lazlong

I just tried a regular FAL handguard, and it would have to be cut extensively to work. You'd end up not much different from the Saiga sporter version, but with ventilation. It's not worth the trouble, to me.

I just put a standard AK safety selector in mine, and it works mint. The difference is clear. Romanian safety selector on left, S-308 on right:

I don't believe you're gonna find a replacement trigger group that will work without relocating it. I suppose you could get an aftermarket trigger group, cut the actual trigger from it, and weld the extension onto it. I have no desire to try that, but someone else might.

Get yourself a G2 Trigger Group, a U.S. made stock, and a U.S. made pistol grip. Remove the "sporter trigger" from your rifle. Cut the adapter plate off the bottom of your receiver. Look at the original hammer, and cut the G2 hammer to clear the cross-brace as the original hammer is cut. Pin the new trigger group in place. Cut a square hole for the pistol grip nut, and install the pistol grip (some S-308 receivers are already cut for the PG nut). Install the U.S. made butt stock. Enjoy your legally converted Saiga.

So do it! If you don't have a Dremel, you can do it with a file (but you'd better pack a lunch). I must warn you that it will seem like you're making zero progress, but don't get aggressive about it. Take a little at a time and test it each time. If you get too aggressive, you'll ruin your trigger group.

Just wanted to give a quick range report. It works great! While at home, I could hear the disconnector contact the hammer, so I wasn't sure if I'd be able to feel it while in a noisy environment. I could feel it just fine with people rapid-firing around me. It's much easier to hit a smaller target when you know the exact point at which the trigger is gonna break. No need for a RSA trigger here.

I followed Tony's instructions from my previous thread, and cut the foot of the disconnector for a two-stage feel. Link I had to slightly cut the rear of the hammer so the disconnector would release it when the trigger is released. A light polishing and the trigger feels good. The second stage is very tiny and very light, but it's there. I'll have to try it at the range to see how it really feels. Thanks, Tony, for giving me the skinny on how to do it.

Damn! I thought twenty cents per round was expensive! I'm glad I reload!

Sorry, I'm running a little behind on this forum. No, I don't see a need for a clickable sight on your rifle, unless you plan to use it for combat or match shooting. Clickable windage and elevation would be nice for those scenarios, but a little target shooting and pig popping shouldn't require a click adjustable sight.

FWIW, since I got my Garand, I've put aperture sights on my 10/22, SKS, AK, and Saiga .308. Shooting with a peep is like having a 2x scope without the extra weight and hassle of glass.

You're supposed to know whether your wife likes it to kick hard or not. Maybe she's trying to tell you something.

It's not a Mojo, but I have a Williams peep sight on my .308. It is much easier to stay focused on the front sight and keep it centered in the aperture. I want a Mojo for clickable windage and elevation adjustments.

Forget the tap. Once again, there is no bullet guide on the .308 Saiga. K-VAR has nice furniture and parts. Shipping is a little high, but they're products are nice. Make sure you get the pistol grip nut and bolt. http://www.k-var.com/shop/ Copes Dist. also has good stuff. http://www.copesdist.com/ak47.htm

I'd say to keep the welder away from it. We're talking about cutting welds with a drill, dremel, or die grinder. We're not talking about welding. The places where you'll cut the spot welds will be covered by your pistol grip and trigger guard, so you don't need to worry. I wish I'd taken pics during my conversion. The linked procedure makes it seem more difficult than it actually is (for a .308 rifle). Be confident. This takes little more talent than changing a flat tire.

Yeah, the spot welds are a bitch, but they can be cut through. A carbide bit at low speed on my cordless drill, and a frequent drop of cutting oil did the trick for me. The rest of it is a breeze. Get yourself a U.S. butt-stock, U.S. pistol grip, and a G2 trigger group for 5 compliance parts. Then follow the instructions linked above. Forget about the bullet guide, the S-308 doesn't need it. Also, forget about removing the extra trigger pins and filling their holes. The S-308 doesn't have them either. So it's a matter of removing the stock and trigger group. Cutting the adapter pla