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About Rustler07

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  1. Okay so I took out the new setup to see how it felt and all seemed well the first run which I would have to say I felt good about the work I did. But of course there always has to be some kind of issue that presents itself. After the second outing I noticed that there was a little slop in the fore grip. So I took it apart and found that the bolt/screw that secures the fore grip to the gas block was bent into a S-shape. So I replaced the screw and inserted a spacer between the fore grip and barrel to see the would lock it down and keep the fore grip from bending the screw and the answer to that would be a big nope. The new screw was bent just as bad as the first. This time though I noticed that the ABS plastic piece I made had cracked at the first pin that holds it in the rail. So now I am not sure if the ABS broke first and allowed the fore grip to move and that was the original reason the mounting screw bent or if the screw bent and that caused the ABS to break. So back to the drawing board as the saying goes. Thinking of using the idea that the original fore grip used with the u shaped wedge. It screwed to the gas block to create tension on the fore grip to push it back into the receiver so the screw is not the only thing holding the fore grip in place. Any thoughts you may have would be great.
  2. Sorry about the bad pics on the post I fixed them
  3. Well I found this sight and decided to try it out. http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-921/CSS-TACTICAL-SAIGA-12/Detail So I have a saiga model IZ-412nm I went looking for a rail system for this gun and found that there are no rail systems that I could find that will fit this gun since the rear sight block wraps around the barrel. I decided to try my luck and see if I could make one fit. I bought the MTU002 rail model by UTG. Now I knew from the start that I would not be able to use the upper part of the rail because of the way the gas tube is setup on this gun. It was time to break out the dremel and see what kinda mess I could make. The original fore grip has a small tab of plastic the fits into the receiver which holds the back part of the grip in place and then there is the screw that secures the front piece to the gun. The MTU does not have this tab so I got a piece of ABS plastic and milled it down so it would fit in the lower section of the rail. Now that I have the plastic seated well I drilled and pinned the piece into place and started to work on grinding down the rail so it will fit the barrel. I ended up cutting the upper section of the lower rail leaving only a small section remaining. I had to do this because this part of the rail would hit the gas tube. I had to now thin the walls of the rail down. Once I got the sides of the rail ground down I then cut out sections of the lower sides to allow the rear sight band to fit You can see the upper section has been ground away quite a bit compared to the rail section just below it. After I got the fit I wanted I painted it up and put it back together. This is what it looks like all back together again. Its nice and solid and I am quite happy with the way it looks. Now just need a day off of work to run a few rounds through it to see how it handles.
  4. I ended up taking my gun to have someone look at it and he said its got some kind of epoxy on it. He gave me 2 options he would try to heat it off or cut it off, but he warned me that he did not like the finish on the barrel and was worried that the heat may cause the finish to crack and flake off, so it ended up being cut off. There was quite a lot of glue that was holding the sight in place. Even after cutting it he had to really convince the sight that it wanted to come off. There was a good amount of epoxy left on the barrel and its hard as a rock. Ended up sanding some of it down so I could put on a replacement front sight. Really wanted to keep the original sight, but the way it was mounted I figured it was the only way I could go. So I am now done cutting up the rail that will replace the original fore grip and doing some final paint work and she should be all done.
  5. Rustler07

    Saiga 12 FTF

    Its the hammer spring that bent weird (its listed as hammer spring/main spring)
  6. Rustler07

    Saiga 12 FTF

    Well I cleaned the gun and took it out again to see how it would run. Still same issue every few shots I would get a fail to fire. This time I took notice of the primer on the failed rounds and they had no mark at all. I got about 20 rounds off then the damn BHO spring came off and the gun was done for the day. So when I was taking the gun apart to fix the issue with the BHO spring I pulled the hammer and main spring out and notice the main spring/hammer spring looked odd. The arms of the spring no longer where bent the same. Now the main spring is an after market spring so like HighPlains suggested putting original parts back into the gun I put the oringinal spring back in. After all was back together I took the gun out and ran 100 rounds without any fail to fire issues. So I guess it was that aftermarket spring causing my issues. Any idea what would cause the main spring to bend like that?
  7. Rustler07

    Saiga 12 FTF

    Okay here are the rounds I have fired: Federal power shok 3" 1 1/4 oz 1600 Velrifled slug (# F131 RS) Winchester super X 2 3/4" 1325 Vel 9 pellet 00 Buck (# XB 1200) I have put the original gas plug back in and will try out the gun Tuesday to see if this fixes the fail to fire issue. Thanks for the chart but not sure how to figure out the Winchester Dram. From the chart I guess the Fed is a Dram of 5? Please understand that this stuff is all new and some of this crap like the dram I am reading on other sites is making my head spin. . I installed Carolina Shooters Modified fire control group Yes I can here the click as I slowly move the trigger forward then I squezze and the hammer releases and no fire.
  8. Rustler07

    Saiga 12 FTF

    Okay I will try that. But I have a question about what it will change. I am under the impression that the gas plug diverts some of the gas from the barrel to cycle the bolt. Since the gun cycles fine now what will changing the auto plug out do? Just curious.
  9. Rustler07

    Saiga 12 FTF

    Hello Guys, I just got my Saiga about 3 weeks ago and I am still learning the gun. I have moved the trigger group and changed the stock. I have also changed out the original gas plug with a auto plug from TAC 47. I shot Winchester buck out of it with little problems. I only had to adjust auto plug once to get it to run smooth. Today I took it out and was running Fedral slugs out of it and started to have FTF. The gun would run 3 to 4 rounds then FTF. So I went back to the Winchester buck and same thing. When I get the FTF the gun seems to fully cycle and then just a click when the trigger is squezzed. I then cycle the gun, eject failed round and it will then fire 3 to 4 more rounds before another FTF. Any ideas on why its doing this? Like I said new to this gun and any help would be greatly appreciated.
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