Dracozny

you will appreciate the field of view with that 50MM objective. Your only real limitation is in short distances

yet for some reason there is something off about it, or Red Star Arms version is completely off. I hand to completely redesign that thing.

looks like the TM based on the pics. Welcome to the club!

Correct. The brass also tends to fly in random directions usually to another zip code. Although I did have one fly straight up in the air and land right next to me when shooting from a bench.

40-50mm Objectives typically require at least a medium height ring.

Time money etc.. We did go shooting on some BLM lands back in August. Nothing too impressive on my end however. Played around with some of that Plastic shelled PPC ammo. My room mate got some decent groups out of his savage with it, I saw no difference in accuracy in my super compared to any of the other factory ammo. I'm actually disappointed by that. Still the best grouping I get is with cheap Armscor 147gr FMJ.

it is non standard, don't know why they chose it, I even thought about making my own screw but the die for that size was $300. a few people have re-tapped it to a standard size.

I plan on doing things like this, but I am still in the process of tooling up. it's a spendy venture.

They are all different in some way or another, especially when you throw in the slant back vs square back, and the Super, Pioneer and, Hunter models are all completely different.

can be done, has been done, it's not exactly pretty but works. check the 54r threads, there are a few examples. The receiver is not too terribly different on the back end when it comes to the stock.

Save yourself the hassle, Don't order anything from BHA. It is a complete miracle if they ship anything to you.

Injection molding does have high upfront costs. It's the mold itself. Most injection molds are made of aluminum which has been cnc milled. So if the demand is there sure low prices make sense but until the costs of the mold are accounted for your going to have high prices to compensate.

? was this just a thread bump?

a few charts that cover a number of calibers weights and lengths http://www.montanabulletworks.com/page11.html .308 Veprs are roughly a 1:12 twist rate

every rifle will be a bit different but I had great results with Armscor 147gr FMJ in my Super.

I searched several times to avoid double posting. still don't see it. sorry.

I came across this article on Facebook. Thought you all might find it interesting. It does use AR's for testing. 10,000 rounds fired through 4 identical AR's to figure out what kind of wear and costs are inherent with each type of ammunition. Note: I am not posting this for flaming trolling or any other sort of Internet shenanigans. http://www.luckygunner.com/labs/brass-vs-steel-cased-ammo/

love the net! might I suggest some rattle can spray paint to tidy up those impacts for future long distance shots?

well the only other variable is consistency in factory loads. the bipod is definitely going to be a factor on its own. on the bags I was getting consistent tighter than 2 MOA with the 5 round groups the sub MOA group I suppose could have been a fluke, but again rate of fire and load consistency will always be a factor. I want to see where things will be on a cooler day with and without the bipod. and then later this year or next year I will start getting into custom loads, hopefully the costs of supplies will have become reasonable by then. fancy will be when I can get my custom stock made. (t

went to the range, friggin hot today! to the point of after the first shot I had a mirage in my scope from the barrel. way too many factors going on temperature added bipod scope remounted to allow the locking lever on the left side. my own bad judgement kids that were unhappy(got a playground out there but 4 yr old son was just not having it) the result was after 40 rounds due to winging it on remounting the scope.... I managed to get a roughly 2 moa target. I didn't bother measuring it just approximated based on the rings.

after reading the forum that is named after our rifles and looking at photos I did the change of moving the lever over to the left side where the lever is pointing toward the shooter. it did make sense to me but with fiddling with mine I had to move my scope rings back one notch, amazingly it cleared the scope, the down side is to get it to lock down and not have the whole thing wiggle I have to press the lever all the way down until it hits the top cover. it shouldn't jiggle lose though. although I fear I may have changed too many variables at once for my planned trip to the range tomorrow..

its a bit of a toss up really. on my super its a full length stock but there is still some question as to whether or not the bipod mounted up front will cause accuracy issues. mounting it on the front of the receiver (although it will never site correctly like an SVD/PSL, look at the way the receivers are milled or in case of PSL stamped in that area) brings in other factors about stability. generally you lose accuracy on any rifle when you put the bipod that close since you now have shrunk your base. on the plus side your able to move to the next target faster. best suggestion grab a sand bag

well as you know I already have rubber inlaid in there as a temporary measure, I'm just not confident in myself to bed the stock just yet. and alternatively I am still curious as to how performance will act if it were truly free floated all the way as well. I am actually on my way to hit the range now, so we shall see what all these mods end up with. hell if the scores are good enough I might actually post them over at the snipers hide to give them what for. Gotta knock those AR's down a peg, lol. Edit: well unforeseen circumstances postponed any target practice at my range. wound up doing

Ok, well I canned the idea of having the Bipod near the receiver. so we moved it toward the end. I wanted to use the same location for the sling swivel. which proved to be a tad challenging. the screw is an M5x0.5. which has hardly any options. so I made a washer to fit the Magpul Rail and still allows the stock screw to hold the gas block. then I had to drill and rout out a spot for the second screw, which I used the screw that came with the Magpul Picatany rail, had to go get a wood t-nut that fit that screw, but I needed to rout the stock inside the barrel channel so it would sit flush. lac

3 shot groups only tell you so much about whats going on. I usually let the barrel cool for anywhere from 20 - 40 seconds, at most about a minute. considering the thickness of the barrel it should be plenty of time. a 5 shot group will give you better statistics about your shot placement and performance of the rifle. as far as the Hornady, crap man rounds are expensive and to top it off Hornady has ceased production on just about all of their most popular rounds like all 7mm. and just about everything .308. if you search around snipershide you can find a huge list of everything they stopped pr