Wagnikov

Stellar guy, top notch parts. All Dinzag. Bayo lug/FSB/Brake. Only thing cooler than an s12, is an s12 that looks like it's ak cousin AND a bayonet!

Most excellent. That provides me with everything I need. Should be able to reproduce anything I don't have now. Well worth the wait. Thanks a million HPD.

As a matter of Fact that's where I first put a "spark." Worked very well because it is quite narrow that it doesn't get hit by the ejecting shells. 200$. lifetime no questions warranty. For aks they work great. I think the only thing the aim point has on it is battey life. It has two NV modes if needed also. Also in reference to the v12 I felt ok since it very light weight, so no concerns of cracking the high quality plastic top rail! Lol.

I have had very good success with the vortex spark 2. Sits low enough to see the front sight post in the bottom of the optics. I have mine on a parabellum mount.

Magwell man here, else I woulda snagged the suckers!

Good deal for somebody!

Yes the carolina shooters supply puck. It has an extra boss on it. It has been discussed and approved to flip around backwards to take up some slack in the op rod. You need to double check and make DAMN sure the bolt carrier contacts the top left side of the front trunnion. You DO NOT want the puck/op rod holding the bolt/carrier slightly out of battery. If you unscrew the gas plug and the carrier moves you have issues. Typically what I do is assemble without the gas plug, then slowly screw it in until the carrier moves. You can the. Measure the base of the gas plug-front of gas block and cal

Welcome to the forums madjack! I enjoyed the challenge of making it work. The 20ga has the pickiest thus far out of all my saiga's. But I think I will start looking for a long barreled s20 to suck all the goodie out of the power for deer hunting. Again welcome, and ask any questions you can think of, we need the traffic in the s20 section.

Like the picture "exposure." Do you have prob with the heat of the barrel on the front sling?

Bahahaha! Well played GF

Ordered one last night. Should be in later this week. I'll sight it in next weekend. It's cheap enough option, worth a try. It has attractive features on paper, see how it does in real life.

I'm really impressed the that saiga 12 forums are open and progressive enough, that we can feel free to speak about coming out of the closet! If squirrels can be gay, I suppose metal can be too.

You can knock the pins out, and remove the fsb. Modify it and the reinstall how you like. It's not a military fsb, so it doesn't have the bayo lug either. Unless you already have the die/tat/die handle you will still be spending money,but, if you want 14mm threads, then you want 14mm threads. So to answer your question, yes it can be removed and reinstalled. You can also drill it for the detent, assuming you have the tools/skill set/dimensions/and hardware to do so. Just last week I decided to order a true Russian military fsb from Legion. It already threaded and quick install. There is a risk

Thank you for the reply.

Thank you sir. If your willing, a picture of the disassembled parts would be very helpful. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm excited to finish this thing, and get it cerakoted. Thank you

I don't have a dog in this fight. But it would seem iced up cartridges would slide on the plastic and "Christmas story" to the metal mag. Steel mag would be below freezing first, cartridges would cool down second and sweat. That sweat would freeze to the metal mag sides and not so much the polymer. I seriously doubt it's a thermal expansion mag issue. It's .000006 of an in/per in/ per degree of temperature. I say ak mags(world renowned reliability) are steel.

Mine is .631 gonna order tat/die/break tonigh. Looks like I'm stuck with 5/8 x 24. Per Dinzag If I don't screw something up, I may sell this set when I'm done. Pm me if your interested.

Don't need to heat it up much to get the expansion of the metal. If paint is dulling or smoking that's hotter than you need. Yes as said smacking it sideways helps a lot. It takes sharp fast blows not heavy slow ones. Just took mine off today and moved back. It was about as tight as an s12. The 7.62x39 saiga fsb has my hardest one so far. Just never know. Also along with the quick crack of the mallet. It's imperative to have the gun as rigidly supports as possible. Good luck. Trying to get this puppy ready for the hog hunt!

It's only "original" because I don't know what the hell I'm doing!! I "Brian Williams" that "which side of die" I just look for the tapered side. But once we got to talking about it, it seems they read "size" on one side and "start other side" on the other. Lol I hope this adds to your thread, since I'm dragging it a bit off center.

I just finished relocating the fsb on my .308. Gonna order die and tat tonight. Wish me luck too! Lol I may do a real short vid of threading job, I think this one will be a breeze. The muzzle has a long gentle taper on it, so I think it's gonna start real nice. Was laser bore sighing the fsb to get it strait, but it's less than 20yards in the longest part of my house.

What barrel of od does that work on

This is the vice I got from harbor freight.

I have been wrong before. Lol. most of the time there is a more tapered side, and an abrupt side. The tapered side is the starter side. It helps to cut some of the material out of the way that is not needed for the threads. If all checks out. You could simply be rocking the die as you turn and stripping the new threads of. Also it dose take a lot of pressure towards the muzzle until you get two or three threads started. If your barrel is under .570, and you have the correct die in good shape, then it's just that your not pushing hard enough down while smoothly and squarely turning the die hand

I have found it helpful to slightly taper the end of the barrel to help the die start. Per Dinzag

We can do the math and get .563 but something is rounded in doing so. If this is an acceptable OD, does the die say "start this side" or something similar. If it is not labeled as such, typically you would cut threads on from the side opposite that reads the size.