[What size thread is on the handguard retainer?]

Measured it to be 4.77mm x 60 TPI. Probably extra fine designation and only Molot could tell us what the thread pitch is. I left my forestock attached as designed

and added another swivel. Didn't want to compromise the strength of this joint.

[SuperVepr 223]

I just so happened to be in Cabels's looking for gun cleaning stuff when I crossed paths with a preowned Vepr Super 223 in the Gun Library Room. It was equipped with

the factory scope mount and was priced a little over $1000 which they gave me 10% off when I purchased it. It seems to be a well made rifle except the sling swivels

which are not the best but some of the worst I've seen. They are too narrow and won't accommodate a 1" or 1 1/4" wide sling. Have not shot the carbine yet but it

looks to be a fine shooter. Purchased a Nikon P223 tactical scope designed for this caliber and felt a 3x magnification was adequate for 100-200 yards distance. Did

not want to spend more on the scope. See my postings for pics and details regarding converting to a standard rifle sling size.

2ndAmmendLVR2014

[Vepr Super Issues and Fixes Thread]

Unfortunately, I've never tapped or re-tapped anything in my life (well, I have tapped some... you know what ). I've used self-tapping screws on plastic stocks though. So, would I need to precisely measure a swivel lug of my choice, then drill a hole like one size smaller and then use the right size "tap"? What are all the measurements that I would need?

 

 

 

Take out the sling screw and take it to a Lowes. In the fastener section they should have a board that you can screw it into that will tell you the size and pitch of the thread. If the VEPRs are consistent with other Russian rifes, it will be a common metric thread. This will at least let you know what you have to match.

 

The sling stud screws that they tried to sell you are for screwing into a wood stock. They also make ones that have a machined thread. Uncle Mikes and ATI both make the machined version. Chances are that they will both be standard as opposed to metric, but it is a start. If you have to redrill and tap, it is very easy. If you can work a drill and a screwdriver, you can drill and re-tap in less than 10 minutes.

 

Hello Spacehog,

 

Since I work for Lowe's H.I. in the Hardware Department I can tell you that we don't have any thread gauges that will match the extra fine thread pitch on this Russian machine screw in the

forestock/barrel/swivel assembly of the VEPR SUPER 223 carbine. And no, this steel is more than likely flame or case hardened which means that re-tapping it will be very difficult. It may

even break the tap. And you will not be able to tap to the full depth of the hole because of the how male taps are designed. I started out with the wood thread swivel studs and can enlarge them to a machine screw/nut combo if the wood thread studs fail to hold. The machine screw provided in Uncle Mike's swivel set is a #10 diameter, 32 TPI Unified National Fine (UNF) thread

which is very common. I would leave the factory fitting and screw in place and add another swivel as I did. In so doing you won't weaken the design for securing the barrel to the stock.

Check out my posts #17,18,19 and #20

2ndAmmendLVR2014

[Vepr Super Issues and Fixes Thread]

Hello SpetsnazGRU:

 

I feel your pain regarding the rifle sling issue and the totally inadequate factory swivels designed to fail. Take a look at my postings and see how I remedied the pro

blem. I searched high and low thru many websites trying to find someone who sells a 3/4" or 7/8" wide sling to work with the existing swivels. Found not one. Shame

I had to modify this high dollar rifle but it is what it is and I decided I wasn't going to live with a poor design. The strongest, simplest, and cheapest way to over-

come this problem is to change the studs to agree with those swivels sold in the U.S.. Then you can put any sling on you desire. Remember to check BEFORE you drill

that the drill bit is 90 degrees to the edge of the forestock and butt stock in both directions---from the side and looking down the center axis of the stock.

2ndAmmendLVR2014

[Vepr Super Issues and Fixes Thread]

This is what the VEPR SUPER 223 barrel mount looks like when removed from the stock. A #10-32 UNF machine screw is very close to the Russian 5mmx60THD/IN machine

screw but the area that would require re-tapping for the new thread might be hardened and prove to complicate the process. The sides are very thin also and might not

remain intact. The inletting in this area is oval or round and I used 2 inches as my distance from the edge of the factory slot in the stock to the center of my swivel

stud hole.

[Vepr Super Issues and Fixes Thread]

[Vepr Super Issues and Fixes Thread]

The way I got around this issue of only using the crappy swivels on the Vepr Super 223 that I own is to mount Uncle Mike's Quick Detachable Bases #2520-0 with the 1/2" and 3/4"  long wood screw studs and leave the forestock with the 5mm 60 thd/in screw as is.  It is needed to secure the end of the barrel to the stock.  No, I chose not to retap it even though a 10/32 UNF screw might just work.  The metal is very thin on the sides and I didn't want to risk fracturing this stub in the process.  On the back end of the stock I went to www.woodcraft.com and purchased some 3/8" dia Walnut wood plugs, (part no. 17P11) and epoxied it in place using System Three T-88 Epoxy also purchased at Woodcraft.com.  Be sure to tamp the epoxy down into the existing screw hole and then cover the sides of the plug and upper sides of the hole with epoxy also  where it will bond to.  It takes overnight for this epoxy to cure but I gave it 2 days so there would be no problems when I redrilled it with Uncle Mike's Swivel Installation Step Drill Set #2552-0.  Be sure to use the smaller diameter step drill for drilling the root diameter of the 1/2" dia swivel stud which I used on the foregrip .  Measure with a vernier calipers (buy at Lowe's Home Improvement) to be sure.  The 1/2" long swivel stud

will work on the forestock without any modifications to the stud ie. shortening it as it will not come in contact with the barrel when installed in the stock.  The only problem I really encountered in this is that I could not reinstall my trigger safety after I removed it inorder to remove the entire receiver/barrel assembly from the stock.  So I just put some black plastic plugs for 1/4" dia holes in them.  Who needs a safety anyway, if the gun is always loaded and handled accordingly.  A safety is a false sense of security. One last thing, be sure to put some liquid dish washing soap on the stud threads when you install them.  It lubricates the threads and makes the swivel much easier to twist into the stock.  The distance I used was 2" from the opening in the stock for the factory front swivel to the new location of the new swivel. The most critical time

in installing swivel studs is at the very beginning. Concentrate on keeping the center axis of the stud inline with the centerline axis of the hole and turn it very slowly

while applying medium downward pressure. Use a pin punch or small screwdriver thru the stud swivel hole to help apply the torque needed to get it to begin to thread in. Ex-

ercise patience and don't get in a hurry. In the end, you will have swivels studs that will like like they were put in at the factory.