magazines may require possible fitment modifications to the magazine itself.
  20. Important: VEPR 12's prefer 1290 fps or higher with stock internal components. Follow these steps to get your stock VEPR 12 to cycle lower powered 12 gauge ammo: 1. Ensure no optics are located directly above or in front of the ejection port. Optics should sit behind the ejection port. (this caused mine to have FTE's and to pop open the dust cover). 2. Ensure stock is positioned firmly against body when shooting (lean forward) to ensure there is no loss of energy for bolt cycling. 3. Remove and wipe off any factory cosmoline/grease, and polish the bolt carrier and trigger contact points
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