Flatland Shooter
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Posts posted by Flatland Shooter
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Due to time constraints and the hot and humid Texas Gulf Coast weather, I've been getting a little more dry fire practice than usual. Dry firing may not be as good as live fire, but you can't beat the air conditioning.
I've dry fired my 2011 and AR a lot with no problems and now I've added the MKA 1919 to the practice session.
Should it matter, it has the Firebird fire control parts as well as the FP titanium firing pin installed.
So, am I doing some damage to the gun or is it good to go?
Thanks.
Bill
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I'm going from memory, but I think Jim from Firebird Precision said it was some kind of proprietary metric thread.
I guess it must be hard to duplicate since I don't see them offered anywhere.
Bill
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Sorry. I'm not a supporter of CTD and have not done business with them in years. Just wanted to give others the opportunity to own a MKA 1919 at a decent price.
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Received an e-mail for CTD (yeh, I know), but for those still willing to buy from them they have some MKA 1919 for $599.
Nothing to indicate if these are the "XN" models.
Oh well, did my good deed for the day.
Bill
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Not a good idea.
Page 43 (also on page 10) of the ATF Federal Firearms Regulations Reference Guide:
§ 478.34 Removed, obliterated, or altered
serial number.
No person shall knowingly transport,
ship, or receive in interstate or foreign
commerce any firearm which has had the
importer's or manufacturer's serial number
removed, obliterated, or altered, or possess
or receive any firearm which has had
the importer's or manufacturer's serial
number removed, obliterated, or altered
and has, at any time, been shipped or
transported
But if the part is not the serialized portion of the gun, I would think it would not matter. If they tried to keep track of the second number, then the Fed's records would show two guns of the same make and model with the same serial number and that is a big no-no.
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I don't think "we only stole from "amish" they won't press charges" is not an affirmative defense in Missouri.
I just hope these budding rocket scientists don't walk with a slap on the wrist.
Bill
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I guess I worded it poorly. I meant to ask what restriction was the choke.
Through the years I've heard:
#1) never use a choke tighter than MOD (sometimes they say never use FULL)
and
#2) as long as you use non-rifled lead slugs, any choke will work.
The tightest I have used for slugs is LM and I've stuck with that simply because it seems to be the most accurate with Remington Managed Recoil Slugs. If the gun is at risk with that choke, I would switch to a more open choke in a New York minute.
But I've probably shot a lot less slugs than most members of the forum have shot. Just wondered what choke restriction you were using.
Thanks.
Bill
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What choke were you using when you shot the slugs?
Let us know what RAA has to say. Hope its not a widespread problem.
Bill
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My concern with carrying the mags with the shells down was leaving a trail of 12 gauge rounds as I ran downrange. So far in practice that has not happened and others indicate they have done the same with no problems.
Bill
Im not worried about dropping shells when running, but rather sticking (or losing) the the top round into mud when kneeling, going prone, crawling, or some other crazy activity.
We are in a drought so I've not seen mud in a while (but I don't miss it either).
But I do see your point.
However, going prone, crawling and some other crazy activities are no longer in my skill set (age 61 and counting).
Something like that might be slightly iffy rounds down... It was bad enough rounds up
I ought to build one of those snow fence chicken coops for our monthy club match. Looks like a hoot. It'd more likely end up in a lynching.
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My concern with carrying the mags with the shells down was leaving a trail of 12 gauge rounds as I ran downrange. So far in practice that has not happened and others indicate they have done the same with no problems.
Bill
Im not worried about dropping shells when running, but rather sticking (or losing) the the top round into mud when kneeling, going prone, crawling, or some other crazy activity.
We are in a drought so I've not seen mud in a while (but I don't miss it either).
But I do see your point.
However, going prone, crawling and some other crazy activities are no longer in my skill set (age 61 and counting).
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Looks like that was a fun match.
What power is that AR scope?
Thanks.
Bill
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See my solution on that same thread. Pretty similar to others for 10 rounders.
I don't think kydex holsters is the way to go for the 15 rounders, too long. I think belt clips will be the way to go for the 15s. I am going to try carrying shells up. I wonder if trying to rotate a 15 rounder that is carried shells down wouldn't be too unwieldy. If you carry it shells up, I think it would be easier to grip and pull it straight up into the magwell.
I plan to carry the MKA magazines way back on my left hip behind the pistol magazine pouches. With the shells down, I can reach back and place my thumb on the rear of the magazine, pull upward and rotate the magazine to vertical as I move it to the gun. With the shells down, I can move a mag all the way to the small of the back and still get a good grasp on the magazine.
With the shells up, I have to twist my hand clockwise to get a similar (but not quite as good) grip on the magazine. It also forces me to move the magazines forward on the belt which means removing one of the pistol mag pouches.
Comparing the two, with the shells down,getting the magazine from the belt to the gun is more "natural" and in practice is slightly faster (typically under 2-1/4 seconds from shot to reload to shot).
My concern with carrying the mags with the shells down was leaving a trail of 12 gauge rounds as I ran downrange. So far in practice that has not happened and others indicate they have done the same with no problems.
I've also mounted the clips on a couple of AR Pmags but have not had a chance to try this out at the range. Using clips instead of mag pouches leaves a lot of real estate open on the belt.
Bill
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Also, instead of using a belt clip, has anyone glued a mag to either a safariland ELS clip or bladetech TMMS clip with the snap feature removed? That could be a slick setup for 3gun.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but that would only hook the mag over the outer belt. My clips go over both the inner and outer belt. Nice and secure and slides easily off the belt.
Bill
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I would have to use a shell stop of some sort. Where can I get one of those?
Firebird offers one that looks like it attaches to the rail on top of the upper receiver.
http://www.firebirdprecision.com/tac-12-magazines
See the Firebird Tac-12 Shell Stop
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Belt clips are what I have been using...no regrets yet. It is best to stagger the hights on the clips ( tallest in the rear, 2 clips max)
Are you running them with the top of the magazine up or down?
Thanks.
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Sorry to hear that.
A little competition has always resulted in new innovations that benefit the consumer.
Your contribution to the sport will be missed.
Bill
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Currently playing around with home made clips on the 15 rd and 10 rd magazines. I'm trying one of each held to the belt with the shells up and one of each with the shells down.
I made the clips out of 3/32" Kydex. Each piece is 3" x 6" so I get 8 clips from a 12" x 12" piece of Kydex. Heat in the oven at 325 degrees for several minutes and bend.
Until I decide which way I like the mags oriented while on my belt, I'm just using black duct tape to hold them on.
So far I like it so much that I'm going to give it a try on some Magpul mags for the AR.
Bill
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Since mine is fairly new and I'm watching for any signs of problems (like metal shavings in the upper receiver), I clean mine every 200 rds or so.
To date, I've not shot it enough before cleaning that it failed to function.
Bill
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Go to my you tube channel.
There are many shotgun stage videos. Some good some not so good.
Nice videos. Do you know if the brass catcher attached causes any problems? Is that something home built or available. It would save my back when I practice.
Bill
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You folks jogged a few brain cells. I now remember a friend from my sporting clays days had this problem with his Beretta O/U.
His solution was to lube up the choke tube, then heat up the end of the barrel with a hot air blow dryer. After seating the choke, he would heat it up a second time and give it a little more torque.
The only problem was the blow dryer was needed to get the choke loose when it came time to clean the gun. And unlike a lot of other shooters, he put in a LM and left it in.
Thanks.
Bill
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But in my case I'm concerned that the tube will work loose far enough during a single high round count stage to do some harm.
After the 15 to 20 rds, I need to rotate it about 1/16 of a full rotation to get it tight again. No telling how far it will unscrew after 30 or 40 rounds and I do not know how far it can be unscrewed before it causes problems.
Bill
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Now that I have 15 rd magazines working, I find that my chokes are working loose between 15 and 20 rds fired.
The chokes are all Carlson Extended Tubes (Winchoke). The threads are nicely lubed with Birchwood Casey Choke Lube and torqued down a bit with a Briley wrench.
The chokes are Cyl, LM and Full.
Since this is to be used for 3 gun, I don't think its a good idea to check the choke in the middle of a stage so I need to do something.
Unless there are some good ideas out there, I'm looking at the hassle of teflon tape.
So, any good ideas?
Thanks.
Bill
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Looking at the attached videos I wondered how you folks handle retrieving and grounding your magazine fed shotguns in a barrel.
With those long magazines, do they fit in the barrel? Or do you retrieve and place the gun in the barrel with no magazine in place?
Thanks for an interesting thread.
Bill
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Tromix wasn't the company I was thinking of.
Were you thinking of "Krebs Custom".
They have a YouTube video of a MKA SBS.
Question about Firebird lower receiver
in MKA-1919
Posted
At this time Firebird Precision is the only one offering an aluminum lower receiver for the MKA 1919. In the box you will also find replacement hammer and trigger pins, a new detent screw for the safety, a GI spec roll pin for the bolt stop and a cap screw that locks the upper to the lower.
In addition to the parts you mentioned, you will need the screw that holds on the pistol grip, the bolt stop and spring, the magazine latch and spring, the fire control group (trigger, disconnector, safety and hammer and springs) either from your polymer lower or from an aftermarket source. The hole in the bolt stop will need to be slightly enlarged (#37 drill bit) and the upper receiver may need to be "notched" to allow the bolt hold open to work. In my case (I used all FP parts) the hammer was a little too wide for the new lower and had to be fitted.
Bill