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Mountain Man

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Everything posted by Mountain Man

  1. It looks like it will be okay... used my nail to gauge the Dremel mark and then put it up to the muzzle, it seemed about halfway through the wall, about.
  2. So my new virtue to work on for the next year will be patience. I have been doing my first Saiga conversion on this .223 and keep going just a little to fast and hard... Just removed the FSB and GB and let my dremel slip a little to deep and notched my barrel in the GB area... I couldn't measue how deep b/c my it wouldn't come up to the first notch on the ruller but I just want to see if by the look of it I will be okay and not comprimise the integrity of the barrel? Also anyone have any tips for smoothing out nicks...hammer nicks on the barrel before I cerakote it eventually? Here are the pics:
  3. SPF Hey guys, I just picked this new RWC Saiga 7.62x39 a couple weeks ago at a local gunshop on a little bit of an impulse Since then I have been trying to pick up a new Winchester M70 in 30-06 and decided to let this one go. Has not been fired, in original packaging, tags on, and in box ready to go. Includes 10rnd mag, oil, cleaning rod, and manual. Not interested in trades for this one. PM me for any questions, thanks! Price: $500; Shipping $25; USPS Money Order or Paypal; Paypal add 3% TXT: Jordan @ (208) 618-9256
  4. I am getting close to cutting my .223 down, threading it, and pinning a PWS FSC556 (2.3in) to bring it back up to minimum length and just had a couple questions. I am planning on removing the FSB and GB and replacing them with the Venom Tactical FSGB with an ultimak railed gas tube and was wondering: If I cut it back about 2+ in. do you think I would have to enlarge the gas port? As an alternitive to enlarging the gas port, when I use the Venom Tactical FSGB that has not gas ports with the Ultimak rail with no gas ports would I maintain the correct pressures or gas levels to keep it running reliably? Is there anything else I should be thinking of aproaching this project? Thanks!
  5. I have seen fully converted ones on Armslist used for > $700. W/o the bullet guide and front end conversion you seek a lot listed for < $700 but they don't sell, $850 no way unless you find someone really afraid to try a conversion, still i don't think so. I have bought 3 Saiga .223's stock in the past few months all for around for $400 ea. I just have a thought time paying for others people's work I can do you know?
  6. I think that is what I am going to do, none of the websites that sell those talk about threading those rivet holes to fit the screws. Do they need to be threaded? I just can find what size tap I would need to use...I looked all over the web this afternoon for info but I keep getting all of the cross references for "what do I do with the rivet holes after the conversion" junk.
  7. I can't find those screws on AK builder
  8. Live and learn, yeah I won't be doing this to future conversions... Thanks for the info. I was wondering you said "The rear trunnion doesn't take a lot of force, and these screws would be very likely to ever come loose once loctited in place" I assume you mean would not be very likely to come out, right? Thanks! I am pretty compulsive, so when I finished the trigger pins and trigger guard rivets, I just did not want to stop...lol. Okay though serious question though I do have mild OCD and if I go with a screw on the SVD mount side, would I compromise the integrity it I drilled out the hole on the other side and replaced it with a screw as well. I know it seems stupid, but I have to ask. Lastly, is the front end conversion more of an aesthetic or functional conversion? Thanks!!!
  9. So I finished the step one in my first Saiga 223 conversion. Drilled the shouldered trigger pins out, as well as the trigger guard rivets, and while I was at it I removed the SVD mount, since I knew I would never want to use it and it would shave off couple ounces. It was going well till I had a "Oh Crapt moment" when I was on the last rivet and it was taking a super long time... I realized that the third rivet closest to the rear trunnion is actually serves a dual purpose and is one of the four rivets securing the rear trunnion as well... I talked to a few other people who had done the same thing and they just said you have to put on a new rivet. I know AK builder has a rivet machine for the rear trunnion put I really do not want to dish out $200. Can anyone offer some ideas on the best way to keep that rear trunnion secure and avoid a catastrophic failure...Thanks!!!
  10. Great ideas! +1 for the TWS dogleg, it is a great mounting solution. I also took off the SVD side rail to shed a few more ounces. I am trying to be as light as possible and was thinking about a primary arms red dot, it is also my economy build. I really like the idea of flip to side scope mounts, I thought those were only on the Eotech's, very cool.
  11. I have found a few good deals, $390 on my last one. I am keeping this one to 600-700 though.
  12. Do you think it would be better to try to semi-permanantly attach it or get it re-threaded?
  13. Anyone have any experience with the CNC warrior [M 14×1 LH -1/2-28 RH] adapter. Do you see any potential problems? Is there a real advantage using the .223 the PWS FSC556 over the PWS FSC47? Thread size: M 14×1 LH -1/2-28 RH Overall Length: 1.250 inches Length of body: .750 inches This adapter is intended to adapt M14x1LH muzzles with 1/2-28 RH muzzle devices. Made from top quality US steel and finished in black oxide. Mfg. by CNC Warrior Made in USA
  14. I have been looking high and low for a reliable source for Saiga .223's without a lot of luck. They occasionally pop up on gunbroker, armslist, and gunsamerica but does anyone else have a go to place to find .223's? Thanks!
  15. Sold pending funds: 7/27 I have a brand new Vepr 16" in 223 with integrated sights in the box ready to move. It is unfired with original packaging, two mags, and manual. I am looking for cash but will consider any trades! Thank you and feel free to comment and ask questions, just PM me so I can keep this thread clean for updates. Price .223: $725; Shipping: $25; USPS money order or Paypal add 3% Trades: Only looking for Saiga Rifles Saiga Rifles: 16" 223's, 21" 308, or 7.62x39's plus cash Bottom Rifle is the .223
  16. 100% Agreement with Mountain Man. I have no interest in the slant cut receivers at all. I bought one in 7.62x39 because i had no choice. My second VEPR Rifle is a 308 with a square cut receiver. I am looking at one more 308 or 7.62x54 rifle with a square cut receiver, but if there are none available, i will not buy a slant cut. Can you guys work with WPA to talk to Molot, the slantbacks are just terrible...Who the hell given the choice would prefer a rifle you need an adapter or special non standard AK stock, it just looks horrible... Damn Molot keeps making great decisions
  17. A sale for the 308 20" just started at the place you mentioned for just over $700. Holy hell, those are smoking deals, wow...
  18. Update 7/26 I am opening up this offer to specific trades as well, some models I am looking for multiple firearms in the same caliber and others just one of a certain model. Combo of firearms and cash would work too. My perfect trade would be for four unconverted Saiga .223's!!! I am not looking for models with any real accessories or mods, feel free to hold onto them. Saigas: 223's (multiple), 7.62x39 (1), .308 (1), 5.45x39. Vepr Version 01 rifles Square back only 223, 9mm ammo (no reloads)
  19. Awesome! For the Vepr rifles, please tell me that they are not switching back to the slant backs just because the don't have access to quality square back furniture... We need the Vepr Square backs!!! They sell much better than the slant backs doesn't Molot realize that???
  20. Wolf Performance Arms, the Vepr's will now be imported and distributed at a wholesale level by WPA instead for TGI (Tennessee Gun Imports) which most if not all of the newer Vepr's to date have been, notice the TGI on your Vepr 12.
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