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Flatland Shooter

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Posts posted by Flatland Shooter

  1. 20 round mags look silly.

     

    And heavy.

     

    The competition shooters may be looking for something to compete against the X-Rail (26 rds). If they make the springs, they will buy.

     

    My highest capacity "big stick" for the MKA 1919 is a Roulette magazine extension (currently 17rds, soon to be 18rds) and loaded with 1 oz loads it weighs almost 5-1/4#. With the gun, that is over 13#.

     

    Before I can consider anything larger, I'll need to get out the old kettle bells and get a workout routine going.

     

    Bill

     

  2. We've got them, just not on our website, give me a call.

     

    Do you have a good supply of the Gen 1 barrels? I was waiting until the refined comp was available and have one installed. If supply is low (and will not be refilled in the future), should I buy a barrel now?

     

    Thanks.

     

    Bill

  3. I was roaming the internet the other night and found this site. They make an Akdal to Saiga mag coupler and even better, a Saiga to Saiga coupler. What this will allow is putting together a 20 + round mag...theoretically. There are already 20 round Saiga mags coupled using SGM mags, so there is a spring that is available.

    This may be a better option for fixing some of the mag related problems, because the transition area seems to be where all the hangups are...I have ordered some and will see. If 18 is good..20+ would be better and lighter weight also (no aluminum body).

     

    Here is the website: Higher Capacity

     

    Other than price for the coupler, not a lot of information on the website.

     

    Just looking at it, you need 1 - Akdal 5 rd mag + 2 SGM Saiga 12 rd magazines + the Akdal to Saiga coupler and a Saiga to Saiga coupler?

     

    Or roughly $220 for a 20 or 22 rd Akdal magazine?

     

    I'd heard Bill was working on a project of this nature for a while now. Based on his reputation, they work or he would not be offering them.

     

    Definitely not knocking it. Just asking questions for my personal enlightenment.

     

    Bill

  4. I haven't fired it yet,but like you I don't shoot competition & wanted it for fun but something left in stock config. but more refined than the MKA (shooting my existing 10 round mags will tell the story by Friday)

     

     

    Do the MKA 1919 parts needed to make this gun 922r compliant fit the BR-99? Or is there a source for the parts? Would be nice to have a "not so expensive" backup gun for competition shooters.

  5. Getting off topic, but a humorous look at the effects of recoil.

    http://what-if.xkcd.com/21/

     

    I guess I'm spending too many dollars at the local Redbox. We watched a movie last week (I think it was either "Recall" or "Dredd") where the star was in a weightless environment and used a submachine gun for propulsion to float away from the enemy including a hard right turn down a hallway.

     

    I guess the Russians and Hollywood uses the same sources for ideas.

  6. Goes back to Force=mass x acceleration.

     

    If we keep the weight of the gun constant and use the same loads each time, the force will remain constant. By increasing the mass, the acceleration (felt recoil) decreases.

     

    But as a competition shooter, I'm not so much concerned with recoil as I am about muzzle rise.

     

    In an open pistol with all the bells and whistles (those with a compensator and/or ports cut into the top of the barrel) we try to tune our loads to minimize sight movement.

     

    Minimum Power Factor to make Major in USPSA is 165. Folks with older style comps, designed when the Power Factor was 175, discovered that they could reduce the amount of powder used and still make Major. Decreasing the amount of powder will decrease recoil but the reduction in gas results in more muzzle rise. So to minimize that muzzle rise, we put up with increased recoil. (Or try to find a new combination of bullets and powder to meet out goals.)

     

    Bill

  7. So I need to file a tiny bit on the bolt so the F.B handel will fit the bolt carier,it wont go in and I thought I had read this.

     

    Rule #1 on the Amateur Gunsmith list is "File on the cheapest part (or in this case, the most readily available part) first".

     

    Rule #2 is leave that Dremel tool in the box.

     

    The Firebird handle took a little fitting to work. I never touched the bolt.

    • Like 1
  8.  

     

    We will offer a barrel/comp package, most likely, as well as setting up your barrel with a comp.

     

     

    As it continues to break in, the lighter I can go with the shells. Yesterday I went through a box of Remington STS 1145 fps shells without a hiccup.

     

    Your experience is the same as we've had, even with the PRE XN models, I could run 1145's in mine with NO modifications(spring, porting etc.) We are running 1145's now with our comp , XN model , had to make a few barrel port adjustments to find the sweet spot.

    finishing the 4th test concept now, working toward lowering the muzzle rise hoping for 75% reduction.

     

     

    Mine is a pre-XN. Are the barrels the same or different? If different, will you offer the barrel/comp set for us old timers?

  9. We will offer a barrel/comp package, most likely, as well as setting up your barrel with a comp.

     

    The barrel/comp package is a great idea. You get the best of both worlds. I've wanted to try an MKA comp, but mine is running so sweet with the stock barrel I hate to mess with it.

     

    As it continues to break in, the lighter I can go with the shells. Yesterday I went through a box of Remington STS 1145 fps shells without a hiccup.

  10. I'd say my dry firing hasn't been excessive, but at every step along the way of my build I rack & dry fire as part of function testing. Most of the dry firing was during magazine feed lip tuning, and that took a while to get the bolt open function working on all of my magazines. The ever loosening choke is the only issue I've seen, and it doesn't take many handle pulls to get it loose. The wall thickness of the barrel seems too thin to allow a threaded lock ring, so I'll probably just use a drop of high temp thread locker and call it a day.

     

    This is my first and only shotgun. Are loose chokes an issue on other shotguns?

     

    On this and other forums, some folks have indicated they have problems keeping the chokes tight on these shotguns.

     

    The MKA 1919 is the only gun I own that uses WinChokes. I have several Remingtons for hunting and two Browning O/U's for sporting clays that have all seen a lot of use without the chokes coming loose. I also have an after-market Hasting barrels that keeps the chokes tight.

     

    I've heard from friends that some of the high end Beretta O/U's (Optima choke) will occasionally have problems. These are folks that shoot thousands of rounds each month. If they don't need to change out the chokes, some shooters have heated up the barrel with heated hair dryers and then tightened down the choke. That seems to work but you need to re-heat the barrel to remove the choke.

     

    I use my MKA for 3 Gun and want to have the flexibility to change chokes if needed. Usually I have a "LM" in the gun but other chokes have their uses. That rules out LocTite for me.

     

    I'm experimenting with different choke lubes to see if there might be one that grabs the threads a little better than the others.

  11. Glad you are having fun. When mine was new (polymer lower and 5 rd magazines shooting 1300 fps loads) the recoil was quite noticeable but manageable. Add the weight of an aluminum lower, a 15 rd magazine and 1200 fps loads, it shoots like a dream. Instead of an AR, it hoists more like a Garand.

     

    You mentioned the choke coming loose while dry firing. I'm still having problems with Carlson chokes coming loose after around 15 shots fired. Still looking for a cure since we occasionally have stages up to 30 rds.

     

    Earlier I posted the question of whether dry firing the MKA 1919 was recommended or harmful to the gun. Has your dry firing been extensive and have any problems developed?

     

    Thanks.

     

    Bill

  12. i gave up on running Winchester 7 1/2 ammo 1200 even with a gas booster bushing, lighter recoil spring and a new gas piston in it its a crap shoot with about 25 persent reliability, i have probally a 1000 rounds through it, Remington runs perfect!! keep us posted i would like to know what it took.

     

    I think a lot of it has to do with the weather. When it was cooler, I had less problems with Winchester, Federal and Estate shells. The warmer it got, the worse these shells performed.

     

    The Remington Gun Club hulls seem to stay a little harder than the others in warm weather.

     

    Shot a 3 Gun Match this past weekend using Remington Gun Club shells only. Ran 100% despite the 106 degree heat.

     

    Bill

  13. Tore it down and barrel was very clean. There are definitely 2 spots, side by side, about 5-6" from the feed ramp side, into the barrel. I ran a cleaning cloth through and the cloth was snagging on those 2 spots. It's obvious that the 3 fragments came from that area. What should I do....call the retailer, or the manufacturer/importer?

     

    That's the first barrel problem I've heard of. Please keep us informed with any info you might receive. Was this an XN or pre-XN model?

     

    Thanks.

  14. Are you sure they are magnetic?

     

    The upper receiver is aluminum and as Matt indicated, some see a little shaving of the upper during break in.

     

    If they are magnetic, you may have a problem we have not seen before.

     

    Bill

  15. I never liked the feel of the safety my XN model. Sloppy, rough, and not very positive. It seems to have gotten worse after firing the gun a few times. Taking things apart right now, I decided to look up the opening, and found no ball on the screw. When I screwed it all the way out, I found where the ball should be, and I could see the spring, but no ball. Where it is was anybody's guess.

     

    Anyhow, once I found it was a M5 metric thread and measured the length, I got on the McMaster-Carr website and found the Ball Nose Spring Plungers, found the right one, number 3391A66 Steel Metric Ball-Nose Spring Plunger m5x0.8 Thread, 1.8-3.2 lb Nose Force, and order 2. I got them in one day UPS.

     

    The part looked better made then the original. I cleaned up everything, got all the oil, grit, plastic shavings out of anything to do with the safety. Put it back together with a small drop of oil on the surface of the safety were the ball rides. I found the safety much smoother, with a definite clunk as the detent ball engaged the dimple in the safety.

     

    Nice fix. This was probably another case where the Turk's hand fitted the parts with a little too much tolerance.

     

    Usually when we talk about a firearm with hand fit parts, we are talking about a high dollar custom gun. Not so with the MKA 1919.

  16. I've got a lot more rounds down range than you do but still locked into Remington Gun Club loads at 1200 fps. They give me 100% reliability. So far I also get 100% with Remington Managed Recoil slugs and Rio Low Recoil buckshot.

     

    About two weeks ago I carried a bunch of misc rounds from the garage to see if my gun can handle them. Last time I tried this the gun had less than 500 rds through it.

     

    I also have the gas booster, reduced power recoil spring and aftermarket charging handle.

     

    The Walmart Winchester bulk ammo (1200 fps) was less than 50% reliable. FTF only.

     

    Estate Dove loads (1200 fps) were around 75% reliable. FTF only.

     

    Winchester AA Lite Target loads (1145 fps?) were less than 25% reliable. FTF and FTE.

     

    This was the first time I ran this test with the new Firebird Precision aluminum lower installed on a pre-XN upper. As always, I run it wet.

     

    I had hopes for better reliability with a greater selection of ammo, but I'm not there yet.

  17. Has anyone determined what part in the MKA 1919 that the BATFE considers to be the mounting block (front trunion)?

     

    I'm at a legal 10 parts with the factory 10 rd magazines and at 9 parts with the Firebird 15 rd magazines (uses a Surfire USA made magazine floorplate.)

    Thanks.

     

    Bill

  18. Thanks for the response. Besides the bolt for the grip do the rest of the mentioned parts come from my old lower?

     

    You can use the parts from your polymer lower but changing out these parts (hammer, disconnector & trigger) will result in three part towards 922 compliance and a far better trigger pull.

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