mrwiggles2004
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Posts posted by mrwiggles2004
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In this picture, you can see the single point mount and just barely see the screw peaking out from under the pistol grip. Not visible when in use. The original mount just clamps around the PG bushing/nut and is secured by tension from the PG. I had to open up the whole front of the hole for the PG nut to wrap around the back of the CSS trigger guard, hence the screw to keep it back backing off under hard use.
Looks nice! What sling are you using BTW?
Ultimate Arms Gear multi point. Can convert between single point and a two point.
6" and 2" rails added, Magpul AFG2 installed, robbed the Surefire off my 1911 till I get a Streamlight for this rifle.
I like it. The AFG breaks up the weird curve of the HG nicely.
Random question, but do you happen to know how much your phoenix tech stock weighs?
I do like how you squared the front. Maybe I'll do the same.
Thanks! It's an easy mod, and there is a big chunk of metal right there so you even shave a hair of weight.
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In this picture, you can see the single point mount and just barely see the screw peaking out from under the pistol grip. Not visible when in use. The original mount just clamps around the PG bushing/nut and is secured by tension from the PG. I had to open up the whole front of the hole for the PG nut to wrap around the back of the CSS trigger guard, hence the screw to keep it back backing off under hard use.
Looks nice! What sling are you using BTW?
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Looks good to me. I plan on attaching some kind of hand stop on mine and getting a 5"x7" piece of Talon grip tape to add texture.
Thanks! I've got grip tape on my 1911's and i like the way it feels. Didn't think about that for this, but that probably wouldn't be a bad idea.
I'm heading some of the same direction you are on my x39.
Have a 6" and 2" section of rail coming, a Magpul AFG2 will go on, and for the time being I'll have the option to hot swap my Surefire X200 from my 1911 to my AK till I get a Streamlight or similar with some decent output and range.
I agree on the stippling, either the whole thing or none. And personally I would've done it with a smaller appliance so it's more sandpaper and less pebbly in texture. That said, I agree on outfitting the factory handguard. It's a good, lightweight piece. I just needs some work to suit to the user's needs. I'm definitely stealing your idea and moving my buttplate sling point to the handguard since I have a single point sling adapter on now, and my sling can swap between single and dual point if I have a sling attach point on the foreend.
Good job on the cutouts! Good advice going on here.
With my next attempt I will indeed use a smaller solder tip to achieve a more uniform and sandpaper like texture. To be honest this is the first time I have stippled anything, and all I had was an old worn out tip that I didn't mind getting plastic all over. Good learning experience either way.
In the picture I don't have my flashlight mounted, but it is usually sporting a streamlight polytac in 1" rings on the forward rail. I thought about swapping one of the direct mount M lok scout mounts for my light to save some weight. Bolt it right where the rail section was and eliminate the rail and separate ring setup.
I really like having that sling attachment there and it's about as light as it gets! I actually added another one to the buttstock where it meets the receiver for my single point. Works great!
I went this route for the single point sling mount. Took some work to make it play nice with the CSS billet trigger guard, but should drop right onto a convention PG but and trigger guard. Beefy.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KFR6SL8
Interesting. I have the same trigger guard. I like it so far, haven't had any issues with it coming loose or anything.
What stock is that, and have you put it on the scale by any chance? Is the buttplate polymer or some sort of metal?
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She's a sexy lil thing.
Thanks! I'm attached to her, and she groups well with the RSA trigger. Definitely my favorite conversion.
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I'm heading some of the same direction you are on my x39.
Have a 6" and 2" section of rail coming, a Magpul AFG2 will go on, and for the time being I'll have the option to hot swap my Surefire X200 from my 1911 to my AK till I get a Streamlight or similar with some decent output and range.
I agree on the stippling, either the whole thing or none. And personally I would've done it with a smaller appliance so it's more sandpaper and less pebbly in texture. That said, I agree on outfitting the factory handguard. It's a good, lightweight piece. I just needs some work to suit to the user's needs. I'm definitely stealing your idea and moving my buttplate sling point to the handguard since I have a single point sling adapter on now, and my sling can swap between single and dual point if I have a sling attach point on the foreend.
Good job on the cutouts! Good advice going on here.
With my next attempt I will indeed use a smaller solder tip to achieve a more uniform and sandpaper like texture. To be honest this is the first time I have stippled anything, and all I had was an old worn out tip that I didn't mind getting plastic all over. Good learning experience either way.
In the picture I don't have my flashlight mounted, but it is usually sporting a streamlight polytac in 1" rings on the forward rail. I thought about swapping one of the direct mount M lok scout mounts for my light to save some weight. Bolt it right where the rail section was and eliminate the rail and separate ring setup.
I really like having that sling attachment there and it's about as light as it gets! I actually added another one to the buttstock where it meets the receiver for my single point. Works great!
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I used the factory trigger guard and drilled a hole for a screw and nut. Red loctited it all down and haven't had any problems.
I went with the RSA trigger, and as others have mentioned I had the side-to-side play as well. I took some aluminum spacers from HD and cut them to size for either side of the trigger pin.
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This is the first one I have done, and the vents aren't the smoothest, but I like the way it turned out.
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Now that's what I'm talkin about. Very nice. The only thing that turns me off of this setup (slightly), is how the upper retainer sits in the slot of the lower handguard. That's what made me wonder if it was at all possible to move that retainer forward, so that you could fit a longer upper handguard. Pop it off and tack weld maybe? I haven't seen one in person so Idk. Do you have any more pics? Perhaps a good profile, so I can get a better idea of how it looks with the short barrel? It's a 16" right? Do you have a pic of it before you threaded the barrel or was that before you did the handguards?
Factory AK gas tubes have their furniture brackets spot welded on, so they could be moved after grinding the welds and re positioning. After a few mock ups I determined that it wasn't worth the trouble for me because the lower HG and upper HG were almost exactly proportional to their original config just shorter.
It is in fact a 16" barreled Saiga .308, and it was bone stock when I got it accept for a Tapco T6 Saiga stock. It looked just like this
And then after the conversion. I did the conversion and threaded the barrel at the same time.
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Not a fan of stippling either, but I commend you on your originality and desiring to mod the factory HG to something that works for you. That is something this forum has lost IMHO.
As far as weight and looks go, I think you have already done as much to factory HG as can be done without shortening it more. IMO I think the HG would actually look better if it was all stippled over just the portion of the back. Either way, nice job and welcome to the forum.
Thanks for the feedback. I may stipple the whole thing in some fashion, or like you said just do the whole back. All in all I think the vents, and cutting the front square to the gas block made the most positive visual difference.
I think your right on the weight aspect. I am not going to get anymore off of the HG without compromising rigidity. Next step is cutting the barrel, pinning FH to 16" and pushing the FSB back. The goal is 6.5lbs.
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I did something similar on my .308, and it consisted of the following:
-PSL Handguard
-Dinzag HG Retainer
I mounted the HG Retainer directly behind the gas block, and trimmed the PSL wood to fit. It's not that hard really if you have some patience, and basic woodworking skills.
The upper HG is a standard AK gas tube and the PSL Upper shaved to match the lower.
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My wife says it looks like barnacles, LOL.
I agree. I definitely wouldn't stipple a Glock frame or anything, but I have a pile of these handguards so what the hell.
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In my quest to shave as much weight as possible off of my Saiga .223 I have come to the conclusion that the factory handguard is lightest inclusive system at the moment.
That doesn't change the fact that they have a look that only a mother could love... So having a few laying around I went ahead and hacked and stippled one to see if I could make it any better. I think the results turned out pretty decent.
One thing I did that I have not seen anyone attempt is to stipple some parts for a better purchase. despite being a bit cliche' this particular application seems to work well. What are your thoughts? Anybody else have any good modifications for the factory handguard???
PS: I'm right at 7 pounds with the current setup, and the magpul rail section weighs almost an ounce. The VG probably weights a little more.
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I recently modded 10 M85 mags for my saiga .223 and they have been 100% so far. Mine fit like a glove as well with similar mods as the OP.
I did some rapid fire with them just to test but i generally take my time when I shoot so they haven't really been "torture tested".
After the first mod the other 9 went really quickly with a dremel. For the price I paid I don't think there is a better mag option for the S223 as long as they continue to function and the prices stay low. Only negative is they are heavy as hell and don't like mag pouches, but overall I'm extremely happy with them.
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Keeping things spartan is good sense and that means the rifle isnt any heavier than it need be.
I guess you can call that lightening.
Agreed.
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Heh still say its just easier to hit the weights a bit...
Besides the ol lady might like the results.
How about hitting the gym and taking weight off the rifle? IMO full length rails on a handguard to mount a sling swivel and flashlight just isn't worth the weight. Making a rifle as light as possible without compromising functionality is just smart.
If you ever plan to carry anything other than your rifle into the woods both options make sense. If you have other gear when you go camping/hunting whatever you will be glad to have that extra pound. My old lady isn't complaining
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Some things that worked for me while bringing the weight down on my .308 and .223 recently:
Stock Forearm (7.9 oz after mods)- Probably one of the lightest you are going to find. I vented mine at the top to let out some heat, and to make it look a little better. There is a steel insert at the business end of the handguard, if you have access to a mill some relief cuts there will drop a little weight. Another thing I did was lose the stock sling swivel stud because it's worthless due to not being hollow, and I bolted a sling mount from the rear of an ak stock vertically on the saiga HG in about the same spot as an ak sling mount.
Tapco AK Stock (10.48 oz)- The Tapco is lighter than any of the other fixed variants i came across. The stock Tapco buttplate is a chunk, and if you have a factory stamped AK buttplate around they are much lighter.
Gas Tube (3.28 oz after mods)- Remove the factory heat shield that comes on the saiga gas tubes.
Other than the above mods you can delete the BHO for a small amount of weight savings, and the side scope rail can be removed if you wish as well for a significant weight savings. I also moved my stock sling swivel up near the receiver so I can run a single point sling if I wish without adding a sling plate. All of the grips I weighed were so close that it didn't make sense to swap just use the one you like best.
I hope this helps someone out.
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mrwiggles2004, who threaded your barrel?
I threaded it myself to 1/2x28 with a die and thread alignment tool from CNCW.
Very nice looking rifle. When you do a booster FSB setup like that to get to 16" OAL are you required to weld the FSB on as well or is pinning acceptable so long as the flash hider is welded in place?
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You can shave off 1oz by switching out that tapco buttplate for a surplus AK model without the trapdoor. The factory TAPCO buttplate is 1.5 oz.
Also someone mentioned losing the BHO, that was good for about .25 oz IIRC.
I'm at 7.5 lbs unloaded with the light
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I've been working on getting the weight down on mine as well. I'm at 7.25 lbs without the light and 7.5 lbs with the light and no mag.
Considering going the 14.5" route and removing the side rail, I just need to man up and do it.
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I wonder if you could use a 7.62x39 barrel, and adjust the head spacing. Or re-profile the chamber.
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Ak Monty, thank you sir! Good to be here! Finally got around to posting.
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Here are a few pics of my .308 build. Kind a of PSL mash up.
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Saiga 7.62
in Saiga 7.62 X 39
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It looks like there is an awful lot of space still between your ring halves.
Have you followed the proper torque sequence when installing the rings? It looks like either the rings are not all the way tight or you completely tightened one sid of the rings all the way and then did the other side leaving a gap.