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Everything posted by pogy

  1. Receiver cover mounts are not solid enough to hold zero! A good rail mount is the best way to go IMHO. For a SHTF weapon, I don't think you can go wrong with a POSP 4X24 scope for price ,durability and quality.
  2. The door trim works. It was not my idea but here is my post on the fix. After the glue dried, it cleaned up well and is not very noticable. Check out the link. http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showto...mp;#entry231125
  3. nalioth. With all due respect to your Saiga knowledge, Galil polymer mags do not work without a bullet guide. Because I have read many of your posts, I tried chambering a round in my .223 with a modified Galil 30 round mag in my .223 Saiga. (by modified I mean that the filing was done to make it fit) It does not work! The rifle needs a bullet guide for it to work properly. I wish you were right but... Respectfully, pg
  4. Never apologize for "toes" in the picture! Just don't fall off of the bed!
  5. Please don't misunderstand me but my 22" Saiga .223 is not a tack driver. It is a great reliable weapon but is not sub MOA (which I consider to be a "tack driver") on a regular basis. I would not trade it from my small gun collection but it is not my gun of choice for accuracy. You can do much better with a bolt action for near the same price.
  6. pogy

    'nother newbie

    Welcome to the Forum. There are a bunch of very sharp members here and I'm sure they will chime in ,especially if I give you any bad info. I did a conversion and I didn't even sleep at a Holiday Inn Express. I did not feel the need to go to hi-caps though but I'm ready if I change my mind. I believe that SureFire makes hi cap mags that do not require a feed ramp. I'll let folks who own them comment on their reliability. It is my understanding that if you install a feed ramp that the stock Saiga mags will no longer work.
  7. pogy

    Case Damage

    I finally got around to trying the case damage "cure" mentioned previously on this Forum. It involved glueing plastic door edge guard to the receiver cover to minimize damage caused by the case ejection into the edge of the cover. Please understand that this was a "test of concept" (Yup! I watch the MythBusters) so it ain't pretty just down 'n dirty. I had an old piece of edge guard that fell off of my daughter's car and saved for this purpose. After trimming a couple of pieces with a razor blade I pulled out the old tube of "GOOP" from the drawer and discovered that it was a bit older than I thought. Nonetheless, I worked the lumpy stuff into the grooves and applied it to the receiver cover. I told you it was ugly. After a day it was solid except for the very tip. The action worked smoothly with no contact. Today it was off to the range. The first shot was not aimed. I was mainly concerned with where the case would land and what kind of condition it was in. Before the mod, my cases would eject a bit forward of my position. Now, they eject almost straight to the right. They were hitting my truck and I had to move it. Overall, I am very pleased. The Saiga still dings the brass. The dings used to have a very defined, sharp contour. Now, you can see that much of the energy has been spread out resulting in a very shallow ding. This is a variety of spent cases. I wanted some contrast to display the dents but this view exaggerates them a bit. The "deepest" ones aren't really that bad. I won't have any qualms about reloading them another time. We'll see what they look like the next time. Obviously, my Saiga brass will remain separate from my fire formed T/C Encore .223 cases. Now that I have proven to myself that this mod works, I will tear the stuff off and do it right. My thanks to "MD_Willington" who suggested this.
  8. Nobody here has had rust on steel cased ammo?
  9. I have 1000 rounds of the above ammo that I purchased last year.. It came in two 500 round packs each wrapped in plastic. I opened one of the bulk packs when I got them just to check one box to see what the condition was. Just today, I noticed that some of the cases are starting to rust. Does anyone know if this is because I opened the sealed pack? Will the stuff in the sealed pack be rusting also? Is there anything I can do to protect the ammo from getting worse? Thanks
  10. Well, you're only half right Norseman. I had 500 rounds of .223 Wolf in a black box which was Boxer primed. It's almost gone now. I ordered another 1000 rounds of Wolf Military Classic in .223 last year. It's in a Camo box and it is Berdan primed. I guess it depends on what you bought.
  11. AKMIKEFMJ, That's a fine job you did there. I wish I had your metal working talents. Oh, the things I'd like to do to some of my stuff. We folks that can't do or don't have the resources will have to make do with the Dinzag Arms Flat Trunion Bullet Guide Kit for $32.00.
  12. Yup! Finding reasonably priced .223 is tough because everyone is looking for it. I'm sitting on the last 1000 rounds of Wolf I bought a year ago. Reloading seems to be the way to go unless you have a bunch of bucks to spend.
  13. Well, Just for another opinion, my .223 (same receiver) pistol grip is held in by a brass toilet tank bolt. I had problems getting hold of the proper hardware but this has worked well for the past year. I'll probably order the "right stuff" when I can piggyback more items to save on shipping. Until then, it works fine!
  14. pogy

    Saiga Range report

    Sarduy, Congrats on your new purchase. I have a 20" .223 Saiga that I have converted. A 1 MOA group @ 50 yds is very good for this rifle. That would convert to a sub 2 MOA @ 100 yds in theory. I believe that with time, you will find out that the .223 Saiga will not consistently shoot those groups. I find that my groups tend to the 3 MOA area in general. I shoot those with a POSP 4X24 scope and Wolf Military. I hope you do have the "golden barrel" and shoot 2 MOA with regularity but if I were you I wouldn't be disappointed if the rifle won't. It's still a great weapon!!!
  15. pogy

    Guten Abend

    What Snuffy said!
  16. Very nice group Indy. I too have aging eyes. I would prefer to zero in my irons but just can't get a good sight picture. I do love my POSP 4X24 though. For the price, it is excellent glass and it holds zero when you pull it off and put it back on.
  17. Looks good Hobo. It's not an easy job to do. I know, I tried it myself. It was a WECSOG job with a drill, round file and a flat file. It takes a while, don't it. I found that mine looks a bit better when you step back a few feet.
  18. That's a great value! I paid $176 for a case of Wolf Classic .223 shipped to my home January 2007 before the price hike.
  19. Why don't you take out a loan on your house to buy the rest? Your parent's house? A loan from the Russian Mafia? Tell the federal government that you are a victim of unscrupulous loan practices and need a bailout! Sixteen cents/round. Outstanding value! You could rid several counties of Zombies!!! It's too late for me in CT.
  20. That brass looks like mine when I fire it in my Saiga .223. They ding brass as has been discussed on previous threads. The steel- "not so much"! The Federal you are firing is "military spec". If it is indeed 5.56 mm ammo, that could be the cause of the problem since Saigas are chambered for .223 Remington.
  21. That is ridiculous. The Cabela's near me won't even stock Hi-Points as a salesperson told me because they have a pistol grip!
  22. I did the conversion last year and did not reinstall the BHO. Out of boredom one night this winter, I cold-blued the BHO and reinstalled it. I didn't like it very much. My finger would hit it when I squeezed the trigger, so out it came again for good! It would also be in the way if you like to "bump fire" occasionally. The BHO on the Saiga does not hold the bolt open on the last round even with a mag in. That is a function of the follower on some magazines. Apparently the BHO is required at some ranges and certain competitions for safety purposes. To reinstall it and have full function of your rifle, I believe some metal needs to be removed from the hammer since you have added another part to the mechanism. You will not be able to lock the pin which runs through the hammer unless the hammer is modified. It's not worth the hassle if you ask me.
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