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About ElHuron

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    Los Angeles, California, Unfortunately
  1. If anyone comes across a Match barrel for a reasonable price id like to buy it. Mine was threaded off center and the choke sticks into the bore a bit i havent even fired it just in case a wad or something gets caught. Im stuck in cali and cant send it out for warranty work.
  2. DO NOT touch the gas ports anymore. Your issue is somewhere else. I've had and have a Saiga 12 with smaller and obscured ports that cycles walmart bulk on both settings with the stock puck and gas selector, springs, hammer, no polishing, and no lube. I rewelded the original trigger and used it also. Make sure whatever rail or handguard you have on there doesnt block the gas block vent. That could slow down the puck enought to cause a failure. Hand cycling doesnt say much since the carrier is forced straight back during operation and you can feel the op rod rubbing inside the gas tube if you hand cycle the carrier. Drum magazines have a higher tension and can also slow the carrier down. Im almost sure it is going to be that Tapco FCG that is causing the failures. No matter how much you polish, the tapco trigger holds the hammer higher and adds resistance to the carrier when the gun cycles. If your gun was barely able to cycled low brass out of the box, the added resistance and incorrect hammer geometry can and will cause problems. Polishing helps cut down that resistance. Some get lucky using an AKM style FCG like the Tapco, others dont. You may not want to hear it but put back all the stock gas system parts and work from there. The only drastic thing you should be doing is looking for a replacement barrel to anticipate the metal between the ports cracking. I have a Vepr FCG id be willing to give you to try if you pay for shipping.
  3. I believe 3/16 screws are obsolete and were replaced with 10-XX screws. The closest size which is a 10-32 screw requires a number 21 (.1590) drill bit which is way undersize since your hole is already at 3/16 (.1875). No screw in the 10-XX to 12-XX would work. Your best bet would be to go up to a 1/4-20 machine screw which uses a #7 drill (.2010) Another option is to use a metric screw with a drill size closest to your existing hole. Another option is to use a rivet inserted from the bottom of the trunnion and bucking plates to fill the space between the trunnion and the receiver. Then crush the rivet from the top. Another not so good option is to weld the bullet guide in. Im sure there are other options but this is what i can think of. Hope this helps
  4. Ive switched a few different Saiga 12 bolts and carriers between guns and this has been my experience. While some rotate into battery and headspace fine with gauges, it is the cam on the bolt and the cam cutout on the carrier that can cause issues when using mismatched bolts and carriers. Then there are the bolts that do not even rotate into battery in other guns other than the original because the barrel hood has an angled edge that initiates bolt rotation and the barrel hood is different lengths in different guns. Same with gas blocks. Some come off with a few taps from a mallet, others take a 20 ton press and heat. Keep this one the way it is.
  5. Small update: Got the ALG AK trigger in and took a good amount of modification to fit. The hump on the hammer had to be milled down to clear the ejector block (like most tapco hammers) and the trigger hook was too tall which kept the carrier from cycling so it also had to be milled down a bit. When everything was said and done the trigger pull was rediculously light. Sub 3lbs with a well worn hammer spring is WAY too light for my taste so its not going to be used.
  6. Cheek weld was too high with the ar stock adapter to use irons and Dinzag is out of his RSB so i decided to take a different direction. Before: Now, almost done : Specs: 2013 Saiga 12 18.5" barrel 4 ports all different sizes TiN gas puck Ak Builder trigger guard, selector stop, and grip plate Magpul Moe AK stock, grip and M-Lok MVG Russian grip nut CSS FCG reatiner late U.S mag spring Arsenal hammer and sear Rewelded oem trigger Need: FCG to be replaced with ALG AK trigger to be able to use all mags. Dinzag RSB and Elevated Front Sight
  7. It's the akbuilder trigger guard, selector stop, and reinforcement plate. Thanks for the compliment.
  8. Had some issues with porosity in my tig welds due to a regulator leak but after a quick blast it's starting to look like something. Flattened trigger guard rivets with a ground down bolt and akbuilder rivet jig base Original style anti-slap rivet Original trigger cut, reshaped, and welded
  9. I cant really comment on it having never seen or used one but if you search for some images of it mounted it will give you an idea of how it "sits" on the gun, almost blocking the trigger for a right handed person. Also im not 100% sure but it looks like its plastic. You get what you pay for but YMMV.
  10. Bolt on, no cutting of tang required. Although i will say having seen a friends rifle with one on it does look a bit out of place sticking out the back. Not my picture:
  11. Have you considered an external adapter block with a hinge? Can be a bit pricey depending on the stock used. Theres also the Magpul Zhukov stock. Folds to the right BUT, clears the charging handle. Not avaliable yet but i dont see why it wouldnt fit the Saiga 12.
  12. ElHuron


    what happened to the muzzle end?
  13. Im looking to buy a Saiga 7.62x39 barrel or barrel assembly, non threaded 16", preferably with a low round count and no stepped chamber. Also looking for an AK100 series front sight, gas block and possibly a type 4 trigger. I am building a 100 clone and while i have Bulgarian parts on hand id like to use Russian parts. Willing to pay a reasonable price.
  14. Press out the original barrel and gas block, keep the 24 incher or sell it, and replace it with a new U.S made 18" one from ICCMFG <Link Removed>
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