hughes35e

Saiga rifles are like Russian women, you can't tell,if you got a nice girl who'll take care of you and have borscht and vodka waiting for you when you get home or a crazy psycho who will break your heart, just by looking at her. Saiga rifles are like Russian women, you can't tell,if you got a nice girl who'll take care of you and have borscht and vodka waiting for you when you get home or a crazy psycho who will break your heart, just by looking at her.

Went shooting this weekend with my 21.5" .308. Not to sound like a wimp or anything, but every time I pull the trigger on that thing, it's like a punch in the mouth. I need to do something about that recoil. It's weird but I think my Rem 700 7lb 308s recoil is tamer than my 10lb 308 Saiga. It's still fun to shoot, but getting a brake on it has moved up on my priority list.

I could have sworn I'd uploaded a picture of my .308 before. Anyway, here it is.

This is an old thread, but my .308 Saiga had the exact same problem. I also have a TWS dust cover and a 22" barrel. I found the solution, and it's simple and cheap. On the recoil spring guide rod/cam lock on the original saiga, you'll notice a little aluminum buffer dangling off the bottom. That is there to stop over stroking of the bolt carrier. When you switched to the TWS dogleg, it came with a new guide rod/cam lock without the little buffer. This allows the bolt carrier to fly back and slam into the cam lock at the rear of the receiver, but it's even easier to do when charging the rifle b

Finally got my scope stabilized on my Saiga .308. After running a couple boxes through it, Im happily surprised by the accuracy. My first group was right at 1MOA. After that most groups were close but would usually have a flyer pushing it to 1.5 to 2. I was just over at thehighroad.org reading a thread by a guy deciding between an M1A and a Saiga .308. One guy said he gets 3-4" groups out of his M1A. I think my Saiga .308 would probably shoot sub 4" groups with a baloney sandwich stuffed inside the receiver.

I've got a Nikon P308 in mine. Picked it up for $200 on sale at Cabelas. It's a good, clear scope. The bdc is a little funky though. You have to use an app online to get your distances right.

Uh oh. This looks just easy enough that I'm thinking of doing it. I've threaded barrels before, both on an x39, and a .223. But the .308 I have is a 308-1. On the front of the barrel, and the FSB is a sharp taper. Has anyone threaded a .308 with a tapered muzzle? Or do I have to have it cut and re-crowned to be able to thread it?

I totally get the serious hindrance to an idea like this. It just sucks that Saiga enthusiasts are such a rare breed. 90% of people are AR sheep, while 9 out of the remaining 10 are AK purists who view Saigas as an illegitimate bastard child. That leaves a few thousand people sprinkled across the US. It's a bummer because it'd be fun to have a few beers and tinker on some projects with these guys.

I've run into this quandary a bunch of times lately. I go buy a few tools to do a job, and I use them once. Like ever. Now, here I am again. I want to cut my .308 Saiga barrel down from 22" to 20", reface it, put an 11 degree crown on it, then thread it in 5/8x24. I'm still on the fence about moving the FSB back and repining it. I'll likely never use the iron sights, so why bother. But I'm going to end up dropping like $250 on it, then using it once. After that, it'll sit in my roll away collecting dust. I wish this site had some sort of tool exchange where we could borrow each oth

I bought a sweet multical cleaning kit that breaks down to a little bigger than a can of chew. I also bought a bigger gun safe with more tactical slots. I bought my kid a Nikon p223 scope for his AR, and I bought a sweet Sigtac 4x for my Saiga .223. If you are looking for a good medium range optic for a .223, give the Sigtac a look. I've been very impressed by this scope. Its crisp, has multicolored reticle, or black when power's off. Its solid and cool looking too. Plus it was only $150.

Just curious if anyone knows whether you have to use a bullet guide with the Canis removable one or the permanent conversion?

Thanks. I actually did that, back when I got on the waiting list. But I was a younger man back then, full of piss and vinegar. Things are different now. I'm months older and weaker.

Wow! I thought we were a rare breed. I had no idea there were so many Saiga owners in the NW. I'm in Silverdale, WA. Just curious, how many Saiga/VEPR .223 owners around these parts?

Barack Obama claims to love America But you cannot love that which you seek to fundamentally change.

I'm curious about the weight of the bastard. Bolting a hunk of metal to the bottoms gotta add significant weight.

This is about revision #3 of the same rifle. The dust cover and handguard are from TWS. The stock (which I HATE), is Tapco. Conversion and barrel threading done by me. I still want to do a ton more. I'd like to replace the GB with a Krebs or Bolton gd/fsb combo. I want to replace the Butt stock with an Ace Ultralight. And I'm on the crazy long wait list for a Canis Bastard. I just need to wait till I have money and can time shipping for when wife's at work. On the plus side I made $20 at the range on Sunday from an AR guy in a game of horse. I hit 5 20 Oz coke bottles at 100 yes with 5 bullets

It's an AK. Why do you need to clean the breech a bunch? It's not like it's an AR or something.

Well, I would have saved the money, but I wanted a flat top rifle, so with my TWS dogleg, the two create a single plane across top of the rifle. Right now it's at the smithy getting a Bolton Gas Block, a demon brake, and Dark Earth molyresin put on it. The smith work costed me double because the wife said if the gun gets a spa day, she gets one too. I'll post pics once I get it back.

Well, I was mostly wrong about the TWS Kalashnikov handguard. It actually works. The weapon cycles as it should there isn't a pyroclastic cloud shot back into your face like I thought. I did notice a fine layer of black dust on the lens of my scope. But I can't remember if it did that before or not. I shot it at night and couldn't see any flames coming out of the gas block either. So now for my review: The pros: The rifle feels more balanced and lighter now. I used to have an intrafuze tri-rail on it and the TWS has to be at least 4 oz lighter. I put a Burris scout scope on it and

Hi all. I just bought a TWS Kalashnikov handguard for my Saiga .223. I am really creeped out by the integrated "gas tube" that comes with it. So I removed the sturdy, solid gas tube from the rifle and assembled the handguard. But the physics of the thing boggles my mind. So the gas tube going forward, ends about 1/2" shy of the gas block, and to the rear, about 1/2" shy of the receiver. So you can clearly see the piston pull out of the gas block, and almost pull out of the rear end of the gas tube. So basically, the "gas tube" is more of a piston guide than a full gas tube. Do these th

I know this is an old post, but I just wanted to mention Primary Arms has these in stock for $265.

I have been working on a Saiga .223 since, well, I bought it three years ago. I have a vision for it, but it's a little expensive, so I don't want to have to do any redos. It's a .223 16" bbl with the dimple above the magwell, so I think that means the barrel is .591. I have already done the trigger conversion, and put some cheap Tapco junk on it. As you imagine, it looks just like most of the basic build out there. Now I am departing from common sense a little, because my end goal is accuracy. I am willing to let the rifle be a little heavy (not SVD heavy, but a little heavier than s

hey, mark, that's exactly what I'm looking for. Where can I get a forearm like that? TWS doesn't show them on their website. I also checked one source tactical, CSS, and MAA, I can't find one anywhere...and I MUST have one!

Greetings, all. I just purchased my first Saiga .223 rifle two weeks ago. I have already purchased some items for it, but I made quite a few mistakes in doing so. First, I wish I would have just done the trigger conversion right away. I put a collapsible magpul stock with built in pistol grip and intrafuze tri-rail grip on the front. Now that I am done, the gun feels ridiculously long, the trigger pulls awkwardly, and I can barely reach my grip-pod on the fore-end with it mounted far enough forward to allow magazine clearance. So I basically just threw away $150 and have to redo about ev