dusobox
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Got about 90 rounds thru it... that makes for about 100 rounds for the life of the gun. Had 8 jams in the 90 rounds. Most of the jams were toward the end of the of the 90. Brought it home cleaned it up, and filed a little more toward the top of the bore, not much just sort of a touch up to make sure there where no burrs. Got 200 more rounds going to go out in a couple of weeks... fire 50... clean gas tube... fire 50... clean gas tube... fire 50, and see what's what! Zeroed her in at 25yd with that UTG "CQB" sight & Golden Bear sabot slugs... man was that easy, and a $35 sight... you can
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Just an idiotic question... is the Golden Bear #4BK 3" or 2+3/4"? I've seen some of that 2+3/4" out there floating around.
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I've been studying on the idea myself because I have the 21.5 barrel. Can find the die to re-thread the barrel, but here is the problem I found. Miked the barrel, and it's about 2 or 3 thousandths larger than the threading dies tolerances. Given that I began looking for someone to turn down the barrel, well not a lot of calls out there to turn down a 410 barrel 5 or 6 thou's. I began devising (my hillbilly was coming out) ways to make a block clamp with a hole bored thru it that would hold silicon carbide sandpaper so I could wet sand a few thou of of the barrel to get within the threading
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Found a suitable set of files. Cycled a full mag of golden bear from a sgm mag by hand, and seems to be working. Going to the range tomorrow, and I'll let you know the results.
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The rat tail file I have is for auto work. Probably way to course for the task at hand. Don't really want to use the dremel because it tends to pull in the direction it's rotating, and can go to undesired places REAL quick. I think I'll take a look in the store and see if I can find a suitable tool. Any suggestions? I want to be real clear here, I'm reducing the material where the round is striking, and hanging up, correct? Around 12-2 o'clock if I understand correctly. Is that about right? Here are more pics because I want to get this right.
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ROGER, THAT.
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Right. I know the extractor on the bolt, and a question for later, how do you take the bolt apart... I remember my old M16A2... Now, there is an area on the breech, barrel end,.... where the shell seats... that is reduced back very slightly for that extractor to catch the edge of the shell. that is visible in the photos, and there is no damage to the shells in that area. Above that on the edge of the barrel... say 12 o'clock to 2 o'clock is where it is really crushing and dinging up these cartridges.
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I appreciate it guys. Really, I do. Now I'll get some "...black and white glossy photos with red circles and arrows...[Alice's Restaurant]," on them, and see if you can give me a little more detail as to the exact area in question. Gunsmith I ain't. Now, if you need a manual ladies Omega watch circa 1930's-60's repaired I can help, but I wasn't no armorer just a grunt with a 60. So, that being said, let me get some photos, get back to you, and don't worry about me being heavy handed on that sucker because I have definitely learned to use a light touch working on these microscopic watch
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pics of jam This is with the 4rd. stock mag With a little more time last night, and a lot cooler head I was able to find out that the last 2rd's in the 4rd mag would cycle. To me that seems to indicate that I may need to shave down the follower, and try to get the angle just right. I also noted that where the round sits in the mag on the sgm's is much lower and the notch at the rear of the mag is nowhere near as deep as the Russian mags. Probably putting some wear on the spring in the mag wouldn't hurt either. With all that said it's still a little bizzare to
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Question: is the .410 BHO lever the same as the S12?
dusobox replied to Themajickman's topic in Saiga .410
No they are not the same. 12 has a different BHO. Check Carolina Shooters Supply. Lots of info and great conversion vids there. -
Using only 3in. ammo... the gas piston is installed... weapon does fire, and cycle, just not very well... Golden Bear ammo... not at all.... I see that some folks have already experienced the open bolt loading prob with the tip of the shell catching the barrel extension. That's not a deal breaker. Always pays to test fire before converting one... DOLT! errr... I appreciate all the help if anyone has any ideas bounce them my way. I'll get back to you on a price... let's see... 4, 10rd sgm mags, 1, 30rd promag drum, 1 g2 fcg, 1 jte hammer spring,1 tapco t-6 stock & saw grip
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I'm sorry, but at least I don't feel alone. I have a 410, and it's a raging piece of crap! If they can't fix it maybe we can trade, and I can spend the day staring at your gun with great disappointment and disgust.
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Bought a new Saiga 410 (Legion USA), and did a full conversion. Looks great, and the Fire Control Group conversion was a snap ( thanks to Carolina Shooters Supply), but won't load Golden Bear rounds at all! Tried every mag out there Promag/SGM/Factory... up and to the right... chrushes every shell, and nicks the crap out of the plastic shells it can load! What a POS! Paid over $70 for a 10 round factory mag (K-VAR) (the only mag that would feed plastic rounds because of their length), and it busted after 10 rounds. Can't load any plastic cased ammo in the ProMag/SGM except the most e
