rsteciak

Having just finished my first full conversion (today), I have to admit that I like the traditional look to keep it AK like. Used an IWD walnut set of furniture. Many thanks to several on this forum for helping me manuver through this. Special thanks to Brian at Dinzag Arms for helping me with the upper handguard installation:

That was the same reason I got one, to keep it loaded with some hot ammo, just in case...

Ok. Will have to give this some more thought. I'll mainly use this on the range since I have plenty of other guns for other purposes. Also just picked up my first ((10)) mag for one of my pre-ban AKs and now see why they're considered top shelf. But they are not cheap, for sure. Thanks for the info.

Just about finished with my first full conversion and trying to decide whether to install the bullet guide I bought from CSS or just stick with the 3 Saiga 10 round mags I have. My question is will the Saiga mags still work if I do the bullet guide install and grind down the mag release? I've heard they "might" work.

that's the good part of my experience with HF stuff. most of it is cheap enough that once it self destructs, I just throw it away. haven't bought anything there on the pricier side except for their wire flux welder that has worked pretty well for the small stuff I need it for. I agree that there's not much comparison to Craftsman. I have lots of that stuff and most of it has lasted for years.

fully agree that you can't beat the deals at HF and the quality of most of their stuff is considerably better than what some "tool snobs" like to admit. I'll check out the presses next time I get a coupon.

Funny, I was just at HF last night and walked right past these. I guess I'll put one on my shopping list for my next Saiga project.

Don't really know anything about the kind of press you're referencing. I'm building my workshop out more all the time so another tool that helps make like easier is a good idea to me. Would appreciate any info since I may do more Saigas down the road. Thx.

I couldn't get my factory FSB off either by whacking it after taking out the pins. Like you, I ended up having to cut it horizontally with a dremel. I thought that since it was unthreaded it would slide off, but no way. Now that I've done it once, I think this is the way I'll have to do it for future conversions, too. I do like the Bulgy set-up. Amazing how much better it looks than the factory FSB.

Have a good supply of quality drill bits. I ended up going with 1/8" to get the original factory FSB pins to fit back in.

Good idea to start with a smaller bit first. I'll work up to 1/8, if needed. I've got plenty of bits and a decent drill press. My factory FSB seemed pretty straight so I'll try lining up the existing barrel notches and see how it goes. Can always drill new notches that bring it flush to the muzzle end, if things don't work out. Had to do a bit of fitting to get the FSB onto the barrel but the notches lined up perfectly so the site is nice and straight.

Yes, the factory FSB on my 2013 model was pinned without any dimples and the barrel slots do appear to line up with the soon to be drilled holes on the Bulgy FSB. Since that's the case, I'll like to use the existing barrel notches vs cutting into the barrel. I've read on some other posts that this protrusion of the muzzle is not a problem but just wanted to check. It appears that it won't interfere with the 74 style muzzle brake. I'll find out soon and let you know. I think using the existing barrel notches will help to prevent my putting the FSB off-center and end up with a canted sit

I'll try to 1/8" bit on my press and see how it goes. As I've heard mentioned before, it seems that if I line up the notches on the barrel with the pin locations on the FSB, I'll end up having the barrel protrude about an 1/8" beyond the FSB. I assume that's normal with this set-up?

So I got my Bulgy 74 style FSB and brake from K-Var today. The parts look pretty good but I was surprised to see that the FSB is not drilled for the pins. I need some help with the following: What size bit do I need to match up with the pins that I bought with the FSB? I assume I'll be drilling from the "dimple" side of the FSB (shown below)? Anything else I should do to make sure I set this up right? Thx.

Yeah, my club likes us to keep the action open when we're all downrange setting up targets. Even though it's mostly fairly seasoned members, there's always someone who seems to keep a loaded weapon on the bench pointed downrange with just the safety on (maybe)...