Teig

Alright, I've: -softened the edges of the hammer -polished the rails, bolt carrier, and hammer -installed the DPH gas plug and CSS puck, decided to put the performance recoil spring aside for now -threw in a buffer just in case The results? I've had one hangup out of about 50 bulk target loads so far but otherwise she's running flawlessly. Only thing left to do is run a few hundred through to break her in fully and learn to manage recoil just a bit better, hah.

That is going to help tremendously, thank you very much. And yes utah, effortlessly so. I should have all the supplies I need for polishing up the whole thing and re-profiling the hammer in a few days, wish me luck, eh?

I'm having trouble finding a good reference for what a reprofiled G2 hammer should look like, after lurking the forums a bit it seems like there was one once upon a time but it was deleted? Suppose I'll just go the tiniest bit at a time and test her out in between.

The hammer, being the G2, does sit a lot higher yeah. It gives a significant amount of resistance where it has to be pushed down 1/4 of an inch or so when the bolt moves rearward which is why I considered grinding it down a bit. Other than that I'm noticing that a loaded mag puts up a fair bit of resistance as well so polishing the conflicting surfaces may help a bit as well.

I'll keep that in mind, I'll try to just soften up the edges a bit, may as well polish everything up a tad more too. While I'm at it since I haven't replaced the spring (or anything else, really) would it be worth it to just go ahead and get the reliability kit as well?

Some other relevant information, the gas port is a 3-hole. After complete disassembly I can easily poke a standard paperclip through each one with lots of wiggle room. I'll get around to working the hammer (it's a Tapco G2 trigger, by the way) on a grinder for about 1/8" and see how she runs after that.

Even with the rail off it still does not improve. The bolt handle is unmodified.

There's a rail on top of the dust cover but it isn't obstructing anything, has a cutout in the same dimensions as the dust cover..

Actually now that I've read around a bit it seems like that hammer resistance is causing enough hang up to stop it from getting enough speed to eject hard enough. (had to use two hands but with some extra elbow grease I managed to get one to eject "normally") Hammer moves down a good fourth of an inch, I feel just polishing it wouldn't do much good and taking about 1/8 of metal from the hammer might solve the problem. What do you think?

They'll pop off the claws just fine every time either hand cranking or firing, trouble is they don't go at much of an angle. Hand cycling with all the gusto I can muster I can get them to leave the port but they only travel about two inches at most. As far as internal friction goes everything moves back very smoothly and it cycles with minimal effort. It has no recoil buffer and the piston chamber is clean as a whistle. Rides just a tad on the hammer but not enough to make cycling difficult, feels and looks just the same as my other AKs if that means anything. So in short it cycles smoothl

I've bought a Saiga 12 recently -already converted and lightly used- and no matter what I shoot out of it (tried 2.75 buckshot, birdshot, and slugs alike out of 5, 10, and 20 round mags) I get a FTE every single time. With the gas settings at #2 (even tried #1 for the hell of it) the action cycles back just fine (so I am doubting this is an issue with the gas block), however the empty shells always either stovepipe or just don't go anywhere at all. As I've heard the guns usually spew em out pretty far and this just isn't happening. Disassembling the gun and working the action manually without