DresNightfire
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Posts posted by DresNightfire
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The mags are the cats ass.
Thanks for sharing that.Plus free shipping, you really can't beat that!
I'm suprised that the izzy 8 rounders cost more than the molot 8 rounders...
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Do you have a link to that 10rd Molot mags?
Yes please, could we have a link to the Legion Vepr 12 mags? Thanks!
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budsgunshop.com just listed some vepr 12's at 1199 the pic does not show a folding stock but its generic also says it comes with 2 mags.
Description reads:
• Molot Black laminate buttstock
No bueno to me.
In other news today...
Legion has 10rd Molot mags for sale. And the best price I have seen on the factory Molot brake.
Still a bueno, with your option to:
1) Use a bonesteel AR or Galil style folder
or
2) Cut the tang, put in the CSS receiver block, with an ACE folding adapter with your choice of stock
Majority of Russian IPSC guys have been all converting to AR stocks...
A number of us were correct about the gun being shipped with TWO mags, NOT one.
Thanks for the heads up, just placed an order for two 10-rounders!
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Hi
I am on on 0:57-0:59 with Saiga-12.
Not affilitated with this program though, they just get videos from our Youtube pages.
http://www.youtube.com/user/EWiZaRD12/Videos
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheUser412/Videos
You can try auto translations by Youtube (select Captions, Russian, Translate Captions).
It's a pleasure to have you on board, EWiZaRD.Welcome!
You have a very nice Saiga 12. Can you provide any details on it? (trigger group, polishing, puck, recoil spring, reliability mods, etc). I really enjoyed your videos, especially watching the snow man head-shot videos, By the way, you shoot very well. The woman in the video seems like a very good competitor too. If you don't mind I would like to include a collection of videos here, including yours. Please let me know if you are fine with that or not.For those here who can't see videos after clicking the links EWiZaRD provided, just click on the 'Videos' tab to show the videos.
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Is it possible to store a few backup shells of ammo in the tube?
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^^^ I think they rub the front rivet regardless of optic or not. Mine does.
I think so too... mine does as well. I also remember hearing Papa Z say it was designed like that for a reason. I think it was to help with the alignment of the piston/bolt carrier which helps prevent bc breakage. I can't remember exactly. I wish someone "in the know" would help explain the reason for the larger front rivit a little better.
Correct, the rivet was purposely created there to allowed better alignment of the bolt carrier during cycling, adding more reliability and minimizing the chances of the bolt breaking (in addition to the bolt rails are there). Rubbing is normal, but with the optic on it rubs even more (causes even more friction, i.e. slowing the carrier rate of cycle).
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The optic position above the ejection port or in front of it during ejection causes the bolt carrier to rub the first rivet of the dust cover, slowing down the speed of the bolt carrier, hence not providing enough power to eject the shell casing. The optic obstructing the shell casing was not the case in the past.
Sturmghewehre also talks about this in his Youtube description VEPR 12 video:
...
More info on the malfunctions with a sight set forward:
Due to the overwhelming number of comments regarding the EOTech failures, I wanted to give you more info about the testing I did.
What I can say is that I know for certain the malfunctions have absolutely nothing to do with the EOTech specifically. The malfunctions will happen with Aimpoint Pro's, Comp M2, M3's, and even a Sparc mounted with a metal riser mount. These malfunctions were confirmed by the importer and several owners have contacted me saying they have noticed the same issue.
Inside the top cover there is a rivet that holds the rail in place. One rivet in the front, over the bolt carrier, and one in the rear. The one in the front sticks down 1/8th of an inch or so while the rear rivet is recessed. The front rivet contacts the bolt carrier during firing, you can clearly see the marks on it. The carrier jumps upwards upon firing and hits the top cover. As evidence of this, my shotgun will eventually pop the top cover open if I fire enough rounds through it due to the carrier hitting the top cover. It usually takes 5-6 rounds.
The importer noticed this rivet and removed some material from it and their shotgun worked with an EOTech in that position. I removed some material from my rivet but I still have the issue. I didn't want to remove too much material. As long as you mount the sight to the rear, every sight I mounted worked just fine without causing any malfunctions. -
That other piece is the overtravel limiter.
You can mill the right side of the Tapco disconnector down and make it work, or just go with the stock Tapco.
If you try to re-use it, fit it properly so everything moves freely, and you have decent disconnector engagement, because the tip of Tapco disconnectors will eventually wear down a touch after several thousand rounds of powerful ammo, and if it's not good engagement to begin with, when it wears down, eventually the hammer will not be caught and will follow the carrier, bolt, and FP back up into battery..... Not. Good. and I've seen some who really should know better screw up on that aspect.
That being said, in the V-12, you really need to profile the Tapco Hammer down to .0555" when measured perpendicular to the hammer face with calipers over the "O" in the word Tapco, which is molded onto the side of the hammer.
(I didn't touch on the bump, or axis length, as those aspects should, by now be common knowledge, but just for shits & grins... No front bump, and hammer axis at 1.01" for accommodation of the V-12's LRBHO)
God bless, & good luck.
Pauly
appreciate the info, got the FCG and hammer pulled. The hammer looks like it was beat out of a piece of slag with an icepick, wow, never seen a crappier one
Yeah, I had a few instances where my factory trigger wasn't functioning during clay shoots, very embarrassing. After I threw in the g2, zero failures to date.
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Loving the close-ups...
(in need of translated subtitles bad...)
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so any tips how to remove the retainer plate that holds the trigger.hammer pins ?
or better yet a youtube vid of it lol
take a pocket knife to pry it open just a hair and then use bent needle nose long pliers to grab it from above (wiggle and pull upwards and backwards). It's very easy. I was able to swap out my trigger group inside of my car in 15 minutes. like these:
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Is the back rail planned for a later date?
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I think I would grind off most or all ot the rail on the bottom
they might be a bit rough to hold on to.I recommend using rail cover. You never know when you will want to add a foregrip/AFG, flashlight bipod, flashlight foregrip, or bipod (for use with rifled slugs with a rifled VEPR 12 barrel) in the future.
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If you don't chop it yourself, it's best to communicate with the gunsmith as they can ensure the cycling is correct on their end by opening up the gas ports more as needed (without having you to do all the leg work for cycling). You should go ahead and submit the SBS form with your money order ASAP only because you will be without your VEPR 12 for the entire duration of the application process until the SBS form has been approved. There's plenty of time in between to do research and communicated with gunsmiths that can do the job for you unless you enjoy doing it yourself. I highly recommend having a professional performing the gas work AFTER performing friction minimization issues (polishing carrier, polishing trigger hammer, swapping springs) on your end.
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Everything I know, I learned from PapaZorro...
He said it in a thread buried somewhere, and this is a vid from his own channel...
I miss that guy here... a wealth of great information.
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Put the original factory hammer spring in your trigger group right now! The JTE hammer spring is your problem, giving you light primer strikes. You should have included this detail in your FIRST post. We are trying to help you out here! Now go back and test it out with the same ammo. Report back with the results ASAP!
BTW, You are using the term of FTF as failure to feed, correct?
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Im shooting clay with my vepr 12 every time I go out; sporting purpose? It's got it.
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Not all saiga 12's will need an aftermarket gas regulator (while it may make it look cooler as well). If it was already running Wally World bulk then stick to the stock regulator. Your kick lite stock is the culprit, robbing bolt cycling energy (requiring more gas in your system), so I would stay away from that stock. Since you aren't shooting too much 3 inch shells or buckshot, this will be a good decision.
If you are dead set on using the auto plug, first tune it with the regular stock on it. Always remember to should your weapon firmly for proper cycling.
If you are dead set on using the auto plug and kick light permanently in conjunction with each other, follow the step above and then put the kick lite on and allow more gas from the auto plug into the system a quarter turn at a time. Bring the flat head with you to the testing range.
I highly do not recommend any recoil reduction system with the saiga 12 as it will require more gas in your system. Just use a buttpad on another stock.
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GLENNJASON,
TRY THE ENIDINE SHOT STOCK (GOOGLE) A HYDRAULIC BUFFER THAT REPLACES THE BUFFER TUBE IN AN M4-TYPE STOCK.
IT WILL, OF COURSE, REQUIRE YOU TO REPLACE THE STOCK WITH AN M4 TYPE (GOOGLE ACE GUNSTOCKS).
I HAVE ONE ON MY S-12 AND CAN PECK OUT 3 ROUNDS OF 3" MAGNUM 00BUCK IN JUST OVER A SECOND (AND STAY ON A SILHOUETTE TARGET AT 15YDS), USING AN AGGRESSIVE STANCE.
I ALSO HAVE A VENTILATED POLY-CHOKE ON IT AS A MUZZLE BRAKE, AND THE BLOODY THING WEIGHS ABOUT 12LBS, WHAT WITH TRI-RAIL, LIGHT, LASER, VERTICAL GRIP, SIDE MOUNT AND OPTIC, AND FOLDING M4 STOCK WITH ENIDINE.
BUT EVEN AT 12(+?)LBS, I COULDNT SHOOT IT THAT FAST AND ACCURATELY BEFORE THE ENIDINE.
JESS1344
Yes, the endine should help you out on recoil. If you want even more recoil absorbtion, combine it with the fab defense mako GL shock stock.
IMPORTANT: Please note that this may cause a cycling reliability issue with light loads.
Heavier recoil springs are NOT made, only factory springs and lighter springs for lighter loads are available. The puck that comes from the factory is already considered the correct puck for heavy loads. There are smaller pucks for lighter loads along with a lighter spring.
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Zero problems running SGM mags in my 030. Maybe you guys could replace the lrbho lever with after market or 030 lever? Lets seem some pics, what are the differences
It's not the LRBHO lever, it's that the sgm mags follower sits lower it the mag because of the large plastic feed lips. Insert your empty factory mag on a closed bolt and rack the bolt back and let the bolt stay back from the LRBHO and then remove the mag. Now insert a SGM and you will see that the LRBHO lever will not be touching the SGM follower. Even after bending my friends lever down it still does not touch the sgm follower when this test is done.
If you experience this, you should send it in for a replacement. The SGM mags work with LRBHO.
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The two I ordered from MolotUSA had rear lugs that were shorter (more material removed) than the other four Molot V12 mags I have. Not a problem, just interesting.
Not a problem as in...they lock in, and feed shells as well as the others?
can u post a comparison?
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Woohoo, they came in yesterday.
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I just fitted mine with a light...
First I had modded my forward handguard to have rails like the molot russian version, using magpul rail sections. Then I got a low-pro e series light mount and put a lumapower single 123 light in it...
Check out the pic thread for what my handguard looks like and then low pro's website for the e-series mount... if you are interested in more details after that, I will get some pictures of the final product posted.
I am very finicky about my light setups, I like everything low drag....
pics plz!
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So far so good. I have not shot it yet.
Front screw head is bigger than the other two, not as big as the factory one. The gentlemen who installed it used the factory pin, not the roll pin that comes from CSS. I am glad that worked out. The factory pin is solid and heavy duty, IMO.
The CSS may have a larger ID where that pin goes because the cover moves more freely, rather liked it stiffer where it stuck in place when opening. Not sure what can be done about that if anything.
He mentioned one screw oddly protruded from the rail, so he cut it off and hit it with a blackening agent.
Right after taking these pics I put on my eotech, I will run it this weekend. Seems solid.
Someone mentioned using a JTE guide rod with this cover, I can't remember the exact reason for that - speak up if you do. I have a JTE rod here that i have for a S-12 project but may use it with the Vepr if need be. I had the barrel cut down so if there are any cycling issues I will go through the whole system to make it more efficent and hopefully run bulk pack again and that may include the JTE rod.
Questions? What should I be looking for in the CSS rail?
1) Can you take a picture directly from behind to see if there is any cant? (use a high aperture if you have a DSLR to avoid too much depth of field)
2) Can you take a picture of the spacing between the front screw head and the top of the bolt carrier?
3) When racking the bolt carrier, is it making any physical contact with the front screw head? (view directly from the right side)
4) Wipe the bolt carrier down, rack the bolt 4-5 times. Open the top cover, do you see any signs of contact/rubbing between the bolt carrier and the front screw head?
5) When shooting, place an optic at the very front of the rail or in front of the ejection port; are there any FTE's?
6) Wipe the bolt clean. After shooting, do you see any signs of bolt carier contact with the front screw head?
BTW That top alumnium rail looks sexy. Great job to the guys who worked on her. Yours is a one of a kind here in the U.S.
Miscellaneous Question: Did they weld on a rail or replace the factory with the railed version of the front gas block sight?
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They may get this right this time around, but the only thing with mine was that the internal screw head was a bit large. The easy fix was to spin it with a power drill on a file to trim down the diameter of the head, and it fit into the screw slot like a charm.
Is there a Factory Molot 10 Round Magazine for the Vepr-12
in Vepr-12
Posted
holy 5 benjamins for 4 mags batman, you should be set now. i just picked up a couple as well.