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Conscript

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Posts posted by Conscript

  1. I had an R6 before I upgraded to an R1. I assume it's an EFI unless you bought a mildly used '99 or something. Do you have a way to flash the ECM? I'm not a bike mechanic but sometimes the ECM will try to compensate for problems and stay shit-ily programmed thereafter, often a flash to stock will fix this. 2nd guess as mentioned above is rings. 3rd guess valves.

     

    I wouldn't try to continually spray starter fluid into it, that's not good. A compression kit will only tell you if you HAVE a problem, which you already know you do, but may be handy if you feel you've resolved it and want to verify. The next logical step for me after checking the ECM and knowing bad compression would be a leak-down test to see if it really is the rings/valves.

     

    (an afterthought) Could the head/block jacket be leaking coolant into motor hence the water or are you sure it was bad gas?

  2. I had to share this one.

     

    http://www.myfoxny.com/Story/24406063/man-crashes-into-conn-gas-station-steals-banana

     

    Man crashes into Conn. gas station, steals bananaPosted: Jan 09, 2014 7:52 AM PST Updated: Jan 09, 2014 7:54 AM PST
     
    1211001_G.JPG Connecticut News

    NEWINGTON, Conn. (AP) - Call it the case of the banana-eating bandit.

    Police in Connecticut say they're looking for a man who smashed his vehicle into a gas station in Newington, swiped a banana from a shelf and ate it before leaving early Wednesday morning. Nothing else was taken.

    The store's surveillance video shows a Ford Freestyle with Connecticut license plates backing repeatedly into the store and breaking the glass doors, which set off the burglar alarm at about 2 a.m.

    The man was gone before police arrived.

    Authorities describe him as a black man who was wearing a brown hat, dark jacket and dark pants. Police say the station wagon has damage to the driver's side taillight and rear bumper.

  3. NEITHER THE 500 LUMEN M20-X THAT I CARRY, NOR YOUR M22 WILL DROP DOWN TO A LOWER LEVEL AFTER A FEW MINUTES, AS I THINK SOMEONE SAID EARLIER, THOUGH THE OLDER 600 LUMEN VERSION OF THE M21 WITH THE XM-L LED WOULD.

     

       OLIGHT FIXED THAT WITH AN UPGRADED LED, THE XM-L2, THAT NOW RUNS AT 750 LUMENS FOR THE FULL 1.5HRS.

     

       YOU CAN GO TO BATTERYJUNCTION.COM AND CHECK THE SPECS.

     

       JESS1344

     

    This is incorrect, in 2 ways. ALL production LED flashlights have a step down circuit once they get into the higher lumens ~300+. It's just the way it is, unless you are running a heatsink fan or liquid nitrogen. The heat will destroy it.

     

    ALL the Olight M-series have a step down circuit, as verified by testers and the manufacturer. There is a variable in production bin LEDS but as I tested mine it averaged 7-8mins to step down completely, which was pretty much in line with what others had found:

    TjMGjCol.jpg

     

    It's not going to just go NOPE, BLINK. It will gradually lose intensity over about 2 mins. They have a heatsink as the only form of cooling, a modern LED throwing 960 lumens for 1.5hrs (if the components inside did not turn into a mass of molten silicon and aluminum) would fry hashbrowns.

     

    603664244_1353469507.jpg

    • Like 2
  4. Got the M22 in today.  I have no basis for comparison since this is my first higher end light but I like how it works.  The Fenix PD35 has 5 power settings and this one only has 3 but I can't really imagine the 2 extra settings being of that much use.  Also test fitted on both my S-12s....on the low rail On/Off is easy with my index finger while gripping the AFG.

     

    And true to form I'm already thinking about getting another light of some sort.  I think I'll stick with something (standardize) that uses 1 18650 cell, something around $50.

     

    ADD:  Anyone have any brand recommendations with regard to 18650 (3400mAh) batteries, Nitecore, Fenix etc.?

     

    Also, what are the practical uses of Red, Blue and Green filters?

     

    Did that kit come with a pressure switch? I didn't see one on the listing.

     

    I can't really recommend one for about $50, just whatever you do stay away from Ultrafire/Trustfire brand. Any major brand would do well, Olight, Fenix, Nitecore, Surefire (I think surefires are overrated personally and overstate lumens) Just make sure it's 18650 with the Cree LED and watertight and you'll be fine.

     

    Maybe consider a more floody light since the M22 is a long distance thrower and you'll have one of each.

     

    Colored lenses are typically for signaling, so useless in most applications. In the army some used the red lens to read maps, but I always thought this was stupid since mil maps have green and red features. Someone can probably prove me wrong or tell me why though.

  5.  

    Thank you for the info guys. Here is a picture as requested. If anyone has one similar I'd like to know what model and year-range it might be!

     

    Oszjtyn.jpg

    that knife has been sharpened a few times huh? 

     

     

    Yep, in fact I learn how to use a whetstone from him. It's older than I am thats for sure.

  6. I got a $100 Amazon Gift Card from my dear sister for Christmas.  After considering getting a $50 flashlight and a ruck/bag of some sort I decided to go ahead and spend it all on a flashlight.  I think I prefer a rechargeable and with all the different "bundles" it took some time to narrow it down.

     

    So I'm thinking this guy, thoughts?

     

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DR3WA0K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=QOGI25MFZFSC&coliid=I1SP2QESH0JGRB

     

    That flashlight is great, it was #2 on my list of favorites. I actually went with the Olight Warrior M22, reason being it has a larger heatsink and therefor can stay in "High" mode longer, and is 960 lumens. The Cree XM-U2 is the best LED out there right now. In case you didn't know, no LED driven flashlight will "run" on high for the given battery life, its usually an average of about 30 seconds to 5 minutes before it steps itself down to medium due to over heating. The PD35 is ~5 mins, the M22 is ~7 mins before step down.

  7. I have some 3/8"x6" and 1/2"x6"/12" firesteels. I'd like to make (no welding equipment) or find a handle that can solidly hold them. People usually epoxy them into wood handles but I want to be able to remove/replace/flip them around in the "chuck".

     

    I use one of these lumber crayon holders at work (http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/Images/Original/1237_71135_u1.jpg, ) and that's where I got the idea, but I cannot find one in metal. The lumber crayon holder wont hold up to the downward violent pressure, I tried.

     

    Anything off the shelf you can think of? In the case of the 1/2"x12" the handle would need to be hollow so that I can let as much out as I need and the rest can protrude through the base of the handle on the other end for all I care.

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