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forsaken352

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Everything posted by forsaken352

  1. If it comes in Remington's "matte blue" finish, expect near uncontrollable rust. Cerakote is a good idea.
  2. "Borrowed" this picture from the interwebs:
  3. Can confirm. Got one on my 10/22, and it works very well. Great optic, but shitty flip covers.
  4. Congrats on the new rifle. YHM makes some pretty damn good stuff, but I'm not certain on the height issue. I know some people make railed gas blocks which are shorter and not on the same line as the upper receiver rail, but I'm not sure if they make front sights which are specifically taller for that purpose or not. Anyways, if you end up not liking the YHM sights, I've got a KAC micro 600m rear (running A2 front sight post) BUIS on mine, and I love it. Troy, Midwest, ARMS, Bravo Company (BCM), even *MaTech (rear only) all make some decent sights, as well, so worth checking out. A lot of peopl
  5. Looks to be anything that will fit a picatinny rail (MIL-STD-1913) will work.
  6. I'm assuming we're talking Saiga 12 here? If so, you could probably just get a piece of rail section and find a way to attach it to your hand guard.
  7. Saiga 12? Nothing. I like the bead sight. Saiga .308? RS Regulate AK-303 with AKR. One of, if not the most solid mount's you will find. It doesn't have a side rail for mounting lights/lasers/etc., but here's the thing about that. The further out you can mount a light, the less shadow effect you will have from your firearm, which means more illumination. Also, you won't have to deal with front sight glare. Running them from your handguard also allows ease of use (i.e. not breaking your grip to switch on). So, my suggestion would be to find a forward mounting solution. I, personally, like them t
  8. Nah. If anything, it improved his speech a little... Still can't understand a damn word, though.
  9. Poorly run business. Get your rifle, never go back. That's very stupid on his part to not at very least train his help to put the packages somewhere safe. Also, I'd think that the delivery man would've required a signature for a firearm. So, did she sign, knowing it was a firearm, and choose to just leave it there?
  10. Basically, there's an auto sear which sits in front of the hammer that prevents the hammer from dropping until the bolt is into full battery. How it works is, the safety, disconnector, hammer and carrier are all different. Starting from the back, the safety has an extra tab which contacts an extra tab at the rear of the disconnector which keeps the disconnector held out of the way (when on full auto). The hammer has a notch in the front which the auto sear sits in to prevent the hammer from falling. The carrier has an extra "leg" which contacts the auto sear (which has a tab protruding through
  11. In fact, it would not. The most you're going to get is the hammer riding the carrier home. IF it were to somehow manage firing, it would be an out of battery detonation. Not good. That's why in the automatics, there is a 3rd hole for the auto sear. Either way, us peasants don't get the giggle mode without paying out the ass, and don't forget about big brother when doing so. To the OP, not saying you were, but if you were thinking about "modifying", listen to the others. Don't.
  12. Personally, I think you got a pretty decent deal. However, you did come to a Saiga forum... Yes, I believe all are banned except for the VEPR's.
  13. Mine rubs my finger, but it doesn't bother me. Usually I just put my finger a little lower on the trigger bow. A lot of people trim the BHO, though, to make it a little shorter. Others round them some. Never had an issue with mine.
  14. I can give it another try, but I've been giving it sharp raps with the mallets perpendicular to the bore as well as parallel. I'm sure I've got some PB blaster laying around, but one thing I really need to know is, how much force can be applied to the barrel before possibly experiencing some bad juju, especially if I'm applying a lot of torque? Appreciate the help, guys.
  15. Certainly would seem like them bastards are still in there, but, yes. I did. That's kind of how I've been looking for any movement, too. By looking through the pin holes, you can clearly see that they are perfectly aligned still, after all that abuse I've given it. I could punch those pins right back into place, it's moved that little, if at all.
  16. What's the deal with Carson? Wasn't he kind of anti-gun at one point, or am I mistaken?
  17. Shit, Trump. A single handgun? If I had what he had, I'd be rockin' a damn battleship loaded down with NFA toys.
  18. So, I've been on and off working on removing my FSB from my .308 to thread the muzzle, and I'm completely out of options, except for maybe one. I've tried everything recommended by others to remove it. It will NOT move. Period. I've tossed at it plastic mallets, rubber mallets, hammer and 2x4, 20 ton press (even made special press plates to sit behind the FSB), heat, heat after freeze (focusing heat on just the FSB after freeze), even tried at one point for the hell of it an air chisel with a brass punch chucked up into it. Nothing. I don't understand it, and I'm worried about bending the barr
  19. Please do. It's easily within my top 5 shotgun's list. Most likely within the top 3. I agree with the above, though. Add a signature of some sort.
  20. First, if I might make a suggestion, build your upper receiver yourself. Even if you have to purchase tools, you will have them from then on. You will get to pick and choose what you want on it rather than buying a pre-made upper, and possibly switching parts later. Secondly, if it were me, I would probably go as low as 50gr. with a 1/8, but I don't know about 40. Some people claim it works fine for them, but faster twist rates are better suited for heavier bullets. Third, Vortex is a great company. I don't have experience with the Crossfire, but I have a Sparc 2 from them, and even for a litt
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